• STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

What's the weave of this fabric?

robert in LA

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2009
Messages
74
Reaction score
4
Some people would think of that as one of the 'nailhead' weaves. The fabric tends to be heavy, with the exposed second color as a mid-weave between the top and bottom layers. Like traditional Harris Tweeds, nailheads were more common one hundred years ago, in colder climates, and before central heating worked as well as it does now. In this century nailhead weaves are more common as upholstery fabrics. On this specific garment, in the photo, the fabric us is cut on the bias, probably with the intention of allowing the thick fabric to drape better, and follow the form of the wearer more closely.
 

robert in LA

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2009
Messages
74
Reaction score
4
Commissioned this jacket recently, curious what the weave should be called? Hopsack?

https://hallmadden.com/loro-piana-giacche-ss18/3g8hclng5ry4jpj8edy34bzaidzf8l

View attachment 965878
Here is example of Hopsack weave, (URL below), and the pattern you get is orthogonal, like a 'nailhead' but if you look closely, you will see, I think, that there is no mid-weave, or intermediate layer: the layer of contrasting color thread gives a nail head pattern the distinctive pattern. I think that a lot of people would call the fabric you chose for your jacket a 'nail head'. What is perhaps unusual about your jacket is that the fabric is cut 'on the bias'. The cloth is cut so that the warp and weft of the weave run at a 45 degree angle to the vertical. This is done when the tailor wants to emphasize drape in the fabric. In similar jackets, in prior decades, more structure would have been desired and the warp would be vertical.

You chose a lovely fabric by the way. I enjoy seeing these weaves from past decades being brought forward, in modern fabrics, that are lighter weight, are more flexible and slightly elastic.

https://www.huddersfieldfinefabrics.com/soft-hopsack-weave-tweed-fabric--ab31-696-p.asp
 
Last edited:

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

How did Covid-19 impact your personal style?

  • My style hasn't changed at all.

  • My wardrobe hasn't changed but I am wearing casual clothes more often.

  • I invested in new good quality leisure and casual clothes.

  • I invested in new sartorial clothes taking advantage of the sales.

  • I purged my closet during quarantine and I have nothing left to wear.


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
444,529
Messages
9,608,280
Members
200,884
Latest member
hurrella
Top