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Here is example of Hopsack weave, (URL below), and the pattern you get is orthogonal, like a 'nailhead' but if you look closely, you will see, I think, that there is no mid-weave, or intermediate layer: the layer of contrasting color thread gives a nail head pattern the distinctive pattern. I think that a lot of people would call the fabric you chose for your jacket a 'nail head'. What is perhaps unusual about your jacket is that the fabric is cut 'on the bias'. The cloth is cut so that the warp and weft of the weave run at a 45 degree angle to the vertical. This is done when the tailor wants to emphasize drape in the fabric. In similar jackets, in prior decades, more structure would have been desired and the warp would be vertical.Commissioned this jacket recently, curious what the weave should be called? Hopsack?
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