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What type of fabric should I spend more on?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by kolecho, Jan 31, 2005.

  1. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

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    If given a choice, should I spend more on suits in solid navy/charcoal OR pinstripes/windowpane suits?

    What is the rationale?
     


  2. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    Depends on your current wardrobe. If you have a number of solids already, then stripes/windowpanes/checks. Otherwise, it's always good to build that base first. I do think a mix is important.
     


  3. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

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    Actually, I was thinking that one should pay a bit more for solid suit fabric because:

    - they are staples and will not go out of fashion;
    - and also that a better quality fabric is probably more necessary to differentiate a solid-coloured suit from the sea of other other similar suits out there.

    Any opinions?
     


  4. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Spend more on the ones you will wear more. That should be your rule of thumb. You can tell a cheap fabric whether it is a pattern or a solid. I didn't think it was true until I discovered it was true. [​IMG]
     


  5. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Senior member

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    To jn3's comments, I would add that you should make sure that the suits you will wear the most are made from the most durable materials, not just the most expensive. There are some very expensive fabrics that are too fragile for a "heavy rotation" suit.

    One thought on "standing out from the crowd." Assuming that you aren't getting bargain basement fabrics, in the long run the quality of the construction is more important than the quality of the fabric. I built my first business wardrobe with several fused suits from a shop in LA that sells fused made-in-Spain garments made of pretty good fabrics, including a lot of Vitale Barberis Canonico super 110s/120s. Those suits do not look as good as my WW Chan suits made from VBC fabrics, because the lapels don't roll as nicely and the coat just generally doesn't drape the same. They also haven't held up as well as my WW Chan suits.
     


  6. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Yes, yes, yes. For basics, go with 120s or 130s tops. I like the VBC fabrics a lot, BTW, Retro. Don't go too fine a fabric, or too shiny. Depending on your climate, a nice brushed 3 season fabric may be the way to go.

    But I agree with Retro that construction does improve appearance -- a good fabric can be ruined by poor construction. So, go full canvas even if that means choosing a less expensive fabric. Though you might not be able to tell a canvas suit by sight yet, you will soon be able to.

    In addition, what makes a plain suit stand out besides construction is the cut. A nice style -- good button stance, modern lapel notches, good waist suppression (this is more a job for the alterations man/woman, to be honest), high armholes, nice vent (I prefer double) -- will take you far above the crowd.
     


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