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What type of cuff for a 3-piece pinstripe?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by linux_pro, Feb 3, 2005.

  1. linux_pro

    linux_pro Senior Member

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    Hello,

    I'm picking up a 3-piece pinstripe suit (single breasted, 3 buttons) tomorrow and am wondering how I should have the paints tailored. I'm not sure if I should have the pants cuffed, or if that would be too much. Should I go straight-leg (or whatever it's called when the pant leg is just hemmed at the bottom without any cuff), or cuffed? Would having it cuffed be getting carried away?

    Thanks in advance.
     


  2. linux_pro

    linux_pro Senior Member

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    Hey, thanks for the feedback. Maybe I'll get 'em cuffed. My girlfriend says uncuffed would look more stylish or modern, so I'm really unsure. I used to have all my slacks cuffed, because I kind of like that Cary Grant 40's look. Heh heh. Anyway... Still unsure.
     


  3. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Distinguished Member

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    If the pants are flat front, I think most people would advise you to go without cuffs.

    If they are pleated, cuffs are at your option. I always cuff my pleated suit pants. I think it is a more finished look, and the added weight at the bottom of the trouser keeps them from flapping around at the ankles.

    I think that cuffs are viewed as more formal, but an argument can be made the other way: the pants for a tuxedo are not cuffed, and isn't a tuxedo the epitome of a formal suit?
     


  4. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Cuffs are actually slightly less formal.  But they are a nice touch.  Unless you're really short, or really mod, get cuffs.  mack11211 is right that their width depends on your height.

    When it comes to men's clothes, the advice of girlfriends and women generally (but not you, Fabienne.) should be taken with a shaker of salt.
     


  5. NoVaguy

    NoVaguy Distinguished Member

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    I would get them cuffed if the pants are pleated, and with no cuffs if the pants are plain-fronted. The height of the cuffs depends on your actual height.
     


  6. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Distinguished Member

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    i think the height of the cuffs should have more to do with the length of your legs, regardless of your height. if you have short legs in proportion to the rest of you, go without cuffs or go with 1.25".
     


  7. linux_pro

    linux_pro Senior Member

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    What great advice. I knew I had struck gold when I stumbled upon this forum. Especially after reading some bizarre post about two Saville Row tailors bashing each other on their blogs. How bizarre and hilarious.

    Anyway, thanks for all the great feedback guys. Cuffed it is. I love cuffed slacks anyway. I have one pair uncuffed, and they do flap around a bit, and I find that annoying. It's like I'm wearing bell bottoms or something.
     


  8. Steve B.

    Steve B. Go Spurs Go

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    I'd also disagree with MP about cuff width vs. leg length. I have pretty short legs in proportion to my arms, and think the wider cuffs look better.
     


  9. STYLESTUDENT

    STYLESTUDENT Distinguished Member

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    I always thought that the cuff width should be 1 5/8" if you're shorter than, say, 5'10" and 1.75" if taller.
     


  10. benchan

    benchan Senior Member

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    Well, when some mags start suggesting people to purchase flat-front pants without cuffs, most people start thinking that pleats+cuffs = old+ not stylish. This simply ain't true. Quite a few Italian suitmakers have their models wear trousers with 2 inches+ cuff. If you are shorter, then of coz you have to adjsut the length accordingly.

    One advice I like to add is that if the legs of the trousers are tapered, go with cuffs; if straight leg, then no cuff is a better option.
     


  11. boston

    boston Senior Member

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    you should cuff the pants, 1.25 inches. Make sure you wear the shoes you usually intend to wear them with so you get the break right.

    -boston
     


  12. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    Small (1.25")cuffs look ridiculous, IMO. Use the rule Stylestudent posted, even if you have to push your tailor to do it. I don't know why, but some truly believe in the tiny cuff.
     


  13. jester

    jester Senior Member

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    Yes to cuffs, as (almost) everyone has said.

    If this were a slim-cut maroon sharkskin suit, that would be one thing, but a three-piece pinstripe? There's just no question.
     


  14. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Distinguished Member

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    I have one pair uncuffed, and they do flap around a bit, and I find that annoying. It's like I'm wearing bell bottoms or something.
    A tailor should be able to put a strip of fabric on the inside of the leg, near the hem. This will help give uncuffed pants the weight of a cuff, and keep them from flapping around.
    Can you clarify where this stip goes please? I have a number of pants which came with it in the back pocket and tailors have been a bit clueless as to what it is and where it goes. Thanks.
     


  15. Sevcom

    Sevcom Senior Member

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    It's generally a strip of canvas the tailor will sew into the inside of the trouser leg, around the bottom. Works well at keeping uncuffed bottoms nice and weighted.

    As to the original question, whichever you feel like, though like some other posters, I'd go 1.5" or nothing. Probably the latter.
     


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