1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

What type of cuff for a 3-piece pinstripe?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by linux_pro, Feb 3, 2005.

  1. linux_pro

    linux_pro Senior member

    Messages:
    551
    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2005
    Hello,

    I'm picking up a 3-piece pinstripe suit (single breasted, 3 buttons) tomorrow and am wondering how I should have the paints tailored. I'm not sure if I should have the pants cuffed, or if that would be too much. Should I go straight-leg (or whatever it's called when the pant leg is just hemmed at the bottom without any cuff), or cuffed? Would having it cuffed be getting carried away?

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. linux_pro

    linux_pro Senior member

    Messages:
    551
    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2005
    Hey, thanks for the feedback. Maybe I'll get 'em cuffed. My girlfriend says uncuffed would look more stylish or modern, so I'm really unsure. I used to have all my slacks cuffed, because I kind of like that Cary Grant 40's look. Heh heh. Anyway... Still unsure.
     
  3. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Senior member

    Messages:
    1,645
    Joined:
    May 5, 2004
    If the pants are flat front, I think most people would advise you to go without cuffs.

    If they are pleated, cuffs are at your option. I always cuff my pleated suit pants. I think it is a more finished look, and the added weight at the bottom of the trouser keeps them from flapping around at the ankles.

    I think that cuffs are viewed as more formal, but an argument can be made the other way: the pants for a tuxedo are not cuffed, and isn't a tuxedo the epitome of a formal suit?
     
  4. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,568
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    Cuffs are actually slightly less formal.  But they are a nice touch.  Unless you're really short, or really mod, get cuffs.  mack11211 is right that their width depends on your height.

    When it comes to men's clothes, the advice of girlfriends and women generally (but not you, Fabienne.) should be taken with a shaker of salt.
     
  5. NoVaguy

    NoVaguy Senior member

    Messages:
    6,529
    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2004
    Location:
    Guv'mintFlunkyLand
    I would get them cuffed if the pants are pleated, and with no cuffs if the pants are plain-fronted. The height of the cuffs depends on your actual height.
     
  6. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Senior member

    Messages:
    4,458
    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2003
    i think the height of the cuffs should have more to do with the length of your legs, regardless of your height. if you have short legs in proportion to the rest of you, go without cuffs or go with 1.25".
     
  7. linux_pro

    linux_pro Senior member

    Messages:
    551
    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2005
    What great advice. I knew I had struck gold when I stumbled upon this forum. Especially after reading some bizarre post about two Saville Row tailors bashing each other on their blogs. How bizarre and hilarious.

    Anyway, thanks for all the great feedback guys. Cuffed it is. I love cuffed slacks anyway. I have one pair uncuffed, and they do flap around a bit, and I find that annoying. It's like I'm wearing bell bottoms or something.
     
  8. Steve B.

    Steve B. Senior member

    Messages:
    10,273
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2002
    Location:
    San Antonio
    I'd also disagree with MP about cuff width vs. leg length. I have pretty short legs in proportion to my arms, and think the wider cuffs look better.
     
  9. STYLESTUDENT

    STYLESTUDENT Senior member

    Messages:
    1,140
    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2004
    Location:
    SE Michigan (frequent NYC visitor)
    I always thought that the cuff width should be 1 5/8" if you're shorter than, say, 5'10" and 1.75" if taller.
     
  10. benchan

    benchan Senior member

    Messages:
    329
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    Well, when some mags start suggesting people to purchase flat-front pants without cuffs, most people start thinking that pleats+cuffs = old+ not stylish. This simply ain't true. Quite a few Italian suitmakers have their models wear trousers with 2 inches+ cuff. If you are shorter, then of coz you have to adjsut the length accordingly.

    One advice I like to add is that if the legs of the trousers are tapered, go with cuffs; if straight leg, then no cuff is a better option.
     
  11. boston

    boston Senior member

    Messages:
    127
    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2005
    you should cuff the pants, 1.25 inches. Make sure you wear the shoes you usually intend to wear them with so you get the break right.

    -boston
     
  12. j

    j Senior member Admin

    Messages:
    14,914
    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2002
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    Small (1.25")cuffs look ridiculous, IMO. Use the rule Stylestudent posted, even if you have to push your tailor to do it. I don't know why, but some truly believe in the tiny cuff.
     
  13. jester

    jester Senior member

    Messages:
    184
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    Location:
    New York, NY
    Yes to cuffs, as (almost) everyone has said.

    If this were a slim-cut maroon sharkskin suit, that would be one thing, but a three-piece pinstripe? There's just no question.
     
  14. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

    Messages:
    9,452
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2004
    I have one pair uncuffed, and they do flap around a bit, and I find that annoying. It's like I'm wearing bell bottoms or something.
    A tailor should be able to put a strip of fabric on the inside of the leg, near the hem. This will help give uncuffed pants the weight of a cuff, and keep them from flapping around.
    Can you clarify where this stip goes please? I have a number of pants which came with it in the back pocket and tailors have been a bit clueless as to what it is and where it goes. Thanks.
     
  15. Sevcom

    Sevcom Senior member

    Messages:
    342
    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2002
    Location:
    New York
    It's generally a strip of canvas the tailor will sew into the inside of the trouser leg, around the bottom. Works well at keeping uncuffed bottoms nice and weighted.

    As to the original question, whichever you feel like, though like some other posters, I'd go 1.5" or nothing. Probably the latter.
     
  16. MPS

    MPS Senior member

    Messages:
    217
    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2003
    Cuffs on a pinstripe suit? Only if the coat sleeves are cuffed.
     
  17. PeterMetro

    PeterMetro Senior member

    Messages:
    796
    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2002
    Location:
    New York
    It's called a heel guard - any competant tailor will know what you're talking about. I generally see them on the rear half of the pant cuff, allowing the front to break naturally over your shoes.
     
  18. Drinkwaters

    Drinkwaters Senior member

    Messages:
    2,275
    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2004
    Location:
    Cambridge, MA
    I always recommend cuffs if the trousers are pleated. The size of the cuff could depend on your height or on the silhouette of footwear you most commonly wear, what I means is, if you tend to wear very dainty styles of shoes such as slip-ons and thin soled shoes you might want a smaller cuff. If your shoes tend to be heavy welted types than a larger cuff seems to be more proportionate.
    As a rule in desiding cuffs or no cuffs, remember that you can always take a cuff off but not put one on unless your tailor hasn't discarded what he cut off.
     
  19. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

    Messages:
    20,008
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2004
    Location:
    New York City / Buenos Aires
    My rule is:

    Pleated, whether one or two, then I cuff. If not pleated, then I don't cuff.

    Jon.
     
  20. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,568
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    I agree that a 1.25" cuff is too small for any man, no matter what his height or leg line. 1.5" is the minimum.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by