I did some searching and did not find much info on the subject. What exactly is the different between a "120" and "160" thread? Where do shirt makers such as Kiton, Turnbull and Asser, Charvet, Geneva, Bornelli, etc get their fabrics from? In a recent thread I read that Geneva might soon be offering "Riva" fabric. Where does Riva stand in the fabric totem pole. What are some of the top fabric makers? Also, what makes them the best? Is there alot of overlap between patterns? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!