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What to ask for in bespoke

brescd01

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Okay, I think I am going to take the plunge and order a bespoke suit from a local tailor, probably the one recommended by Mrs Harris (the shirtmaker), Checchia. I spoke with the woman part of the husband and wife team, and she seemed very knowledgeable, proposing several prices for the degree of handwork, and she said that the two of them do all the work in 3 weeks. She quoted 1800 dollars for a Harris tweed suit with full handwork. So, I have read the forums for months now and I have learned a bit of the lingo. Besides to go with pictures, what are the TEN things I should be sure to ask for that are the mark of a great suit?
 

Mike C.

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It's custom, so the details are optional, but one thing that I'd definatly include are functioning sleeve buttons. The pleats, pockets, fabric, etc... are just a matter of preference.
 

banksmiranda

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I would want:

minimal padding
tapered sleeves
doublesided handsewn buttonholes
high gorge
side vents
1/4 lining
working sleeve buttonholes
slant double piped pockets with flap
ticket pocket
single-breasted 2 or 3-button jacket
peak or notch lapels
pad stitching of lapels done by hand
horn buttons
pleated, "fitted" pants with turnups
 

brescd01

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Naughty man: those are FOURTEEN.
 Thank you so much for this information. Can you provide a picture or pictures to illustrate the points? This is a start:
Also, what is the etiquette for cross-posting with Ask Andy? Am I vexing anyone by posting in both places AND sending an inquiry to "London Lounge?" This is the monster that has been proposed, plus some things I found at the Attolini site: dark blue super 120s 11 ounce fabric single-breasted 3-button jacket w/ notch lapels minimal padding tapered sleeves high gorge side vents full Bemberg rayon lining jetted slant double-piped flap pockets boat shaped chest pocket pick stitching on the lapels and around pocket lines ticket pocket horn buttons doublesided handsewn buttonholes working sleeve buttonholes reverse pleated, "fitted" pants with turnups daks tops (no belt loops) 2 button tongue waist closure shirt sleeve insert with "puckered" appearance pad stitching of lapels done by hand hand canvassed
 

clarinetplayer

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All the previous posts are right on. I would just add that you ought to be fussy as to the quality of fabric that you select. It is worth the money to get the best that you can afford. The quality of the fabric is the most important factor.
 

johnnynorman3

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I'd also opt for some pick stitching on the lapels and around pocket lines.
 

FIHTies

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While I personally like Pick Stitching and have included it in ordered suits for the store , doesnt it create an unwanted lifespan on the suit as pick stitching is a dated fashion that can go out of style? Or has it now become timeless?

I ask because I do not see it as much as I used to.

Thanks.

JJF
 

Stu

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Don't mean to hijack this thread, but I have a question on the topic: Regarding the gorge: I'd assume you want a higher gorge if you are on the shorter end, and a lower gorge if you are taller.

What about if you are a medium build (as I am) -- 5' 10", 190 lbs? I would think a regular gorge for a 2-button suit would be acceptable, no?
 

Alias

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I don't know what marc is babbling about in the other forum on this same topic, but to me it's quite reasonable for a tailor to charge you less for less work, and more for more work, at the customer's discretion. Also, with regards to putting "heart" into the work... the suit won't be made by just one guy. The "heart" put into the suit depends on each person down the "assembly line" towards the finished product. Those are a lot of hearts to count on. I'd put more faith behind tailors depending on their finished products, and not their pricing philosophy.
 

retronotmetro

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That picture is very similar to a chalk stripe flannel suit I had WW Chan make last year.  One thing to be aware of if you use that as your model is the combination of ticket pocket and angled/slanted/hacking pockets is traditionally done for a country suit.  If this suit is to be for city use, someone, someplace will question the taste of putting country details on a city suit (here I recall the ticket pocket flamefest on Ask Andy's forum several weeks ago).  Nevertheless, there are plenty of higher-end RTW/MTM city suits that have the pictured look of chalk stripe/hacking pocket/ticket pocket (IIRC Corneliani used a similar suit in one of their print ads), so if you like the look, I say go for it--I did.
 

matadorpoeta

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banksmiranda made a good call with the tapered sleeves suggestion. these are very rare but definitely a great touch.

stu,
i think that a higher gorge looks best regardless of the height of the person. it's simply a matter of what shape you prefer for the lapels. button stance is different though. they say a lower button stance has a slimming effect and it makes sense to me.

slanted pockets look cool in pictures but i've never liked them on me. you should try on a jacket with slanted pockets before ordering them.
 

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