What Suit features to offset Long and Slim Neck + Frame Narrow Face

[jack220]

As above, I have a rather long and slim neck + a narrow face (the face sort of offsets the long-ish neck, I think...)

With a bespoke suit, would a more padded / structured shoulder offset the long neck, and frame the narrow face well? What else should I ask for?

Lapel width, gorge height (and any other variables that I might have missed).


A bit off topic, but what about shirt collars (spread collar?)

Also, what about tie knots or widths?

 

[NAMOR]

Post pics of what you already have. SFers tend to be more "helpful" this way. Itll be rough at first but youll get used to the snide comments after the 5th or 6th one.

 

[jack220]

Originally Posted by NAMOR

Post pics of what you already have. SFers tend to be more "helpful" this way. Itll be rough at first but youll get used to the snide comments after the 5th or 6th one.

I dont have a suit, thats why I'm seeking advice.

As with the thread on shoulder types / construction (soft, hard, natural, padded, structured etc), certain types of shoulders favor certain types of 'looks / styles'.

I'm sure a real tailor would have general suggestions for a man who has a relatively long and slim neck + narrow face so I dont have to try each and every style to find one that would suit me best.

The variables in question are - shoulder type (being more structured I read somewhere shortens the neck), lapel width, shirt collar type (spread, pointed), tie(?) and any others I might have missed.

 

[Loathing]

I personally think the shoulder structure and gorge height, and even the lapel width are down to preference rather than what your face/neck look like. But if you really want to shorten your neck, then higher suit and shirt collars will do that for you, and yes, a spread collar is supposed to counterbalance a thin face. (They say you should tie a larger knot with a spread collar, but I always tie a relatively tight Victoria knot whatever the collar, because I prefer the shape.)

But really, there is nothing wrong with exaggerating your physique with your clothing, so I would personally choose these details according to my own taste rather than my body shape.

 

[Despos]

Not easy to advise you because there are more factors to consider like your height, neck size/circumference, shoulder slope and width. All are contributing factors. Most basic issue is to have a shirt collar and suit jacket collar that sits higher rather than lower on you neck. If your neck is smaller in circumference in relationship to your chest jacket size you may want to have the collar shortened and raised up to hug your neck better. This is a very general point as other factors need to be known to be specific. Don't wear narrow spread shirt collars and keep everything else, shirt collar, lapels, tie knot moderately sized.

 

[jack220]

Originally Posted by Despos

Not easy to advise you because there are more factors to consider like your height, neck size/circumference, shoulder slope and width. All are contributing factors. Most basic issue is to have a shirt collar and suit jacket collar that sits higher rather than lower on you neck. If your neck is smaller in circumference in relationship to your chest jacket size you may want to have the collar shortened and raised up to hug your neck better. This is a very general point as other factors need to be known to be specific. Don't wear narrow spread shirt collars and keep everything else, shirt collar, lapels, tie knot moderately sized.

Thank you very much for your suggestions.

 

[Yorsch]

what everybody else said, and also narrower and more sloped shoulders will harmonize with thinner face, and longer frame.

 

[Mr. White]

You probably look much better in casual wear.

For suits, heavy or open weaves will drape better on a light frame than fine weaves with a lot of sheen.

 

[Stylistix]

Originally Posted by Yorsch

what everybody else said, and also narrower and more sloped shoulders will harmonize with thinner face, and longer frame.

Regarding shoulders how do you construct boxy (Italian), natural and sloped shoulders?

Are there shoulder pads with different dimensions and shapes to achieve this? i.e with a 'boxy' shoulder, the shoulder pads thickens at the shoulder end to create the square-ish shape...

Will shoulder construction affect how the coat falls or hangs, since it might place the weight of the jacket on different points ?