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What should I order for a new overcoat?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by vc2000, Jun 5, 2006.

  1. vc2000

    vc2000 Senior member

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    I am going to order a new overcoat on my next trip to ww Chan in China. Any recommendations on style or fabric?

    I have one they made. Or I had one. It was lost on a recent business trip.

    I like a double breasted overcoat for warmth but I find it difficult to manage sometimes with all the buttons. When I travel I frequently in and out of hotels, offices, hotels, cars, planes. Unbutton, button... I live near SF so most of the coat usage will be on the road. NYC, London and Europe on business trips. I'm 6'4 so I want something that fits my frame. I'm tempted to get some waist suppression but maybe this isn't a great idea? I'd also like to wear this coat for a long time. It will probably be left eventually at my apt. in NYC.

    On the color. I bought a vicuna coat that is the deep rich vicuna caramel color. This coat is too delicate for business travel wear, it would be a crime to trash that coat on the road. I save this one for better wear.

    Any advices would be appreciated. I am happy with ww Chan but I have to admit that I hate to experiment with an overcoat. The cost is too high and I have to live with the results for too long.
     


  2. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    I have the typical charcoal SB wool/cashmere overcoat from Chan. It's the fit and waist suppression that set it apart from all the other burlap-bag overcoats you see worn on the street. My only suggestion to you would not to skimp on the fabric. I used fabric from one of their cheaper books and I don't think it's going to hold up as well as it could have with higher quality fabric.

    dan
     


  3. maxnharry

    maxnharry Senior member

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    I think a gray herringbone with fly front (sort of Chesterfield without the velvet collar) is a great coat. I have one that has a little waist supression and like it alot.
     


  4. AlanC

    AlanC Minister of Trad

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    Due to the fact that it's a travel coat and that your height simply makes for a lot of coat anyway, I would probably avoid double-breasted. Maxnharry makes a good suggestion, I think. A touch of waist suppression is good, but I'd avoid too much.
     


  5. kitonbrioni

    kitonbrioni Senior member

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    You might go with a charcoal, navy or black cashmere. Loro Piana Storm System would give you a rain/bad weather/snow/etc overcoat. I would suggest a Storm System cashmere, but there are cashmere blends with wool. Also, I not sure a camel or vicuna color overcoat doesn't work an everyday overcoat. Here's a Loro Piana Storm System cashmere, an Oxxford camel hair and a vintage camel hair over 50 years old that was used by a Yale history professor for decades. http://whatareyouwearingtoday.blogspot.com/ [​IMG]
     


  6. jml90

    jml90 Senior member

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    That vintage one is nice.
    I suggest either a camel polo coat or a medium gray chesterfield
     


  7. Jovan

    Jovan Banned for Good

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    I'm all for charcoal or black especially for warmth, but that's me. Notch lapels are great and classic. Peak lapels add a bit of dashing charm. A shirt collar is most functional, but a tad too nonchalant for many people. With pockets, a lot of companies are tending to make ones that are just for looks now (i.e. basically like suit piped pockets). I'd stick with classic slanted coat pockets that you can actually relax your hands in. Also, I suggest getting a button and hole on the lapels so you can button up all the way when it's windy. All of these are for the sake of functionality, since that's what you mainly seem to be after.
     


  8. maxnharry

    maxnharry Senior member

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    VC2000,

    What did you decide for your coat.
     


  9. Jovan

    Jovan Banned for Good

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    Yes, I'm rather interested too.
     


  10. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    i quite like this from next winters YSL collection
     


  11. Jovan

    Jovan Banned for Good

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    Are they out of their minds? There's no buttons.
     


  12. cchen

    cchen Senior member

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    Are there any overcoats for shorter guys? I'm 5'7" and every overcoat I've tried makes me look like a midget [​IMG]
     


  13. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Are they out of their minds? There's no buttons.

    it has i belt - it look the part very simluar to a cloak i reckon! something a bit different to the norm
     


  14. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    Are there any overcoats for shorter guys? I'm 5'7" and every overcoat I've tried makes me look like a midget [​IMG]
    MTM or bespoke is your best bet. Make sure the overcoat has some shaping through the waist and hits just barely below your knee.
     


  15. brescd01

    brescd01 Senior member

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    I would look at the Arnys site to get ideas. They have the most interesting coats I have seen. Furthermore, tan and grey are such tedious colors that absolutely everyone wears.
     


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