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What makes the shoulder area indent?

k4lnamja

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I think I've an unusual looking body compared to many of yours b/c your suits typically look phenomenal, such as Spoo and his attire.

I'm 5'10 160 and I workout on a regular basis. My tailor said my chest is a 41 but I should get a 42. However, 9 times out of 10, whenever I put on a OTR 42R suit, the shoulder area indents in.

Is there a way to remedy this? Does this mean I've buy a 44R?

I asked him this and he said 1. the "dent" are noticeable but aren't that bad (I still dont like the look) and 2. I can't buy a 44R because then the shoulders are too wide and the suit will look funny.

Also, are high armholes the reason for this?

Have any of you encountered this problem?

Cheers
 

musicguy

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Where do the indents occur? On the top or on the side? They can be called divots if they're on the side. The shoulder padding should ideally not jut out beyond the shoulder.
 

Saltricks

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1. armscyes not cut for your particular posture/ arms. Usually dimpling occurs if the armscyes are more forward slanted
2. tightness in the chest/back can sometimes cause the shoulder to dimple
3. the shoulder is too big

Those are 3 reasons I remember off the top of my head
 

k4lnamja

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I apologize. They're divots on the side of the shoulder.

So, you're saying divots occur when the jacket is too large?

The divot between the pad and my tricep is quite . . . tacky. I don't know what to do about this. Not workout my shoulder area? Ha!

Cheers
 

Master-Classter

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it's not that the whole jacket is too big per se, just that the shoulders are probably a bit too wide. the rest of the jacket may fit fine.


as long as we're talking about it, what causes indents along the TOP of the shoulderline?
 

otheme

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I have exactly the same problem. My right tricep is larger than the left one, and I often have horizontal dent on my right shoulder (just outside the triceps). In my case, I know it's because the fabric covering that portion of the shoulder is stretched between front and back. That'll require the top of the right armscye to be slightly roomier and the right sleeve head slightly fatter.

In your case, you need to first find out whether the fabric on the dent is stretched. If it's stretched, then it might be the same problem (since you work out regularly, I suspect it's the same issue).

Most of the off-the-shelf suits are cut based on the body shape of 80-90% of the population. Based on your numbers, I am guessing that you are very muscular and have low body fat. You're probably in the top 5%, which put you out of the reach of most off-shelf suit makers. One thing you might explore is to find a good alteration seamstress, and get a jacket that fits you around the shoulder, and get everything else altered to fit you. Pretty much everything on a suit can be altered, except for the shoulder, collar, and size of the armhole (to some degree).
 

otheme

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indents or humps on TOP of the shoulder is in my opinion the most difficult problem to solve, because there are so many variables and alteration requires consideration of the collor and back panels. The root of the problem is that everyone's shoulder is different and has several parameters. Should width is only one basic number. There are should thickness, slope, contour (whether the shoulder ends are pointing toward front or back, i.e., whether you slouch or stand straight or pull back), where you bones are relative to your muscle, etc. Now, imagine someone has to cut two pieces of flat paper and sew them together to re-create that 3-D model. Technically this can be easily done with a computer (with expensive 3-D scanning of the body). But if it's done by hand, that's all experience and art.

That's why the pattern cutter at each tailor shop is their mostly guarded trade secret. And that's also why I believe most tailors would NEVER allow the customer to meet face to face with their cutter.
 

scurvyfreedman

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Different brands and different cuts within a brand will offer different shoulder widths and shoulder constructions with the same chest dimensions. Once you figure out the cut/proportions you need the easier it will be to find future suits that fit well.

I've had my tailor do a few things. I wear a 40 jacket, but only 18" shoulders. Most 40 jackets come with 18.5 or even 19" shoulders. Some suits, though, work fine. Others I've had the tailor take in the center back of the jacket, removing the collar and recutting the collar on one jacket. That one had especially soft shoulder construction and I didn't want the tailor messing with the shoulders. On another two I had the tailor recut the shoulders to narrow them. It worked well on one jacket, but on another it threw the way the jacket hangs off. It just doesn't seem right when buttoned. But the shoulders fit and so does the chest.

After a few of these experiments, I've taken to finding jackets with the measurments I need. 41"x18." If I find that I'm satisfied and I can buy without trying on.
 

saiyar1

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I have the same problem. In my opinion, it usually has to do with the fact that suits have padded shoulders to create a structured look that most normal guys need. Since you work out, your shoulders already create a strong structured presence, which means your natural shoulder may not coincide with the angle and overall shape the padding is trying to create.

Suits with nearly no padding (Polo Ralph Lauren consistently makes nearly no padding) fix this, as they allow your strong shoulders to define the structure of the jacket. Focus on no padding in shoulders OR keep trying on brands until the padding "jives" with your shoulders.
 

k4lnamja

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That's funny you mention RL suits
because those always fit me the best!

I spoke to my regular tailor yesterday about taking the pads out of sc's to eliminate the divot. He said this was incorrect and there isn't a way to fix a divot from a suit. Keep in mind, I go to him for
minor things and go to my "high end" tailor for my nicer items.

So, you really think taking out the pads or the majority is best? I always thought so bc of the "soft shoulder" look.

Thoughts?

Cheers
 

saiyar1

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I'm in the process of updating my suits and Polo fits perfect and high enough quality for me.

I don't know if it's possible to just remove padding. Maybe others can speak on that. BUT, I imagine you would have to keep in mind that the larger the pads, the more loose cloth in the shoulder area once the padding is removed.
 

k4lnamja

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