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What makes a double breasted suit look dated?

hangten

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I understand that a single breated coat can look dated depending on the gorge, button placement, shoulder padding and width of the lapel. But what are the characteristcs that make a double breasted jacket look dated in a bad way like a low gorge on a SB jacket? I would imagine football shoulder pads would be one.
 

forsbergacct2000

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"1926" embroidered into the pin stripe.
 

Golf_Nerd

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Originally Posted by hangten
I understand that a single breated coat can look dated depending on the gorge, button placement, shoulder padding and width of the lapel. But what are the characteristcs that make a double breasted jacket look dated in a bad way like a low gorge on a SB jacket? I would imagine football shoulder pads would be one.

The fabrics, the colors, the (gone) shape, the proportion and if it's worn out.
 

hangten

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Originally Posted by DocHolliday
More than anything, the button stance. Lot of awful 4x1s and 6x1s out there.

Thanks Doc, it was from one of your earlier posts where I actually figured out what a low gorge was.
 

neyus

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Definitely the height of the gorge, buttoning stance, positioning and configuration, choice of fabrics in addition to the width of the lapel. Also notch lapels on DBs must be avoided and not only make the suit look dated, just down right creepy as well.
 

mack11211

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Originally Posted by DocHolliday
Were notch lapels ever in vogue on DBs? I can't remember seeing more than a couple of them.

Maybe a brief Rat Pack moment in the early 60s.

Thom Browne brought them back in a Black Fleece piece or two.
 

gdl203

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search yachtie's posts for a pictural explanation



jk jk
 

unpainted huffheinz

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Originally Posted by DocHolliday
More than anything, the button stance. Lot of awful 4x1s and 6x1s out there.

There are 'Kent' 4x1 and 6x1 too which should look fine. The longer line of the x1 button can look quite elegant. A V button positioning immediately dates the suit though.
 

JayJay

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Originally Posted by mack11211
Thom Browne brought them back in a Black Fleece piece or two.

Yes, TB has a BF db suit this season along with a blazer. He had a db blazer for spring and one last fall. All with notched lapels.
 

DocHolliday

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Originally Posted by unpainted huffheinz
There are 'Kent' 4x1 and 6x1 too which should look fine. The longer line of the x1 button can look quite elegant. A V button positioning immediately dates the suit though.

I don't like 6x1s or 4x1s in general, but I take your point. Some don't appeal to me, personally, but don't look dated the way others do.
 

unpainted huffheinz

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Originally Posted by DocHolliday
I don't like 6x1s or 4x1s in general, but I take your point. Some don't appeal to me, personally, but don't look dated the way others do.
I would agree that most people searching for a DB on eBay should avoid the single buttoning ones in general. I have picked up some nice 4x1 suits and jackets second hand though. In particular the 4x1 gray tweed Corneliani with perhaps the highest RTW armholes ever. It is cut fairly short and I think Thom Browne would give a tooth for it. Do you have any double breasted suits, Doc? I don't recall seeing any pics of you in one.
 

unpainted huffheinz

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The current trend of very narrow lapels makes for some really awful looking DB jackets and overcoats. I would avoid these as it is not going to last that long (apologies to Get Smart).

I have recently favored some rather wide lapels including a 'bat wing' or two, and my heavy winter overcoat is a vintage Ralph piece with lapels that cover acres.
 

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