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Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by RKNix, May 2, 2012.
Word. I find He-Man and Thundercats instructive on the look of athleticism.
The $5k price tag already limits the number sold, and I think of those laying down that kind of coin for his suits (vs. the more traditional Brioni, Kiton, etc.) are more likely to already have such a build.
i'm no tailoring expert but my instinct is that these suits have to follow/ slightly exaggerate natural proportions in order to work as intended. the shoulders are so strong that if one had narrow shoulders it would mean a couple of inches of padding projecting out on each side.. i mean look at the guy on the right with TF, clearly that shoulder is jutting out but it's acceptable because it does so by only a small amount.
The Wikipedia, it disagrees.
On what basis are some of you saying that the shoulders in TF jackets are heavily padded?
The short guy on the right looks ridiculous. The shoulder on that jacket are sticking out like the empty prow of a boat, a look made worse because his arm is bent making it clear that his actual shoulders are buried somewhere inches into his jacket.
But, I'm delighted to see the patented Tom Ford collar gap in that photo.
One minor correction to Vox's post - a 42R jacket equates to a 'natural' chest of 40". Thus, the drop is more like 3"-4", rather than the heroic 8" than everyone on SF appears to boast.
What exactly are you correcting? He was talking about the size of the suit. It's still a 6-inch drop. If you're referring to actual measurements, it's just as probable that one would need to take in a 36 inch waist.
^ like i say, i'm no expert, don't own any of these suits, but the ones i've tried on did seem to be heavily padded. and they do all seem to have that very exaggerated shoulder 'prow', so i assume that's intentional?
I was careful to use the term "drop" in the tailoring sense, that is jacket chest size to pants waist size.
But, to add more fuel to your point, RTW pants waist size has a ubiquitous vanity factor...if one wears a 32" waist, it is a safe bet that a tailor's will tell you that your actual waist is larger.
Be that as it may, Tom Ford has done a good job convincing some people that that his RTW products are "athletic" simply by paying athletes and actors to wear them.
Every guy I've seen in IRL wearing TF has been kind of schlubby, and every time their arms move, the ersatz shoulder line swimming to and fro has been a delightful spectacle.
Perhaps I need to meet James Bond, you know, to get the real story.
To the best of my knowledge, the drop is calculated of the natural measurements. For example, I was measured by a new tailor last week, and he would call out the details to his assistant like so, "42 chest, 34 waist, 8 drop."
EDIT: Just saw Vox's new post above - thanks. Perhaps the drop is often calculated on the basis of stated RTW sizes, and not the 'natural' measurements. Regardless, my broader point still stands - an 8" drop is not common, and no manufacturer of RTW suits (particularly one catering to an affluent, and, by extension, older clientele) will make suits as such.
OK, yes, a man's actual chest size is smaller than his jacket size (if he wants any mobility anyhow), typical is 2-3", no earth shattering knowledge there. However, I don't think 8" is really "heroic". I am fit, but certainly not heroic or overly muscular. I have an actual chest measurement of 43" and a waist measurement of 34" (measured by my tailor), and I would doubt that anyone is comparing me to an action figure. I typically wear a 44L/XL jacket and have it tailored. It makes some sense to me that many of the people (especially new posters) are people who have tried OTR suiting and found it lacking in the fit department, so they search around and wind up here.
so, genuine question, as i say you clearly know far more about tailoring than I do: what kind of physique do you think would work?
^ Perhaps someone tall and slim, who would welcome the exaggerated shoulders, lapels etc. in order to broaden the torso.
Spoiler: Warning: nsfw!
I don't think that you are going to get Manton in Tom Ford, unless his PUA thread goes viral and he changes career.
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