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What kind of fusing is this ???


Distinguished Member
Oct 20, 2007
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I was at Lane Crawford (Hong Kong's high-end dept. store) the other day and I came across this beautifully cut suit in basket weave midnight. Since coming to SF, I've developed this natural tendency to check for canvassing on every jacket I come across. This particular suit underwent the same examination and quickly revealed itself as a fully canvassed suit. But the story doesn't end there.

As usual, I pinched up the fabric above the breast pocket and rolled it between my fingers while simultaneously rolling the fabric on the sleeve. The fabric on both areas appears to be of the same thickness; indicating the lack of a fused coating behind the chest area. I proceeded to examine the rest of the jacket by checking the area below the buttonhole and behind the lapel. The canvas clearly extended down to the bottom of the jacket and to the lapel where it is secured by many tiny hand-made stitches, which manifests itself as very delicate dimples. The dreaded rubbery backing is nowhere to be found.

Everything looks good, the canvas seems to be secured only by the lapel stitching and pocket stitching, everywhere else the canvas is free-floating. However, my examination didn't end there. For the first time, I rolled the fabric on the interior (not the lining) of the jacket and was perplexed by what I found. I pinched up the wool fabric adjacent to the interior pockets and found that it was thicker than anywhere else. It quickly became obvious that a light coat of fusing was attached to the underside of the interior fabric. As you know, the interior fabric rolls over to become the front-side of the lapel. I managed the pinch up the front of the lapel and felt a very very thin layer of rubbery coating.

This baffles me because I don't understand the point of it. The canvas is properly secured by the stitches already, why line the interior fabric (not the rayon lining) with fusing? Is this a new type of semi-canvassing method? How does it save any cost?

Nevertheless, the drape of the jacket looks great and the chest piece felt very soft and flexible.

I would definitely appreciate some insight on this matter.

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