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What is your all-time favorite shoe or boot and why?

MrUnderwood

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Not sure i understand. Do you mean brands or type of shoes/boots?

Ill answer a combined that fits both. Crockett and Jones Chiltern Chukka boots in dark brown suede (or snuff suede if you can pull it off, i myself cannot make snuff work). They simply go with anything.
 

comrade

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Ludwig Reiter 3 eylet derby in the Amerikaner last
I have it in Suede, and water buffalo ( I think) Discontinued

1803 Campo Chukka ( old model) Needless to say the newer model
doesn't fit me in the same size

70s era Allen Edmonds Viking Chukka in Boarhide
 

Count de Monet

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One of my favorite boots is a stock Allen Edmonds Long Branch in Horween’s Chromexal. So about a year ago I MTO’d an LB with Dublin leather, a mini lug, and some other changes. I like it because of the patina, the feel, and because it’s a little unusual.

The Bonafe is from a small GMTO. Also a little unusual since it is a hidden seam NST, ie on the inside. And it is a versatile shoe.

Tied for third are stock Indy boot 405’s that are a nice butterscotch and an AE Bradley (NST) in burgundy shell. The latter is on a great last for me and the shell is the most comfy of all my shell shoes. I also like the pronounced stitching around the apron.
 
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Kingstonian

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Padmore & Barnes P204
Sanders HiTop
RM Williams Craftsman

Comfort uber alles.
I have all of those. Clark’s Wallabee instead of Padmore but more or less the same.

I disagree. Suede shoes are fine on dry days. Wallabee is fine in Summer. Hi Top sizing is rather tight though. Even then they are not a shoe I go to that often. Craftsman I have had a long time but does not get great use. Putting them on is a chore. A shoe horn job. And I only wear them with certain clothes.
 

Kingstonian

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1. Hoggs of Fife Kenmore. This was made by Loake I suspect. A long wing brogue in Scotch grain with a Dainite sole. Very comfortable. You can dress it up or down. It was not so expensive that you are worried about damaging it. A great shoe for regular wear.

2 Crockett and Jones Clifford Handgrade. An elegant brogue on the classic 337 last. Nice leather. Bought from Pediwear on a price match. At the time, an Indonesian shop offered inexpensive Crockett and Jones. Just converted the price from ringgits and advised Pediwear. Crockett and Jones subsequently stopped supplying the Indonesian shop.

3 Churchs Consul. Classic black Oxford in calf leather. Weddings, funerals and formal occasions with a suit. Bought at Church factory shop in St James near the railway station in Northampton.

I could have mentioned J Lobb Chapel which I picked up for a song at their factory shop. I don’t wear it that often though. High days and holidays. Same for the Edward Green monk shoes I bought. They are not as good a fit though.
 

notdos

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My dream boot would be G&G Urban Commando.

Phillip
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Hm ... I'd go with:

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1. Edward Green Dover on the 606 last and in dark oak

No shoe will do everything, but I think the split toe stretches across a wider range of wardrobes than most. It goes well with sport coats, can be used with suits, and in very specific instances, can even be worn with jeans (although I still think of it as a tailored clothing shoe). The design is also less common than wingtips and less formal than oxfords. EG's version is the Platonic ideal for RTW, in my book. Handsewn pie crust apron looks great; reversed split-and-lift stitch on the toe seam keeps the shoe from looking too taxidermic. 606 last is also just very handsome.


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2. Edward Green Piccadilly on the 184 last (although, this is the only last they'll allow) and again dark oak

My favorite of the dressier penny loafers. Too sleek for jeans, I think, but it goes great with odd trouser and sport coat combos. Again, just a terrific shape that's neither too pointy nor too stubby. Dark oak is a terrific dark brown leather -- not too light or too dark, it has a nice chocolate brown shade that shows its age well. I also think EG has some of the better finished shoes on the market. Their burnishing is nice without being gaudy, and it gives the leather some visual depth.


Screen Shot 2018-06-08 at 2.46.12 PM.png



3. Three way tie.

If we can include bespoke shoes, then my latest split toes from Nicholas Templeman. These were made to be a toned down version of JM Weston's hunt derby, which I find to be too thick and chunky for practical wear. Mine has a regular welt, instead of Weston's bulky Norwegian welt, and a slightly sleeker last while still being casual enough to wear with jeans.

One of the interesting things about this design is the apron (all credit goes to Nicholas). The Weston hunt derby is made with really thick leather, so they're able to get this uniquely bumpy, handsewen flat seam. When Nicholas tried copying the apron using this French calf, however, the leather kept ripping. Some Japanese makers get around this by using a thicker boot leather, but then we land back at the problem of me wanting a not-as-thick hunt shoe.

Nicholas' solution was to go with a wholecut split toe. The bumpy apron you see above is actually fake. The vamp is made from one continuous piece of leather and Nicholas just stitched the apron on without pulling the stitches too tightly. There's a small line between the stitches, which was made by scoring with a knife, just to get the appearance of there being two pieces of leather. I love the creative problem solving Nicholas came up with here.



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If we're only sticking to ready-to-wear makers though, then my last is probably some kind of side-zip boot, either by Margiela or Kapital. I wear both equally often. Margiela goes with more contemporary outfits; Kapital goes with workwear. I like how side zips are easy to put on, as you don't have to lace anything up. You can just slip on the boot and zip it up even while standing. And it has a slightly more directional design than classic shoes, which I like better with similarly more directional casualwear. The Beatles and Bob Dylan sometimes wore side zips with suits and sport coats (dressier versions), but I like them with topcoats, chore coats, leather jackets, etc.

The Kapitals were made with what's known in Japan as kakishibu, where a material is dyed with the fermented juice of unripe astringent persimmons. That's what gives them that slightly rusty brown color. I find it makes the leather look like it's aged a bit more than it actually is, especially as you wear the boots and the material lightens up. The design isn't for everyone, but it goes well with brands like Visvim, Kapital, Engineered Garments, Chimala, etc. Basically a lot of my casualwear wardrobe.

The Margeials have a great shape, but like with a lot of designer shoes, the build quality leaves a bit to be desired. The company is now headed by John Galliano, who's upgraded the materials, but smooth calfs still aren't that great (just textured leathers and suede). I currently have another order with Nicholas where I'm having black side zips made, and those will replace my Margielas. Depending on how those turn out, I'll probably get a brown pair too, although I imagine I'll still wear my Kapitals.

My side zips from Nicholas are somewhat inspired by a pair of pull-on riding boots he relasted for himself. I saw them at a trunk show and thought they looked great. Apparently an old boot he found at John Lobb while he worked there as a lastmaker. He just pulled out the stitching, relasted the top, and remade them in his size.
 
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emptym

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^I look forward to seeing your new SZs from NT.

1) George boots by DW Frommer. Have them in shell and buffalo. They're gorgeous works of art, made in the USA, handwelted, fit my foot perfectly, go with everything from sport coat and tie to jeans, and are durable enough for riding a motorcycle with abandon. Lots of pics and description of their making here.

2) Alden's LHS. I think they're the best looking penny loafer out there and have them in unlined shell and unlined suede, both of which are super comfortable and look appropriate with everything from suit to shorts. I'd even wear a black shell pair with a tux in a pinch.

3) tie between either plain toe wholecut loafers or plain Belgian-type loafers like Baudoin and Lange's Sagan. I have suede, calfskin, and velvet wholecuts: Rider Boot Tramp, Alfred Sargent Carrolls w/o tassels (one-offs from their handgrade program), and the Leather Shop (South Orange, NJ). I wouldn't wear a wholecut loafer w/ shorts, but the Sagan's about as versatile as the unlined Alden LHS, perhaps because they're unlined. Have one suede pair, w/ deerskin ones on the way.

I'll try to take and post some pics.
 

Blake Stitched Blues

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I have all of those. Clark’s Wallabee instead of Padmore but more or less the same.

I disagree. Suede shoes are fine on dry days. Wallabee is fine in Summer. Hi Top sizing is rather tight though. Even then they are not a shoe I go to that often. Craftsman I have had a long time but does not get great use. Putting them on is a chore. A shoe horn job. And I only wear them with certain clothes.
I tend to wear suede on rainy days so long as they've been treated with a nano-protector. My P&Bs do have Vibram soles though, so probably a little better in weather than the standard crepe.

Agree that the HiTop sizing is tight, I went up a half-size in mine.
 
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comrade

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. Edward Green Dover on the 606 last and in dark oak

The antiquing is egregious. Not noticeable on your other shoes.
 
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RogerP

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Talk about a tough call.

Fave shoes would go to my Anthony Cleverley burgundy Adelaides. Why? Because they are sublime. And because cranberry laces make me smile. :D



Fave boots? I seriously dunno. Probably just have to go with a purely emotional pic for these blue Vass dress boots. While most of my footwear escapes the attention of the general public, people catch sight of these boots and walk into walls. People walking into walls makes me smile. :D

 

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