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What is wrong with this jacket on me?

Mr Tickle

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Is it just too big? It's my regular size (40 UK) but obviously the sleeves are too long. I really like the colour and texture but when I look at it in pictures or the mirror it looks sort of shapeless and puffed out. Could I get it altered so it looks nicer, or is it just my eyes being over-critical? (It feels great and not too roomy).
 

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breakaway01

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There is some perspective distortion making the bottom of your body look larger than the top, but even taking that into account what I see are several issues:
1. the chest is a bit tight, causing the lapels to bow
2. the buttoning point is high -- it looks like it is a good bit above your natural waist
3. To me it looks like the front balance of the jacket is short, meaning that there isn't enough material in the front of the jacket to get over your chest. As a result the fronts of the jacket are not hanging vertically (see how the stripes are converging at the bottom of the jacket?) and the quarters are "closed". This probably also explains the high buttoning point.

Unfortunately these issues are not addressable by tailoring as far as I know.
 

Mr Tickle

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There is some perspective distortion making the bottom of your body look larger than the top, but even taking that into account what I see are several issues:
1. the chest is a bit tight, causing the lapels to bow
2. the buttoning point is high -- it looks like it is a good bit above your natural waist
3. To me it looks like the front balance of the jacket is short, meaning that there isn't enough material in the front of the jacket to get over your chest. As a result the fronts of the jacket are not hanging vertically (see how the stripes are converging at the bottom of the jacket?) and the quarters are "closed". This probably also explains the high buttoning point.

Unfortunately these issues are not addressable by tailoring as far as I know.
Thanks, I can see all of that now.
Is it just a badly constructed jacket or does it just not fit me well?
 

breakaway01

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Thanks, I can see all of that now.
Is it just a badly constructed jacket or does it just not fit me well?
It just doesn’t fit you well. How the jacket is cut and whether it fits your body is a separate issue from quality of construction.
 

Mr Tickle

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It just doesn’t fit you well. How the jacket is cut and whether it fits your body is a separate issue from quality of construction.
Got it. Thanks.
Do you mind if I post a couple more? I'm in a strange position of having worn suits and jackets all my life due to my work, and to be honest not being that worried about style/fit as I pretty much considered it a uniform.

Now I work for myself from home and only really wear suits/jackets for social occasions, and am much more interested in how they look on me. So I'm experimenting with more casual styles and have bought a few items but am not really sure what works and what doesn't.
 

breakaway01

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Sure. Take photos with the camera pointing straight ahead (not tilted), around the level of your lower chest. If possible, views from the back and side would also be helpful. Try to stand with your normal posture (not overly erect if that's not how you normally stand).
 
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Mr Tickle

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Ok, so I tried to get the camera as straight as possible.A bit of difficulty due to no tripod and lack of good surfaces in the best lit area of my room... Will have to do this as separate posts due to lack of skill in editing posts on this forum on my phone...

These two jackets look a bit better fitting to my eye ... Both feel reasonably comfy too.
 

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Mr Tickle

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As an aside, with this jacket (or another like it if I end up replacing it) what would be a good choice of trouser? As I'm trying to get the basics right, I'm following the light top/dark bottom guideline. So I've worn the jacket here with both a pair of darkish grey chinos and a pair of darkish blue jeans. Am I thinking along the right lines? My other options would be black jeans or dark wool, but I'm thinking as the jacket is linen this is a summer style and those types of trousers might be incongruous. I also have olive and navy chinos.

If I was going to break the dark/light thing I have the stone cotton trousers I've worn in the other pics, beige jeans, light grey wool trousers and off-white chinos. My gut tells me they are mostly too close in colour to the jacket, though, to look like an artfully constructed ensemble rather than a half-arsed attempt at mixing and matching.
 

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breakaway01

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My disclaimer: not a tailor (though perhaps @Despos or @Toninno might be able to comment)
to my unprofessional eye you look a little barrel-chested, which is leading to the fronts being short on you on the first two jackets. The navy jacket has some of the same issues as the first: lapels are bowing and not sitting flat on your chest. On the side view you can see how angled the hem of the jacket is (rising towards the front)
The third jacket fits you best of the three. I am not entirely sure about the sleevehead on the side view but perhaps you have forward shoulders?
From a styling standpoint I struggle a bit with jackets like the third. I find it easier to wear that color as a (casual) suit. As a sportcoat I think you want to stay a little more casual with the trousers as you said. I would lean towards trying cream/off-white but the darker chinos could work. Also think about the shirt -- summer casual for sure. White or pale blue, linen or linen-cotton, or potentially a long sleeve polo.
 

Mr Tickle

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Great, thanks ... So no one has ever described me as barrel chested before, maybe everyone I know is just too polite. Actually not even sure that it isn't a compliment, certainly sounds better than being barrel-stomached. So I am wondering if this is more a posture issue? I did find myself having to think about how to stand "naturally" while I was taking the pic. Maybe I got it wrong.

I can definitely see the hem of the jacket is angled upwards with the navy jacket. Do you also think it is a little short?

I have two new jackets in linen and hopsack arriving today so I will post pictures of them too. The frustrating thing is that it seems like such a lottery, as the only option I have right now is buying online. Literally all I can verify about the item before I click buy is that it matches my size 40r or 40s. Beyond that, any of the other issues that you are identifying can't be spotted until I try it on. The perils of online ready-to-wear tailoring I guess.

If neither of these new jackets are right, I will take a break from refining my jacket collection for a while (not like I really have anywhere to wear them) and go back to thinking about knitwear.
 

breakaway01

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I think the navy jacket is short in front but the rear might be the correct length.
Forgot to mention, sleeves are long on all of the jackets
 

Mr Tickle

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I think the navy jacket is short in front but the rear might be the correct length.
Forgot to mention, sleeves are long on all of the jackets
Yes , don't worry, I felt that went without saying!

One of my new jackets arrived today. My first impressions are that I really like it, and it doesn't look immediately wrong to me, as was the case with the jacket that prompted me to start this thread.
This one is wool and cashmere so it's not a summer jacket unlike all the others I've posted before. It also seems more formal perhaps because of the thicker material so I'm comfortable wearing it with more formal trousers , although I realise that with the herringbone pattern and patch pockets it's inherently casual. Trouser suggestions? Interested in your (or anyone's) thoughts?
 

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Mr Tickle

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One more I'm interested in opinions on ... This is my other navy jacket, it's wool unlike the previous navy one I posted, which was linen. But is the fit any better? (Not so worried about this one, as I don't get much chance to wear it, it seems overly formal for most situations where a blazer is appropriate).
 

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mhip

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On the new tan jacket...
With the button point where it is, it fits almost as if it's a 3-button even though it's a 2.
And what is that peeking out near the 2nd button hole??
 

Mr Tickle

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On the new tan jacket...
With the button point where it is, it fits almost as if it's a 3-button even though it's a 2.
And what is that peeking out near the 2nd button hole??
That is the tag!
 

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