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What is wrong with Brioni?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Martingale, Jul 28, 2016.

  1. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Distinguished Member

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    Admittedly haven't had time to read through the whole thread. Just some quick thoughts, to what I think is probably some "pearl clutching" (not 100% sure what that term means in this context) and overly charitable views of O'Shea's move:

    O'Shea is obviously going for a more fashion forward crowd. For guys who like that kind of stuff, you have to admit it's also a little derivative. Like "hey metal iconography is really hot in fashion right now, let's do an ad campaign with Metallica." The last collection looks like it was inspired by pimps from a bad '90s film, which also falls into this whole "low brow/ low fashion" aesthetic that's really popular with Vetements, Gosha, Hedi SLP, etc. Is that really to be celebrated? Not just in terms of following the crowd, but even just that whole shift in general?

    This all seems like a huge gamble.

    First, Brioni is first and foremost a tailored clothing company. And the market they're going after doesn't really wear tailored clothing (traditional or otherwise). Even O'Shea himself is rarely pictured in a tailored jacket, and he looks like he's the company model right now for the sort of customer they're after.

    Second, if they're able to sell tailored clothing to a more fashion forward audience, how long can that last? And what happens when that crowd leaves that for the next trend? Unlike all the other companies they're competing with, they have less aesthetic mobility (unless they're really just going to become a design house).

    Third, why hire O'Shea? Whether you support the fashion forward shift or not, he seems like a weird pick. He doesn't have the design chops or vision to be truly exciting to anyone interested in fashion. And his taste is going to be considered awful for anyone with more traditional sensibilities. Brioni presumably has a huge budget; why couldn't they have gone with a stronger creative director? Is it just because O'Shea, as a person, is more likely to generate press?
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2016


  2. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Distinguished Member

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    Now in: video of a StyFoDude giving Brioni business advice


    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]
     


  3. mzmart

    mzmart Active Member

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    They went with O'Shea because he was a big success a My Theresa and presumably has some talent for picking saleable items.

    Also, they probably figure, 'well its worth the risk to try and upsize (al la other big brand upsizes)'. "If it goes pearshape, we can always refocus on the core middle aged gentlemen clientele - they'll come back if the style goes back to what they like".

    Of course the real reason why Brioni is not flourishing its too bloody expensive for what you get.
     


  4. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Distinguished Member

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    Yes, but for womenswear no?

    I'm not saying he isn't skilled. I'm saying it seems like they could have picked a better creative director. Even if were a matter of choosing sellable items, ideally it would be someone with experience in design or even just men's clothing.

    I imagine this shift could turn off a lot of their core customers. Of all the fashion-forward focuses they could have taken, pimp-inspired, Vetements-led trends seems like the worst one to set alongside their traditional offerings. Something more minimalist and luxury-focused (a la Lemaire or something) feels like it would have been a lot more compatible.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2016


  5. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Distinguished Member

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    I thought he was studying architecture, but applied for fashion designer jobs after graduation because he liked it better. I've seen him say this in interviews.
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2016


  6. Aquafortis

    Aquafortis Senior Member

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    He did study architecture at Parsons. However, the point is that he was formally trained in a high level of design thinking - this gives one the ability to approach design problems in a sophisticated way. He obviously has a knack for working with people, business sense, and style/fashion.
     


  7. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Distinguished Member

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    Congrats for continued that way.
     


  8. comrade

    comrade Distinguished Member

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    "The mood of the '70s I find to be the most exciting in terms of where I live mentally."

    I think that just about sums it up...UGH. 
    [/quote]

    He omitted any reference to Cocaine

    I remember the 70s, but I wore Chipp.
     


  9. FattoAMano

    FattoAMano New Member

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    Prior to Justin O'Shea, the creative director was Brendan Mullane. When he took over in 2012, his designs were fashion forward and his last collection was really out there. As the Parisian gent pointed out sales went south. So Brioni axed him and intended to go back to pre 2012 with Justin O'Shea.

    O'Shea's interpretation of the of pre 2012 was to bring back a suit model from their archives. Which is a great idea. However he failed in his interpretation when he decided to cheapen the construction by creating the first every fused suit by Brioni. If you do not believe me, go over to Neiman Marcus and ask for the continental suit. Pinch the lapel and try to pull apart if it does, you will unglue it! They chose to do this to lower the entry price point.. from $6k to $5k. What a savings.. I guess the millennial have a are adverse to numbers starting with 6.

    I don't know about you, but fused and Brioni should not be in the same sentence.
     


  10. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior Member

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    Last edited: Aug 3, 2016


  11. Dandy Wonka

    Dandy Wonka Senior Member

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    Speaks volumes. I am sure that Brioni customers (or the people that should still be their customers) would be happy to pay an extra $1K to avoid that garbage.
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2016


  12. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Distinguished Member

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    O'Shea only started working at Brioni this April. He debuted his first collection three weeks ago in Paris and it's not set to hit stores until SS17. Whatever is at NM probably doesn't have anything to do with him.
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2016


  13. mzmart

    mzmart Active Member

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    Encouraging. The Metallica thing is a misstep but there is something about O'Shea that is quite promising and astute - maybe the atypical background.
     


  14. othertravel

    othertravel Distinguished Member

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    Are you sure? On the NM website the continental models are from the 'Paris One Collection'.

    Looks like they're stilling selling their regular, handmade models (with higher retail than the continental fits).
     


  15. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Distinguished Member

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    So, the summary is that some Brioni fans are getting upset because Brioni is betraying them by going back to its authentically glamorous, over-the-top and tasteless roots.
     


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