What is wrong with Brioni?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Martingale, Jul 28, 2016.

  1. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Being shocked by something - like from old movies, where a woman would gasp and hold her pearl necklace and say something like "my stars!" lol
     


  2. Martingale

    Martingale Active Member

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    Spot on. I don't how Trump hurts the brand or how aspiring individuals have an aversion to Trump and his suits by default. Brioni still makes a nice product, i bought my three Brioni suits within a year, aged 32, but a 70s hipster suit is definitely one that will crush your chances for a job interview. In the end suits are business tools and not a hipster's self expression. Again reading an interview with a guy who speaks like a pimp makes Trump sound like an academic!
     


  3. gs77

    gs77 Senior member

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    Not necessarily bad - Tom Ford is after same aesthetics, with great success.
     


  4. Aquafortis

    Aquafortis Well-Known Member

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  5. coldinboston

    coldinboston Senior member

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    Thanks i had no idea what that meant either
     


  6. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    The Brioni brand was built on fashion and celebrity. It was the first brand to put on a menswear runway show, unheard of in the 50s, and it actively courted movie stars and made it's name on glamor and red carpet. It's a brand that, much like Gucci, lost much of it's luster in its latter years, mostly due to the placement in high end stores as a "mature" man's brand, and the buying by retailers for that customer. If you were in a Neiman Marcus, say, 5-10 years ago, you'd imagine that the target customer was Arnold Palmer, who, whille a great golfer in his day, was hardly a glamorous figure in the 00s.

    I agree with Parisian Gentleman's assessment to focus on tailored looks, but I also think that differentiating itself from something like Kiton is important. It simply has a very different DNA than the other brands he mentions (Isaia, Kiton, Cifonelli). It's DNA is much closer to that of Tom Ford, and maybe some Tom Ford style and level of marketing would bring back that "sexiness" that is core to Brioni.

    I am not sure of the new logo, and I agree that the red logo shown earlier here may be a better match.

    Celebrity outreach is also very important to all of these brands (I get emails from Isaia about who was spotted wearing Isaia in what show, daily), and Brioni clearly needs to really figure out the right guys to target. The Metallica thing is silly. However, I could see a bunch of guys who would make great Brioni models, and who are much more in tune with the DNA of Brioni than are Metallica. Here would be a few of my suggestions, who span at least two generations, but all of whom own an image of a mature roguishness and/or a type of "sexiness" that is appealing to men. IMO, anyone younger or younger looking than say, 40, would probably not work. I really see their DNA as more Hollywood, and less rock and roll: Sean Connery, Jack Nicholson, Bradley Cooper, George Clooney, Russell Crowe, Liam Neeson, Hugh Jackman, Michael Fassbender, Idris Elba, Ewan McGregor.

    Re. "heavily tattoo'ed", that's just par for the course in the clothing business these days, and has no connotations, one way or the other. Every second designer has full sleeves and tattoos up to their neck. I used to be the only non-tatted guy in MMA, but now I'm also the only non-tatted up dude at many tradeshows.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2016


  7. gs77

    gs77 Senior member

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    You are right. But Tom Ford is the one who stole the throne, in a way, and with a major male celebrity ever to wear suit - 007.
     


  8. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    The crown can change hands quickly, and Brioni is sitting on a great name and a great legacy. As a menswear brand, it has a lot more history than Gucci, which Tom Ford revived, ever had. And Gucci had been reduced, by the time Tom Ford took it over, to a brand sold in Duty Free shops to Asian tourists.
     


  9. ChetB

    ChetB Senior member

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    Except, as LA Guy pointed out, that's not Brioni's true heritage. And though it may have evolved into a "business tool," with the way dress codes are changing, that's becoming decreasingly true once again.

    Say what you will about O'Shea's execution, but I think the strategy to make Brioni "sexy" again, as LA Guy put it, makes sense. It may alienate some existing customers, but if they pull it off, it probably puts them in a better market position long term.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2016


  10. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Last edited: Jul 31, 2016


  11. Viral

    Viral Senior member

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    Guys.....all this is interesting and perhaps warrants more insight , But why didn't Brioni check with their customers before making any changes??? That's the $1,000,000.00 question! WHY??????

    It was even mandated by a few posters above....WHY?????
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2016


  12. Martingale

    Martingale Active Member

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    I guess they think that there is a core clientele that wull buy Brioni, no matter what. Wring assumption if you ask me.
     


  13. Aquafortis

    Aquafortis Well-Known Member

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    Two other distinctions to mention here:

    1. Success doesn't necessarily equate with good taste.

    2. Ford was trained as a designer at one of the best design schools (Parsons in NYC) anywhere.
     


  14. Dandy Wonka

    Dandy Wonka Senior member

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  15. Dandy Wonka

    Dandy Wonka Senior member

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    Ironically Brioni used to dress Bond:

    http://www.007museum.com/Brioni_James_Bond.htm

    Now they should be dressing the guys from The Hangover.
     


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