What is wrong with Brioni?

[SartodiNapoli]

It seems the hype on this brands is going into fashion since on classical dressing arrived to the max,
so need to get different clientele, ( hipsters, and so on) so they can continue filling their numbers.

My friends on Kiton also took the same ( bad) decision and started making some fashionista clothes as
Brioni is making since years ago, leather bags for “men”, sportive overpriced whatever and so on.

capitalism has it´s side effects...

 

[gs77]



It seems the hype on this brands is going into fashion since on classical dressing arrived to the max,
so need to get different clientele, ( hipsters, and so on) so they can continue filling their numbers.

My friends on Kiton also took the same ( bad) decision and started making some fashionista clothes as 
Brioni is making since years ago, leather bags for “men”, sportive overpriced whatever and so on.

capitalism has it´s side effects...

Amen brother!

 

[Dandy Wonka]

By co-incidence the PG has commented again on Brioni just now:

Update : since the release of this PG article, Brioni appointed a new artistic director. His first action was to put together a campaign with... Metallica ! I don't dislike Metallica but I'm not sure it's the right way to regain the heart (and the wallet) of the former Brioni fan base...

 

[Dandy Wonka]

By the way, when you look at some pictures of their new artistic director (fellow Aussie Justin O'Shea) you see straight away the market they seem to be chasing.

I think he's pretty stylish but when I look at him I don't think Brioni.

 

[Journeyman]

By the way, when you look at some pictures of their new artistic director (fellow Aussie Justin O'Shea) you see straight away the market they seem to be chasing.

He's an interesting guy. I don't know whether he'll help Brioni to find its feet again, but this article from Vogue about him, including an interview, is worth reading:

http://www.vogue.com/13454070/brioni-justin-oshea-interview/

 

[Martingale]

This interview is such a disaster. This guy talks like a pimp, looks like a pimp. Honestly not the kind of people that i would invite in my house.

 

[Hartmann]

The "new" logo seems to be a reworking of their earlier logo (the GQ article says from the 50s but I have no idea):

But employing the world's most famous—and still touring—metal band wasn't the only big shake up O'Shea made; he also unveiled a new medieval-style logo, which is actually a spin on the house's first official one from the mid-50's.

This is the "old" logo btw:

 

[ChetB]



The pearl clutching is strong in this thread.

+1

 

[Dandy Wonka]

That "pear-clutching" comment is idiotic and condescending.

 

[ChetB]

Ok sure.

 

[double00]

Well what guy doesn't want "a silk bomber with a dragon on it"?

Ido suggest that they new space they seem to be aiming for might already be taken. I think what maybe seems so shocking to some is that they were already the masters of a particular niche. I dunno, seems like chasing waves to me. It will be interesting to see.

Rattle, rattle.

 

[SartodiNapoli]



That "pear-clutching" comment is idiotic and condescending.

What means those words? Never seen those before.

 

[Wrong Crowd]

I'm glad that there's a thread about this because I have been confused about the direction Brioni has been taking ever since I saw the Metallica announcement. The article that Dandy Wonka posted has a comment from a Brioni employee:

"In the mind of the megalomaniacs at Kering, there exists a client that is young, thin and very affluent who likes to wear his garments close to his body."

OK, I am 29, I work out a lot, I'm not at the point yet where I can buy OTR Brioni but I'm getting close, and I wear shirt stays sometimes to keep my shirt close to the body in the back so I guess the last one kind of applies to me? If someone put a gun to my head and told me to dress as nicely as I possibly could, to me, that means a suit like the ones Brioni used to make. Now, if I had to buy a suit like that, I would go to Kiton.

I also like the point gs77 made about image. I've been reading a lot about the upcoming election and I have seen a couple mentions of Trump talking about wearing Brioni in mainstream, non-fashion news- being associated with Trump can only hurt Brioni if they want to appeal to Millennial customers. I realize that nothing I say is groundbreaking, but I wanted to add my two cents to this discussion as someone pretty squarely in the demographic that Brioni is selling their birthright to appeal to.

 

[atia2]

I see parallels with John Lobb's (RTW) recent transformations. Time will tell whether these forays from style into fashion pay off. It feels like there's not enough business to go around, so someone has to roll the dice...

 

[Aquafortis]

By the way, when you look at some pictures of their new artistic director (fellow Aussie Justin O'Shea) you see straight away the market they seem to be chasing.

I think he's pretty stylish but when I look at him I don't think Brioni.

A quote from O'Shea in his interview from the Vogue article:

"The mood of the '70s I find to be the most exciting in terms of where I live mentally."

I think that just about sums it up...UGH.