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What is the quintessential men's navy blue blazer?

AndrewST

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Hi all,

I assume the two top candidates are J. Press and Brooks Brothers. But let me know if I'm wrong!

In choosing between the J. Press navy (three button) blazer, the Brooks Brothers 1818 Madison blue blazer, and the Brooks Brothers Regent blue blazer, which would you choose and why? Cost isn't really a deal breaker. I'm wondering, though, why the BB is > $300 pricier than the J. Press.

EDIT: I forgot about O'Connell's! What are your thoughts on this? https://oconnellsclothing.com/sport-coats/o-connell-s-classic-navy-blazer-815-1-db01.html
 
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dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Can't imagine Brooks Brothers being good anymore for this sort of thing.

But it's hard to give advice because it wholly depends on how the garment fits you. It depends on the fit and silhouette, which are hard to judge abstractly without seeing the garment being worn on a specific person's body.

FWIW, for ready-to-wear tailoring, I like The Armoury's Model 3 and think it fits a wide range of body types.
 

Bavo

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Hi all,

I assume the two top candidates are J. Press and Brooks Brothers. But let me know if I'm wrong!

In choosing between the J. Press navy (three button) blazer, the Brooks Brothers 1818 Madison blue blazer, and the Brooks Brothers Regent blue blazer, which would you choose and why? Cost isn't really a deal breaker. I'm wondering, though, why the BB is > $300 pricier than the J. Press.

EDIT: I forgot about O'Connell's! What are your thoughts on this? https://oconnellsclothing.com/sport-coats/o-connell-s-classic-navy-blazer-815-1-db01.html
I would avoid the Brooks based on what I saw with their suit jackets my last store visit. They sold off all of their legacy stuff in the past few years. I suspect the pricing is just Brooks’ full price which no one pays and gets at 25-70% off.

I own this Press blazer. It’s one of their few pieces I know of made in China. I like it a lot. It’s a trim fit, while the O’Connell’s looks to be full. I would bet it’s quite nice based on my others experiences with them. The O’Connell’s and Press’ standard tropical and doeskin blazers are the classics in my opinion. But probably not for the vast majority who don’t prefer sacks.
 

BespokeBrooklyn

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I prefer brown horn buttons to gold buttons. If you go with the O'Connell's blazer, I would consider swapping out the buttons. The nautical-motif gold buttons are seem a little archaic to me, and may look a little "fuddy duddy" outside of the context of a country club or yacht club.
 

Phileas Fogg

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I prefer brown horn buttons to gold buttons. If you go with the O'Connell's blazer, I would consider swapping out the buttons. The nautical-motif gold buttons are seem a little archaic to me, and may look a little "fuddy duddy" outside of the context of a country club or yacht club.
I have 2 navy blazers that I did this with.
 

JIMIG

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I don't mean to hijack the thread, but what do you guys consider the best fabric for a fall/winter navy blazer/sport coat? Chunky/heavy hopsack? Tweed? Flannel? Cashmere blend?
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Hopsack, heavy or otherwise doesn’t sound ideal. It’s a loose, more open weave better for summer.

Doeskin is another cooler weather option.
Hopsack isn't a loose, open weave. It's just a plain weave.

I don't mean to hijack the thread, but what do you guys consider the best fabric for a fall/winter navy blazer/sport coat? Chunky/heavy hopsack? Tweed? Flannel? Cashmere blend?
I think most people get year-round navy sport coats and substitute with an option for very warm days. But if you want something for very cold weather, I would just go for one of the basic navy sport coat materials in a heavier weight (e.g. serge or hopsack).
 

Phileas Fogg

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Hopsack isn't a loose, open weave. It's just a plain weave.




 

JIMIG

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Thanks guys. Two follow up questions, if you don’t mind:

1) what do you think of a navy 100% linen SC? I am not sure if I think there is a formality clash in the fabric and color.

2) what do you think of navy flannel SCs? Particularly, how do you feel about pairing them with gray flannel trousers? Ie is flannel on flannel too much flannel when they are separates?

I am eyeing two navy suits, one in linen and one in flannel. Both soft construction and patch pockets. Would be easier to justify the purchase if the jackets would work as separates.

thanks for all the help!
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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If you consider all plain weaves to be open weaves, then yes, hopsack is an open weave. But that seems unhelpful since most fabrics are either plain or twill

Hopsack is just a plain weave, and it comes in many different styles.


IMG_0298.jpeg


For example, this is Harrison Oyster, a type of fine hopsack


IMG_0301.jpeg



This is a chunky Caccioppoli cashmere-wool hopsack set against the Harrison Oyster. Both are hopsacks.


IMG_0304.jpeg



Here is Minnis Fresco (a type of tropical wool) laid on top of Harrison Oyster (a type of hopsack). See how the Fresco, a tropical wool, has a more open weave structure. Even though hopsack is more breathable than twill, tropical wool is more breathable than hopsack.


IMG_0307.jpeg



Here are three fabrics: foreground is Minnis Mock Leno, middle is Fresco, far back is Harrison Oyster. Fabric at the front is even more porous, but it has a three dimensional structure that doesn't make it too sheer.

Plain is more open than twill, but to call a plain weave a summer fabric makes no sense to me.
 

Phileas Fogg

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Thanks guys. Two follow up questions, if you don’t mind:

1) what do you think of a navy 100% linen SC? I am not sure if I think there is a formality clash in the fabric and color.

2) what do you think of navy flannel SCs? Particularly, how do you feel about pairing them with gray flannel trousers? Ie is flannel on flannel too much flannel when they are separates?

I am eyeing two navy suits, one in linen and one in flannel. Both soft construction and patch pockets. Would be easier to justify the purchase if the jackets would work as separates.

thanks for all the help!
1) nothing wrong with that at all.

2) it could work under certain circumstances. If the pants and jacket were both plain and the same texture, I think that would look odd. A subtle pattern in the jacket may break things up a bit.


As for using the suit jackets separate from the slacks, I think you’d have an easier time doing so with the linen than the flannel. I guess we would have to see the finished product to cast final judgement.

Typically separating the jacket from the slacks doesn’t work.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Thanks guys. Two follow up questions, if you don’t mind:

1) what do you think of a navy 100% linen SC? I am not sure if I think there is a formality clash in the fabric and color.

2) what do you think of navy flannel SCs? Particularly, how do you feel about pairing them with gray flannel trousers? Ie is flannel on flannel too much flannel when they are separates?

I am eyeing two navy suits, one in linen and one in flannel. Both soft construction and patch pockets. Would be easier to justify the purchase if the jackets would work as separates.

thanks for all the help!
Am I correct in thinking that you think navy sport coats are versatile, so you want to get them in the appropriate seasonal fabrics?

Can I ask if you also live in an area with very distinct seasons?
 

Phileas Fogg

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If you consider all plain weaves to be open weaves, then yes, hopsack is an open weave. But that seems unhelpful since most fabrics are either plain or twill

Hopsack is just a plain weave, and it comes in many different styles.


View attachment 1617058

For example, this is Harrison Oyster, a type of fine hopsack


View attachment 1617056


This is a chunky Caccioppoli cashmere-wool hopsack set against the Harrison Oyster. Both are hopsacks.


View attachment 1617055


Here is Minnis Fresco (a type of tropical wool) laid on top of Harrison Oyster (a type of hopsack). See how the Fresco, a tropical wool, has a more open weave structure. Even though hopsack is more breathable than twill, tropical wool is more breathable than hopsack.


View attachment 1617059


Here are three fabrics: foreground is Minnis Mock Leno, middle is Fresco, far back is Harrison Oyster. Fabric at the front is even more porous, but it has a three dimensional structure that doesn't make it too sheer.

Plain is more open than twill, but to call a plain weave a summer fabric makes no sense to me.
I believe most people understood what I meant and the context in which in said it. I didn’t mean to assign exclusivity to hopsack of those characteristics.

The links I’ve referenced refer to “loose” and even “open”. Hopsack is not the only material to be able to claim this and I’m not a weaver or fabric engineer so my statement wasn’t meant for technical accuracy.

Most here would agree that:

A) Hopsack is an “open” or “looser” weave, in that it allows for airflow and breathability

B) That it is a good choice for summer jackets

thank you for the dissertation however.
 

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