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What is the proper length for denim jeans? (Or your preference)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by sygyzy, Jun 22, 2006.

  1. Joel_Cairo

    Joel_Cairo Senior member

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    Is it possible to hem or shorten bootcut jeans?

    I have found this tricky, because most bootcuts begin to widen at about the knee. A few years back I didn't take that into account and bought some way-too-long boot cuts for a great price, figuring I could just hem them. I ended up with straight leg jeans that flared out right at the ankle, a weird look to say the least.
     
  2. adamm411

    adamm411 Senior member

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    Well, I don't know if this is definitive or not, but I've been to a couple of tailors, and both agree in practice that jeans are hemmed so they fall just above the ground with shoes on. The younger tailor had them fall basically right to the ground. The older tailor (who is absolutely wonderful by the way) had them fall about a quarter inch off the ground, shoes on.

    I've been paying attention to this (probably more than I should, he he), and just about every woman wears her jeans just to the ground so that the hem gets stepped on or at least wet in the rain if the hem doesn't get beat up.

    This means I will have to "retire" three or four pairs of jeans I bought over a year ago. They all fall more than a quarter of an inch off the ground, varying from .5 (closer to .6" or .7"?) to nearly 1.5" off the ground with a pair of boots I own.

    Is this "highwaters" range, or still within the acceptable range?


    Adamm
     
  3. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

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    Well, I don't know if this is definitive or not, but I've been to a couple of tailors, and both agree in practice that jeans are hemmed so they fall just above the ground with shoes on. The younger tailor had them fall basically right to the ground. The older tailor (who is absolutely wonderful by the way) had them fall about a quarter inch off the ground, shoes on.

    I've been paying attention to this (probably more than I should, he he), and just about every woman wears her jeans just to the ground so that the hem gets stepped on or at least wet in the rain if the hem doesn't get beat up.

    This means I will have to "retire" three or four pairs of jeans I bought over a year ago. They all fall more than a quarter of an inch off the ground, varying from .5 (closer to .6" or .7"?) to nearly 1.5" off the ground with a pair of boots I own.

    Is this "highwaters" range, or still within the acceptable range?


    Adamm


    I think 0.7" off the ground is fine, especially for bootcut jeans.

    A lot of girls wear jeans that seem long because they're hemmed so they're to the ground when they're wearing heels. If they're wearing regular shoes then they will have extra length.
     
  4. Tarmac

    Tarmac Senior member

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    Honestly, I don't think you should listen to your tailor for style advice. He will give you the Saville Row Handbook answer. He's hemming your denim the same way as he does your grandfather's? Or you want to look like Steve Jobs?

    I have a true 30 inseam. In theory a 30x30 jean would fit me perfectly. However, I always go for 32 or even 34 length. 32 is usually too short to cuff, but still doesn't show any sock. 34 allows the option to cuff if I feel like it, and has slightly more bunching. I hate showing socks when sitting down. Sorry if that sounds dumb to some older people here, but that's what I think. 30 is too short, period, unless it's slacks. BTW, I hate dragging pants, I never EVER drag my pants on the ground. I think it's unsanitary.

    And lastly, many cult denim repros are 36 length. I think that's overdoing it for someone who has a 30 inseam, I won't wear 36 length, thats too much bunching. I pass on those.
     
  5. lowrey

    lowrey Senior member

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    the problem I have with short jeans, for example in they dont touch the floor when standing barefoot, is that when you walk the hems will probably rise to uncover your shoes and ankles and that looks really bad to me. same goes for sitting.

    for me, jeans definately have to be longer than straight pants. I definately prefer bunching over short ones.
     
  6. masqueofhastur

    masqueofhastur Senior member

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    I like mine hemmed half an inch above the floor when I'm barefoot. Depending on how I stand sometimes it'll almost hit the floor there, and I wear very flat soled shoes. I can't stand stepping on my hem, although if it gets wet occasionally I can deal with that. I wear ankle boots or shoes so it looks alright for sitting down when the hem rises a bit.
     
  7. jet

    jet Senior member

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    Shit I rock my apcs full length bunching from the knee down. Gives it character rather than looking like slacks.
     
  8. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

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    I like mine hemmed half an inch above the floor when I'm barefoot. Depending on how I stand sometimes it'll almost hit the floor there, and I wear very flat soled shoes. I can't stand stepping on my hem, although if it gets wet occasionally I can deal with that. I wear ankle boots or shoes so it looks alright for sitting down when the hem rises a bit.

    That seems a bit short. Wouldn't ankle boots have a bit of a heel on them?
     
  9. masqueofhastur

    masqueofhastur Senior member

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    My chelseas do, but I only wear them when there's a lot of snow or it's raining, so the extra height keeps them from getting wet (most of the time, occasionally they get a little wet but not enough to have it creep up the back of the leg). The cut doesn't look as great with chelseas either but since I'm wearing them in the same weather most people wear rubber boots I don't have to concern myself with the look. My wrestling shoes go over my ankle but have a flat heel, definitely no more than a centimetre, and since I wear them most of the time I like my pants hemmed to that length.

    It's also the cut apparently used in Europe. I didn't pay attention to it when I was in Switzerland last April, but that's what the lady who hemmed my cords at Ermenegildo Zegna said, and my dutch godfather said the same thing, so I'll assume it's true.
     
  10. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

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    Cool, if you like it then that's all that matters.
     
  11. whacked

    whacked Senior member

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    Word. Long jeans aren't too practical for people who wear flat-soled shoes or flip-flops most of the time.
     
  12. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Realizing that's entirely possible to wear an instead 36 when you are a 30 and use copious amounts of bunching, folding, or rolling, what is the "correct" length? I believe LA Guy says he wears his exact inseam which means that if he's standing barefoot, the very edge of the hem should roughly tough the floor, covering his ankle. This also means that when he's wearing shoes, the hem will sit 1/2-1" above the floor due to the sole of the shoe.

    In an article about denim, Mauro says that it should fall slightly above the ground. I assume he means when you are wearing shoes.



    So which is it? What do you prefer? Of course Mauro's method will result in a slightly longer inseam, maybe 1.0 to 1.5 inches. Let's assume for the sake or argument that we are not going for the gangster/hood look.


    Actually, although I always wear a size 32 inseam when one is available (5EP, Nudies, Rag & Bone, etc...) I usually wear my jeans a little low on my hips, the end result being that the perceived inseam of my jeans is about the same as Mauro's method, or sometimes even a little longer, depending on how "true" the inseam is (for example, 5EP size 30/32s actually have a 33" measured inseam) and how long the rise is. For some jeans, (I'm thinking of my SDA D1002) they have a ridiculously long inseam that have a lot of stacking going on. Any jean with a taper (I'm thinking of APC New Standards,) imo, look better with a bit of stacking (so my APCs have an inseam of 34" instead of 32"), otherwise I personally look a little unbalanced. Of course, mileage varies.
     

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