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What is the different between Hopsack and Fresco?

donnghia

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I have learn alot from styleforum, thank you so much !

Now I'm going to buy (or make) my a new Sport Coat for this hot summer, I have researched here and on the Internet and found out some best fabric for summer such as:

1/ Linen/Seersucker (but they are not well drape for sure)
2/ Linen Blend (better, but still feel soft and a little bit texture )
3/ Solaro ( I don't like its color)
4/ Hopsack
5/ Fresco

The last two I really prefer because they are "Real" wool, So I hope to learn from you what is the main differences between those 2 types of wool, what is the pros and cons of each and what do you prefer for a SPORT COAT witch Patch Pocket and more Relax Cut (not a suit) ?

Thank you !

p/s: Can we really tell them a-part in flesh just by looking at the jacket?
 

norMD

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Hopsack is a kind of weave. Fresco is a brand name for a summer wool made with wool that has a high amount of twist. (high twist wool) there are several other suppliers of high twist wool.

If you read permanentstyle guide to cloth you will learn more.
 

bc78

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One thing to keep in mind if you're clumsy like me, hopsack has a really nice texture but can snag
 

breakaway01

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This is a very good comparison
Fresco is very wrinkle resistant but also a bit scratchy and very dry feeling. Excellent for a travel jacket. It tends to be a little too fine in texture as a sportcoat IMO but you can get away with it.
One other fabric that you should look into is Mocklino (aka Mock Leno). It is a great summer sportcoat fabric.
 

dieworkwear

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Don't have much to add that hasn't already been said above. Hopsack is a type of plain weave, and plain weaves, roughly, can be described as a tic-tac-toe pattern. They differ from twills, which have ribs. It's the simplest weave. Hopsack is a slightly chunkier plain weave, although I've also seen fine versions.

Fresco is a branded name for a kind of tropical wool. It's much more open than hopsack. Tropical wool is typically made with an extra twist in the yarn, which allows it to be very wrinkle resistant.

As a consumer, I think the biggest difference is in how you may want to wear or style either materials. The chunkier versions of hopsack are good for sport coats (Harrison's Oyster is a kind of hopsack, and suitable for suits. However, when people talk about hopsack, they often refer to the kind of chunky plain weave used for sport coats).

Some people, with good reason, feel that Fresco is better for suits than sport coats. It's a very smooth material, so when it's used for a sport coat, it can sometimes look like an orphaned suit jacket. I think it's fine for sport coats if you style it a certain way -- patch pockets, swelled edge, etc.

I find Fresco to be more breathable than hopsack. Hopsack can be used for year-round wear; I typically reserve Fresco for warmer days. The chunkier versions of hopsack are better for sport coats than Fresco because they're a bit more textured. It keeps the jacket from looking like an orphaned suit jacket. Fresco is nice for travel, however, as it's so wrinkle resistant.
 

dauster

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simon crompton seems to love his wool, silk, linen mixtures for summer jackets. Any comments/ preferences vs fresco/ hopsack?
 

dieworkwear

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simon crompton seems to love his wool, silk, linen mixtures for summer jackets. Any comments/ preferences vs fresco/ hopsack?
For a first navy sport coat that you can wear year-round, I would do hopsack.

For a travel suit or a particular kind of first-navy summer sport coat, I would do Fresco.

After that, I would turn to w/s/l. WSL often has more character, but that can make it visually stand out more when you wear it, which makes it more memorable.
 

Encathol Epistemia

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I've been curious for a while what exactly a leno weave is and a mockleno, other the only way I can imagine finding any humor in Jay Leno.
 

dieworkwear

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I've been curious for a while what exactly a leno weave is and a mockleno, other the only way I can imagine finding any humor in Jay Leno.
Leno is a different weave structure. I have examples of each, so will lay them out here for comparison.

IMG_0298.JPG


Above is Harrison Oyster, a type of fine hopsack


IMG_0301.JPG



Here is a chunky wool-cashmere blend hopsack from Caccioppoli. Behind this fabric is the Harrison Oyster. Both are hopsacks, but you can see how the fabric in the foreground has a chunkier weave. Again, hopsack is just a type of plain weave

IMG_0304.JPG


Here is Minnis Fresco (a type of tropical wool) laid on top of Harrison Oyster (a type of hopsack). See how the Fresco, a tropical wool, has a more open weave structure. Even though hopsack is more breathable than twill, tropical wool is more breathable than hopsack.

IMG_0307.JPG


Here are three fabrics: foreground is Minnis Mock Leno, middle is Fresco, far back is Harrison Oyster. Fabric at the front is even more porous, but it has a three dimensional structure that doesn't make it too sheer. Also has much more texture. Better for jackets if you're worried about Fresco looking too much like suiting.
 

donnghia

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Leno is a different weave structure. I have examples of each, so will lay them out here for comparison.

View attachment 1435604

Above is Harrison Oyster, a type of fine hopsack


View attachment 1435606


Here is a chunky wool-cashmere blend hopsack from Caccioppoli. Behind this fabric is the Harrison Oyster. Both are hopsacks, but you can see how the fabric in the foreground has a chunkier weave. Again, hopsack is just a type of plain weave

View attachment 1435608

Here is Minnis Fresco (a type of tropical wool) laid on top of Harrison Oyster (a type of hopsack). See how the Fresco, a tropical wool, has a more open weave structure. Even though hopsack is more breathable than twill, tropical wool is more breathable than hopsack.

View attachment 1435610

Here are three fabrics: foreground is Minnis Mock Leno, middle is Fresco, far back is Harrison Oyster. Fabric at the front is even more porous, but it has a three dimensional structure that doesn't make it too sheer. Also has much more texture. Better for jackets if you're worried about Fresco looking too much like suiting.
Wow, those photo is Extremely helpful for a newbie in fabric like me. Many thanks again !
 

coldbrew

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I think fresco is a little too dry for a sports jacket. You may be able to get away with the Fresco Mockleno.

Reda has some really nice natural stretch hopsack which IMO is perfect for a nice casual jacket. Has the standard navy and some other interesting colours.
 

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