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What is "serge" fabric? Who makes the best version for a navy blazer?

johanm

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I'm meeting WW Chan next week and I plan on ordering a blazer. I've read that "serge" is the most classic blazer fabric. I'm having trouble finding descriptions of serge fabric on the internet. Does anyone know the exact definition of "serge" and some good fabric books for finding navy serge blazer cloth?
 

Concordia

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It's a (traditionally) heavy wool twill. You can find versions in a lot of the classic English suit books, 13oz and up. The LBD Oyster book has some nice ones. Don't know which book Chan likes to carry.
 

johanm

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Originally Posted by Concordia
It's a (traditionally) heavy wool twill. You can find versions in a lot of the classic English suit books, 13oz and up. The LBD Oyster book has some nice ones. Don't know which book Chan likes to carry.

Thanks. Other than the weight, are there any qualitative differences between serge and a 10-12 oz. twill fabric? Or would you recommend picking a different fabric weave if I wanted a slightly lighter cloth for 9-month use?
 

Matt S

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Serge is a specific weave, a 2x2 even-faced twill usually in a worsted wool. It can be made in a variety of weights. I have a serge suit from Polo that is perfect for 9-month use. Serge is indeed perfect for a blazer, and IMO the only choice for a double-breasted blazer. Single-breasted blazers are also great in hopsack.
 

greger

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Originally Posted by Matt S
Serge is a specific weave, a 2x2 even-faced twill usually in a worsted wool. It can be made in a variety of weights. I have a serge suit from Polo that is perfect for 9-month use. Serge is indeed perfect for a blazer, and IMO the only choice for a double-breasted blazer. Single-breasted blazers are also great in hopsack.

You have seen a woolen surge?
 

George

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Barathea is also another cloth often used for blazers.

For a lightweight blazer for the summer months, Fresco is probably your best option, you'll have to forgo a fine hand mind you.
 

Matt S

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Originally Posted by greger
You have seen a woolen surge?

I said usually in a worsted wool to not limit myself. A standard flannel is actually woven in the same weave but finished much differently.
 

johnny_flapjack

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Originally Posted by greger
You have seen a woolen surge?

I've seen this on several RL Polo suits and blazers. I think it's a type of twill that isn't specific to weight. The Polo *** told me that something about the way it is made causes it to be more wrinkle resistant than some other weaves. I just googled it and the description I found said that it was commonly used in military uniforms, which might explain why people could think of it as a predominantly heavier cloth.
 

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