• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

What is most reasonably priced way to get a true Neapolitan sport coat/jacket?

dylantaylormoss

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2010
Messages
113
Reaction score
15
Hello everyone,

I am a huge fan of jackets like this (especially the soft, puckering shoulder):

700



Now, I have read that this kind of shoulder/fit is almost non-existent in RTW because this construction must be individually fitted. Still, I am wondering if good MTM options exist, or, if not, what the most reasonably priced, quality option is.

Also, feel free to correct me on the off chance the Jacket pictured isn't true Neapolitan style. I am a novice at this stuff.
 
Last edited:

Murlsquirl

The Moral Squirrel
Dubiously Honored
Moderator
Joined
May 16, 2013
Messages
9,318
Reaction score
12,522
Hello everyone,

I am a huge fan of jackets like this (especially the soft, puckering shoulder):




Now, I have read that this kind of shoulder/fit is almost non-existent in RTW because this construction must be individually fitted. Still, I am wondering if good MTM options exist, or, if not, what the most reasonably priced, quality option is.

Also, feel free to correct me on the off chance the Jacket pictured isn't true Neapolitan style. I am a novice at this stuff.


Here is a bespoke tailor in Naples that offers entirely handmade RTW options through No Man Walks Alone
http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/index.php/makers/makersinfo/view/id/125/
 

comrade

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 10, 2005
Messages
8,988
Reaction score
2,286
That's Neapolitan style " con rollino" You may be confusing it
with the Spalla camicia, or shirtsleeve shoulder which has virtually
no padding.


http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?49543-Neapolitan-Shoulder-Explained

https://www.google.com/search?q=nea...oTCLSZ9uTuk8kCFc4siAodNdYD2A&biw=1348&bih=795

Personal note. When No Man Walks Alone was in San Francisco last month I tried on one of their Neapolitan
jackets which I believe was from Formosa. I wear 44R in Belvest, Isaia, Sartoria Partenopea. The sample
jacket in my "size" in no way fit across the chest and shoulders. I would try on any of their offerings, before
you order from the internet. And I have successfully purchased tailored clothing online.
 
Last edited:

dylantaylormoss

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2010
Messages
113
Reaction score
15
Seem like a trip to Italy might be the only good way. Con rollino !!
 
Last edited:

Murlsquirl

The Moral Squirrel
Dubiously Honored
Moderator
Joined
May 16, 2013
Messages
9,318
Reaction score
12,522
That's Neapolitan style " con rollino" You may be confusing it
with the Spalla camicia, or shirtsleeve shoulder which has virtually
no padding.


http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?49543-Neapolitan-Shoulder-Explained

https://www.google.com/search?q=nea...oTCLSZ9uTuk8kCFc4siAodNdYD2A&biw=1348&bih=795

Personal note. When No Man Walks Alone was in San Francisco last month I tried on one of their Neapolitan
jackets which I believe was from Formosa. I wear 44R in Belvest, Isaia, Sartoria Partenopea. The sample
jacket in my "size" in no way fit across the chest and shoulders. I would try on any of their offerings, before
you order from the internet
. And I have successfully purchased tailored clothing online.

Free return shipping. He can try them on and if they don't work out, off they go. Obviously it's not meant to take advantage of, but NMWA offers it because they realize guys should be able to try stuff on without spending money.
 
Last edited:

comrade

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 10, 2005
Messages
8,988
Reaction score
2,286

Free return shipping.   He can try them on and if they don't work out, off they go.  Obviously it's not meant to take advantage of, but NMWA offers it because they realize guys should be able to try stuff on without spending money.


Good point.
 

comrade

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 10, 2005
Messages
8,988
Reaction score
2,286

Seem like a trip to Italy might be the only good way. Con rollino !!


If you go, check w/ me so you can avoid staying at the hotel where I stayed
in Napoli last year. Although the breakfast buffet was almost worth the
the hotel's incompetence in other areas.
 
Last edited:

dylantaylormoss

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2010
Messages
113
Reaction score
15

If you go, check w/ me so you can avoid staying at the hotel where I stayed
in Napoli last year. Although the breakfast buffet was almost worth the
the hotel's incompetence in other areas.


Good food can make up for much it's true. Which hotel was it? I'm curious. If I do go it will most likely be to Rome and then to Bitonto. That is, Bitonto if Sciamat isn't a lot more money than Ripense. Not sure if Ripense is used to making jackets in exactly this kind of style. That is someone who works at Sciamat pictured so obviously it's hard to beat that for me, even though I like Ripense's work.
 

comrade

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 10, 2005
Messages
8,988
Reaction score
2,286

Good food can make up for much it's true. Which hotel was it? I'm curious. If I do go it will most likely be to Rome and then to Bitonto. That is, Bitonto if Sciamat isn't a lot more money than Ripense. Not sure if Ripense is used to making jackets in exactly this kind of style. That is someone who works at Sciamat pictured so obviously it's hard to beat that for me, even though I like Ripense's work.



Hotel Miramare
http://www.hotelmiramare.com/en/

There are some excellent hotels on the same street at more or less the same rate as
I paid in Sept. 2014.

The main problem I had with the place was:

1. They screwed up a 'city tour" I requested, suggesting a private tour at triple the price
with someone who didn't know the difference between Gothic and Baroque archtecture
and insisted on taking me to several locations where Sophia Loren lived during her rise to
stardom.
2. They had to fix my toilet about six times in two days.
 
Last edited:

SartodiNapoli

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,216
Reaction score
507
Hello everyone,

I am a huge fan of jackets like this (especially the soft, puckering shoulder):




Now, I have read that this kind of shoulder/fit is almost non-existent in RTW because this construction must be individually fitted. Still, I am wondering if good MTM options exist, or, if not, what the most reasonably priced, quality option is.

Also, feel free to correct me on the off chance the Jacket pictured isn't true Neapolitan style. I am a novice at this stuff.


This aberration is a parody of the Spalla Insellata puffy shoulder.

A well done true neapolitan jacket might cost you +-1000 euros aprox, the fashionista of the picture is completely hated by real Neapolitan tailors, the awful brand is called Sciamat. They like to profanate the real classic tailoring into a wild circus and is toltally unrespected by real tailors, serious dressers and tailoring critics.
 

dylantaylormoss

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2010
Messages
113
Reaction score
15

This aberration is a parody of the Spalla Insellata puffy shoulder. 

A well done true neapolitan jacket might cost you +-1000 euros aprox, the fashionista of the picture is completely hated by real Neapolitan tailors, the awful brand is called Sciamat. They like to profanate the real classic tailoring into a wild circus and is toltally unrespected by real tailors, serious dressers and tailoring critics. 


The work Sciamat does does certainly seem unconventional, but I admit to liking the style. Whether I can feel at home wearing it consistently is another question. Who do you recommend? I've read a quote of about 1700 euros for a loro piana sport-coat bespoke from Ripense, which seems reasonable enough given the supposed quality of workmanship.
 
Last edited:

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 92 37.6%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 90 36.7%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 26 10.6%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 41 16.7%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 38 15.5%

Forum statistics

Threads
506,865
Messages
10,592,575
Members
224,334
Latest member
Greenacrecbdusa
Top