What is most reasonably priced way to get a true Neapolitan sport coat/jacket?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dylantaylormoss, Nov 15, 2015.

  1. dylantaylormoss

    dylantaylormoss Senior member

    Messages:
    113
    Likes Received:
    13
    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2010
    Hello everyone,

    I am a huge fan of jackets like this (especially the soft, puckering shoulder):

    [​IMG]


    Now, I have read that this kind of shoulder/fit is almost non-existent in RTW because this construction must be individually fitted. Still, I am wondering if good MTM options exist, or, if not, what the most reasonably priced, quality option is.

    Also, feel free to correct me on the off chance the Jacket pictured isn't true Neapolitan style. I am a novice at this stuff.
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2015
  2. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

    Messages:
    8,984
    Likes Received:
    11,036
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    CA

    Here is a bespoke tailor in Naples that offers entirely handmade RTW options through No Man Walks Alone
    http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/index.php/makers/makersinfo/view/id/125/
     
  3. comrade

    comrade Senior member

    Messages:
    5,901
    Likes Received:
    297
    Joined:
    May 10, 2005
    Location:
    Menlo Park, CA
    That's Neapolitan style " con rollino" You may be confusing it
    with the Spalla camicia, or shirtsleeve shoulder which has virtually
    no padding.


    http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?49543-Neapolitan-Shoulder-Explained

    https://www.google.com/search?q=nea...oTCLSZ9uTuk8kCFc4siAodNdYD2A&biw=1348&bih=795

    Personal note. When No Man Walks Alone was in San Francisco last month I tried on one of their Neapolitan
    jackets which I believe was from Formosa. I wear 44R in Belvest, Isaia, Sartoria Partenopea. The sample
    jacket in my "size" in no way fit across the chest and shoulders. I would try on any of their offerings, before
    you order from the internet. And I have successfully purchased tailored clothing online.
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2015
  4. dylantaylormoss

    dylantaylormoss Senior member

    Messages:
    113
    Likes Received:
    13
    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2010
    Seem like a trip to Italy might be the only good way. Con rollino !!
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2015
  5. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

    Messages:
    8,984
    Likes Received:
    11,036
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    CA
    Free return shipping. He can try them on and if they don't work out, off they go. Obviously it's not meant to take advantage of, but NMWA offers it because they realize guys should be able to try stuff on without spending money.
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2015
  6. comrade

    comrade Senior member

    Messages:
    5,901
    Likes Received:
    297
    Joined:
    May 10, 2005
    Location:
    Menlo Park, CA
    

    Good point.
     
  7. comrade

    comrade Senior member

    Messages:
    5,901
    Likes Received:
    297
    Joined:
    May 10, 2005
    Location:
    Menlo Park, CA
    

    If you go, check w/ me so you can avoid staying at the hotel where I stayed
    in Napoli last year. Although the breakfast buffet was almost worth the
    the hotel's incompetence in other areas.
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2015
  8. dylantaylormoss

    dylantaylormoss Senior member

    Messages:
    113
    Likes Received:
    13
    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2010
    

    Good food can make up for much it's true. Which hotel was it? I'm curious. If I do go it will most likely be to Rome and then to Bitonto. That is, Bitonto if Sciamat isn't a lot more money than Ripense. Not sure if Ripense is used to making jackets in exactly this kind of style. That is someone who works at Sciamat pictured so obviously it's hard to beat that for me, even though I like Ripense's work.
     
  9. comrade

    comrade Senior member

    Messages:
    5,901
    Likes Received:
    297
    Joined:
    May 10, 2005
    Location:
    Menlo Park, CA
    


    Hotel Miramare
    http://www.hotelmiramare.com/en/

    There are some excellent hotels on the same street at more or less the same rate as
    I paid in Sept. 2014.

    The main problem I had with the place was:

    1. They screwed up a 'city tour" I requested, suggesting a private tour at triple the price
    with someone who didn't know the difference between Gothic and Baroque archtecture
    and insisted on taking me to several locations where Sophia Loren lived during her rise to
    stardom.
    2. They had to fix my toilet about six times in two days.
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2015
  10. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

    Messages:
    1,008
    Likes Received:
    378
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2013

    This aberration is a parody of the Spalla Insellata puffy shoulder.

    A well done true neapolitan jacket might cost you +-1000 euros aprox, the fashionista of the picture is completely hated by real Neapolitan tailors, the awful brand is called Sciamat. They like to profanate the real classic tailoring into a wild circus and is toltally unrespected by real tailors, serious dressers and tailoring critics.
     
  11. dylantaylormoss

    dylantaylormoss Senior member

    Messages:
    113
    Likes Received:
    13
    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2010
    

    The work Sciamat does does certainly seem unconventional, but I admit to liking the style. Whether I can feel at home wearing it consistently is another question. Who do you recommend? I've read a quote of about 1700 euros for a loro piana sport-coat bespoke from Ripense, which seems reasonable enough given the supposed quality of workmanship.
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2015

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by