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What is Bespoke - Giuseppe "Pino" Mancuso

mmkn

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Photos and text by Giuseppe “Pino” Mancuso.

Note: 62 years of experience with bespoke tailoring and styling. Core experience between 1955-1966, Milan.


Front and back cut from client’s personal pattern . . .

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First fitting, no pockets done . . .

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Second Fitting: Lapels are what the client chooses – 70’s style. Front needs adjustment for slight erect posture. Black jacket on mannequin shows a different shape for different client. In good bespoke what is important is how shaping is done – for sure this is not the “uniform” that is what many people wear today. Each suit reflects my client’s taste and personality. That is bespoke.

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Erect the back . . .

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Third fitting, with my Master Peppi Messina looking on . . .

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No should pad as requested . . .

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Third Fitting: Sleeve to armhole all sewn by hand. In this jacket I try to apply all I have learned from Peppi Messina . . .

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No change. I proceed to finish.

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Finishing details . . .

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Pressing the armhole . . .

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Jacket ready for pick up . . .

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Buttonholes done by hand . . .

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Pick Up: Happy client. No alteration . . .

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Lapel style – 70s
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On the wall my Master sees the jacket. I assume he say, “SCECCU e PROSINTOUSO.” (Loosely translate from Sicilian, “A person who knows nothing, but pretends to know everything). But in his heart he is happy to see the continuation of the work he loves.
My master use those words to push me to do better, but by the tone of his words in his heart he is happy with my work.

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vinveritas

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Where is your sartoria located? How long do you finish a suit ? Thanks in advance
 

mmkn

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In his own words . . .



- M
 
Last edited:

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