Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by johnnynorman3, Mar 21, 2005.
This question is just driving me crazy.
action back, at least to me, is a Norfolk style back. In that I mean that its a bi-swing kind of thing. I dont know how to techincally explain it. Look in an Orvis catalog, there are plenty of shooting coats that have a bi-swing back.
A loose term used to describe the back of a Norfolk jacket, which has two long box pleats running the length of the coat, and bellows pleats at the shoulders. Bascially, these are deep pleats more or less at the shoulder blades. Makes it easier to shoot grouse on the Scottish moors.
A biswing back is different. That's a jacket back with a yoke and two gussets that run down either to a waist seam or a half-belt.
Yes, true. Â Similar, but quite right, different. You hardly ever see a true Norfolk Jacket anymore. In fact, all of my "norfolk jackets" dont even have a belt. Just a half belt, sewn in, on the back.
Action back is sort of a generic term, but as a rider and shooter (skeet, not birds), an action back to me would mean the following design architecture... http://www.ljackets.com/mall/4525SIDE.htm An action back offers freedom of movement of your upper torso, shoulders, arms, and back. Lambourne is Lambourne Clothing Ltd., a UK-based clothing company (I believe located in Ipswich) that markets the prototypical riding/hacking jacket incorporating this design, also usually made with a heavy tweed cloth, a 3-button front, and angled pockets. Tally ho. Grayson
Quick postcript, that while Lamboune is at the lower range of shooting jackets, Charles Gale, at the upper range, is a highly respected maker of bespoke shooting jackets... http://www.charlesgale.co.uk/pages....g.html# Grayson
Funny - I've always heard the phrase "action back" in association with bowling shirts (and particularly shirts produced by Nat Nast). The shirts have the same pleats at each shoulder blade as Manton described for a Norfolk jacket, with basically the same purpose (easier to roll the bowling ball without the back of the shirt tugging at and restricting your arm, I guess - I haven't bowled in years, and I was probably wearing a tee shirt when I did).
I can say, from personal experience, that an "action back" or "bi-swing" or Norfolk Jacket back is extremely comfortable, and really does make it easy to move your arms around in any manner you chose. Im a huge fan of Norfolk jackets, and I wore one today. Its a RL MTM 3 button, single vent, patch pocket version, with a half belt (which technically voids it from being a true Norfolk jacket. This particular one is a deep brown/tan mini herringbone, and I wore it with a pair of Paul Stuart thin wale corduroy trousers.
Practically speaking, those who shoot would find a bi-swing pleated back the most useful. Â Candidly, I think someone showing up these days for a shoot in a Norfolk jacket, which was originated by the Duke of "Norfolk" in the early 19th century, might elicit more than a few snickers as it's rather anachronistic. Â In other words, you'd be "shooting yourself in the foot". But, hell, Ralphie is a billionaire, so who am I to judge?.
If your appetite is whetted for a Lambourne Hacking Jacket w/action back, it can be obtained from several sources, such as below. Price is modest, so most should be able to "hack" it... http://www.sierratradingpost.com/product....ept_id= Grayson
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