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Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by MrDaniels, Jul 9, 2013.
has anyone mentioned 2013?
Wow, that's so bad it belongs over in the creepy images thread.
Or: they all were.
The 50s saw the popularistion of artificial fibres, and a pared-down economy look that was driven not by style but by economics.
The 60s continued that.
You were in Britain in the continuation of post war austerity. I visited London
in 1961 and the average Londoner's clothes looked worn and dreadful,
except in the posher precincts of the West End, etc where I saw the Savile
Row styles that I had only seen in the movies. In the US, in contrast,
the economy was booming. Men's clothing was the antithesis of a
"pared-down economy look" For a certain expanding demographic the
Ivy League style was sweeping the country. This style had largely been
worn previously by graduates of elite Eastern Universities and the monied
WASP classes. In the fifties it became the domiant style of the respectable
middle classes. Even "Show-Biz" types wore flashier versions of the styles
which originated in the Colleges and Clubs of the Eastern Seaboard.
Of course, formalwear must be mentioned...and in that case I am certain nothing can top the 70s as the worst era...
Faded color photos of couples getting married with the guy in an all white polyester tuxedo decorate the tops of Admiral TV consoles across America. Ruffled shirts, of course.
That's making me rethink slanted pockets. I want nothing to do with that picture.
I think slanted pockets look great when you are in the UK. But when you get back to the US they just don't quite fit in IMO.
Hacking (or riding) pockets can be stylish and look great if done tastefully (e.g. no contrasting piping or other nonsense) on a well tailored suit or sports coat. That the 70's was a dreadful era of fashion excess should not deter someone from a small, and otherwise elegant, styling detail.
A few years back, I'd have said the '70s--hands down! These days, I think the present-day suits (the fashionable ones, anyway) are definitely the worst. At least the '70s stuff fit reasonably well. These contemporary abominations all look as if they were shoplifted from the boys' department. They flout all canons of proper tailoring by having the quarters bi-secting the wearer's fly and ass. The only "men " they are really suitable for are anorexic teenagers.
As to the question of hacking pockets, I like them on my tweed jackets, but I have always felt they were somewhat "off" on conservative business suits--just too equestrian, but then I suppose most classic menswear has been heavily influenced in its development by horseback riding--from the tailcoat on down.
Looking at the presidential portrait of Gerald Ford posted earlier, it struck me as a little odd that he's wearing a Balliol College tie! One of my very closest friends is a relative of his.
Good fellows, my comment on hacking pockets was merely meant in jest.
My first suit was from Roger David, a cheap Australian suit OTR suit shop for my formal in 2008. It wasn't great (70/30 wool/poly blend, fused, heavy shoulder padding) but it wasn't inherently bad either - it gave me a slim fit i needed without looking like a spiv for formal occasions.
This is how all menswear has gone in Australia. I get the smaller lapels work for the gawky pin head teenager, but for everyone else it just looks bad.
Penis shoes, tiny collared shirts which never come in a plain weave, skinny ass ties with designs meant for a space movie...
You can tell the designers just don't get sartorialism, are focused on the woman's range and just cobble together menswear based in whatever they see in GQ.
Of course there is a counter culture to all this, but unless you're ordering off the internet or going to the 1-2 stores run out of capital cities you're not going to see it.
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