What Has Been the Worst Era for Men's Suits?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by MrDaniels, Jul 9, 2013.

  1. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,019
    Likes Received:
    20,961
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    Seems pretty standard:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  2. ethanm

    ethanm Senior member

    Messages:
    10,623
    Likes Received:
    3,607
    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2011
    Location:
    أرض العزم
    Regarding Rothstein, this is what I read "Rothstein was the Moses of the Jewish gangsters, according to Cohen, the progenitor, a rich man's son who showed the young hoodlums of the Bowery how to have style; indeed, the man who, the Sicilian-American gangster Lucky Luciano would later say, "taught me how to dress."
     
  3. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

    Messages:
    1,925
    Likes Received:
    542
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2013
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC
    I have more than one jacket with 2.5" lapels - one vintage - and I wear skinny ties. My groomsmen and I looked like this at my wedding (and thanks for giving me another excuse to post the picture; I have a bit of a problem).

    [​IMG]

    But, on the topic, obviously the 70's were the worst era for suits. Right now, I think we are at the beginning of a renaissance of wonderful, classic styling in suits. The skinny lapels are working their way out of fashion, and peaks have made a strong comeback. Pants are fitting well again, among those that know what they're doing when they dress - mine below are an off the rack pair from Brooks Bros, so hardly exotic, but they just plain fit, and are made with a reasonable rise. I hope it all also spills over into Tuxedos, as well.
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2013
  4. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,019
    Likes Received:
    20,961
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    I suspect "style" and "how to dress" are speaking to the broader field of proper decorum. This did probably extended to how one dresses, but in this he was simply transmitting his own upper class upbringing (rather than creating any sort of new style to be associated with gangsters).
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2013
  5. mactire

    mactire Senior member

    Messages:
    378
    Likes Received:
    65
    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2011
    I think you've hit on what I subconsciously like about them, they're not as ridiculously big as the 80s, but still have a bit of a noirish feel to them or something. One of the last shows where everyone wore suits until the current revival I think.
     
  6. MisterFu

    MisterFu Senior member

    Messages:
    471
    Likes Received:
    178
    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2013
    Location:
    New York City
    The morning suit will always get a thumbs up from me (I won't even nit-pick the non-standard pattern on your pants as I am so glad to see that somebody still knows how to dress for a daytime wedding). Frankly, I think it's time to bring back the stroller for daily wear ;-) .

    I think you are right about a renaissance of sorts. A lot of it is driven by the fascination the public has with period television shows such as Boardwalk Empire, Downton Abbey, etc.. I have had a couple of suits with double breasted waistcoats that I thought would remain unique in this modern age. Yet starting last year, I see Paul Stuart, Ralph Lauren and now even Suit Supply all selling the double breasted waistcoat. If I had to venture a guess, it's in no small part thanks to the DB vests sported by Nucky Thompson in season 2 and 3 of Boardwalk Empire.

    One strange side effect of this rediscovery of menswear by the public is that we are seeing an astonishing array of styling elements making a simultaneous comeback. Edwardian, Jazz Era, Mad Men; you name it and it's out there right now. My hope is this doesn't turn into the bizzaro-world of the 1970's where they attempted to integrate 20's and 30's themes with baroque elements (test-pattern jackets with giant hacking pockets and shirt ruffles). So far though, a lot of the stuff I am seeing in the last 18 months is pretty damn excellent.

    [​IMG]
    Ralph Lauren Purple Label
    [​IMG]
    Paul Stuart Phineas Cole
    [​IMG]
    Suit Supply
     
  7. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

    Messages:
    1,925
    Likes Received:
    542
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2013
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC
    I made a conscious decision to hi toward the more obscure, but traditional, check pattern. There is a long history of wearing check trousers with morning dress, it just hasn't been seen much since the mid 20th century. I assure you, my details are all absolutely correct. Plys I can wear these pants way more often than cashmere stripe. I also considered chalk stripe.
     
  8. EFV

    EFV Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,225
    Likes Received:
    12,491
    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2011
    Location:
    Stockholm, Sweden
    Bumping this thread because it's an interesting subject.

    Going back through the (now widely available thanks to Google pic search) centuries of menswear you can find what people have considered silly fads in each era. It's best illustrated by actually posting pictures of the good and the bad of each era, by a highly personal sense of taste of course. Let's start from the 40's:

    40's

    Hasn't aged with grace:

    [​IMG]

    Good:

    [​IMG]

    50's

    Hasn't aged with grace:

    [​IMG]

    Good:

    [​IMG]

    60's

    Hasn't aged with grace:

    [​IMG]

    Good:

    [​IMG]

    70's

    Hasn't aged with grace:

    [​IMG]

    Good:

    [​IMG]

    80's

    Hasn't aged with grace:

    [​IMG]

    Good:

    [​IMG]

    90's

    Hasn't aged with grace:

    [​IMG]

    Good:

    [​IMG]

    00's - present

    Will not age with grace:

    [​IMG]

    Good:

    [​IMG]


    So, what can be deducted from this?

    Nothing really, but even though the 70's and early 90's saw an outbreak in widespread use of horrible menswear, every era has seen both crap and greatness. The common denominator of the successful looks seem to be an adhering to classic measurements, colours and fabrics. Even though we can clearly tell that the Cary Grant suit would look dated worn today, it doesn't make us laugh either.
     
  9. MrDaniels

    MrDaniels Senior member

    Messages:
    3,663
    Likes Received:
    422
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2006
    I am still going with the Late 80s/ Early 90s.
     
  10. NefariousSabatour

    NefariousSabatour Senior member

    Messages:
    290
    Likes Received:
    120
    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2010
    
    hilarious
     
  11. size 38R

    size 38R Senior member

    Messages:
    1,651
    Likes Received:
    741
    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2012
    The current era. for sure.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by