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What fabric is this coat made of?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Morthwyl, Apr 6, 2016.

  1. Morthwyl

    Morthwyl Member

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    I’m trying to identify the fabric used in this frock coat, any information on the material or type of weave for the fabric or piping would be helpful. It’s a modern coat rather than an original, vintage piece. I was told by someone that it’s made of moleskin but I doubt it as it’s like no moleskin I’ve ever seen.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    To me it looks like the underside of a barathea wave, probably in mohair or mohair blend. It looks very close to my Smith wollen ones, used in a pair of replacement trousers that had to match a jacket made with the underside facing out.
     
  3. Morthwyl

    Morthwyl Member

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    That’s a very good call, I didn’t think about the fabric being reversed. I had a look at the underside of some moleskin I have at hand but the weave on that isn’t the same as the picture, unless different manufacturer’s moleskins use different weaves I think that is pretty much ruled out.

    Anyone have any ideas about the piping? It looks kind of like grosgrain or petersham but neither of those seem exactly right.
     
  4. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    It looks like a very traditional woollen cloth from which frock coats are made. To judge by the frayed button hole it is a garment of some years.
     
  5. Morthwyl

    Morthwyl Member

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    I agree that it it’s most likely made of a woollen fabric rather than anything else, Edwardian era frock coats were typically made of wool so it’d make the most sense. Unfortunately most frock coats I’ve seen seem to be made of smoother or more twill-like fabrics.

    The buttonhole was well spotted; the coat was used as an outfit for a character caught in the crossfire of a war so a slightly battered look was required. It was made specifically by the costume department using a Laughing Moon pattern; hence all the distressing has been done artificially.
     
  6. palk

    palk Well-Known Member

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    It looks to me like a hopsack weave of a worsted wool.
     
  7. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    The reverse side of barathea looks like an hopsack with a slightly offset effect. Will take some pictures later from my fabrics
     
  8. Morthwyl

    Morthwyl Member

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    Thanks for all the input, I think hopsack weave/barathea is either the correct fabric or at least a very close alternative. Any pictures would be much appreciated.
     
  9. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    Sorry, just crappy iPhone 6s picture. Top half of the picture is the reverse side with the angled basket/hop sack like. The bottom side is the facing side/barathea rib
    [​IMG]

    Ps: it is the same fabric and colour, just the lighting makes it look different
     
  10. Morthwyl

    Morthwyl Member

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    Thanks for the photo, it's hard to tell for sure but I think it's the best lead so far. I've found a place that stocks dark green barthera so I'll order a swatch, even if it's not an acceptably close shade of green it'll at least give me opportunity to examine the weave first hand.
     

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