What fabric for a summer jacket?

[Melcombe]

I'm planning a new sports coat for summer use. I'd really welcome suggestions on fabric : i had intended linen, but I cant find a suitably heavy fabric without 'slubs' in it.

I'm intending a half lined single breasted design and want a darker plain fabric to make it in. I did inherit a linen jacket some years ago (I'm now too fat to get into it) that was made of Moygashel linen, but I understand that this is no longer made?

That type of linen would have been perfect, but of course now I want the impossible- a fabric with some body to it, but which is cool to wear. Durability isn't a major issue, but i would like something that ages well.

Any ideas?

 

[Nicola]

Originally Posted by Melcombe

I'm planning a new sports coat for summer use. I'd really welcome suggestions on fabric : i had intended linen, but I cant find a suitably heavy fabric without 'slubs' in it.

What sense is there to wanting heavy linen for a summer jacket?

 

[patrickBOOTH]

10 or 11oz fresco. The weave is very cool wearing, however the weight makes it drape nicely.

 

[TheFoo]

Fresco for an odd jacket? Unless you want a summer blazer, that doesn't sound right to me.

But then the real answer is to not do a summer jacket at all. When during the summer are you going to need to wear a jacket, but not a suit? I'd get a fresco or linen suit with patch pockets. Then you can conceivably wear the top alone when needed.

 

[ter1413]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Fresco for an odd jacket? Unless you want a summer blazer, that doesn't sound right to me.

But then the real answer is to not do a summer jacket at all. When during the summer are you going to need to wear a jacket, but not a suit? I'd get a fresco or linen suit with patch pockets. Then you can conceivably wear the top alone when needed.

good pts...

 

[Cary Grant]

I've an unlined navy hopsack that is pretty wrinkle proof, wears very light, is durable.

 

[Axel Ferguson]

Originally Posted by ter1413

good pts...

He asked for an odd coat, not a suit. I'm sure he's aware they exist.

 

[Manton]

The two best summer jacketing books that I am aware of are Hardy Riviera and Lesser lambswool by Carlo Barbera. The latter is one closeout now and hard to get but it's great stuff. Very light, however, at 8 ounces.

W Bill, H&S, and several others make 14 ounce linen, no slubs, if that's really what you want. I would die in it personally but you might be cold blooded.

If you get linen, consider doing it as a suit and just wearing the jacket odd when you want to.

 

[NOBD]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

When during the summer are you going to need to wear a jacket, but not a suit?

Almost every day.

 

[Achilles_]

Maybe a linen/silk blend? Or a linen/cotton blend?

I'm wearing my linen/silk (92/8) SC today and it seems to resist wrinkles surprisingly well!

Then again, silk is warm so if the content is too high it will probably be too warm.

You will of course want it unlined I assume?

 

[RogerC]

Originally Posted by Manton

The two best summer jacketing books that I am aware of are Hardy Riviera and Lesser lambswool by Carlo Barbera. The latter is one closeout now and hard to get but it's great stuff. Very light, however, at 8 ounces.

W Bill, H&S, and several others make 14 ounce linen, no slubs, if that's really what you want. I would die in it personally but you might be cold blooded.

If you get linen, consider doing it as a suit and just wearing the jacket odd when you want to.

Riviera will be discontinued as well. Anything not in stock anymore now will not be restocked.

 

[Melcombe]

Wow. Some serious knowledge here (I expected no less!) and many thanks for the contributions. I shall seek out the H-S and Bill linens when I'm in London next, they might be just what I'm after.

Regards

David

 

[radicaldog]

There is slubby linen. In Italian we call it linone. I found some at Il Vecchio Drappiere in Milan (thanks to Jefferyd's suggestion). Otherwise find a hemp mix, or even 100% hemp (I just made a coat with a hemp cloth from a Drapers book, but it's not as slubby as hemp can be). Shantung silk is also slubby, though it wears hotter.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by NOBD

Almost every day.

You work somewhere that requires you specifically to wear a jacket, but not a suit? It seems to me that a suit would work in any situation formal enough that you'd feel obliged to wear a jacket in hot weather.

 

[Gus]

I would go for the suggestion of a silk/wool/linen blend for fewer wrinkles and warm weather comfort. The other option is a very lightweight "tropical" wool if you can find one.

Cotton/linen is good and comfortable but not dressy. It is for a bit more of a casual looking suit or jacket.