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What exactly is a soft collar?

savvyibd

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I own some Kiton shirts (OTR) and I have had many shirts made via Bergdorf. I still don't understand what is meant by Kiton's "soft collar". I know Kiton uses a lot of marketing hype, but Anna in Napoli is suppose to be well known for her soft collar. I really don't want to travel back to Italia unless it's absolutely worth it, so can somebody tell me what exactly do they mean by a soft collar? Sure, my Kiton shirts are softer - but that's because of the thread count imo (and I prefer a heavier shirt so it doesn't rip as easy as Kiton or Charvet).

Is it not having the collar stays? Does anybody remove them? Is it because the cuffs and collars aren't fused? What exactly is a "soft collar"?

And are there options in America for a real bespoke shirt (the thing I like most about BG's MTM shirts is the high armpit hole and the good fit as I have an unusual body shape), which doesn't require traveling to Italia? Or something decent in London?

I'm open for suggestions. With that in mind, how are Rubinnaci's shirts? I am not sure he does custom shirts, but I guess he does.. I could go to London and have them made - I just don't want to travel to Italia if I don't have to. I'm in Zürich at the moment, so if there are any tailors here you'd recommend, I'm listening.

Thanks.
 

Manton

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It means either that there is no interlining between the two layers of cloth in the collar (this is true for, say, oxford cloth button downs) or that the interlining is very, very soft (probably what Kiton means).
 

savvyibd

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And having no interlining, does it make a huge difference in shirts? In honesty, I find my BG MTM shirts much more comfortable than Kiton's.
 

Manton

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Originally Posted by savvyibd
And having no interlining, does it make a huge difference in shirts? In honesty, I find my BG MTM shirts much more comfortable than Kiton's.

I think most dress shirt cloth is too thin to work with no interlining. Certainly, I never come accross that. It works with oxford because the cloth is so sturdy already.
 

Johnathan

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Just wondering, what makes a soft collar so preferable?
 

Manton

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Originally Posted by Johnathan
Just wondering, what makes a soft collar so preferable?

I like they way the roll and sort of move with you. They can be more comfortable as well.
 

TheFoo

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Another thing that distinguishes some soft collars is the lack of fusing although there is an interlining.
 

Manton

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Originally Posted by mafoofan
Another thing that distinguishes some soft collars is the lack of fusing although there is an interlining.

Good fusing can still be very soft, though I agree that softness is mostly associated with non-fused collars.
 

Gus

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Originally Posted by Johnathan
Just wondering, what makes a soft collar so preferable?

Some guys like a stiff, starched look. I used to like it as well (1980's and 90's) and got my shirts laundered with starch. But over time I've come to enjoy the look and feel of a more relaxed, soft collar. I think it reflects an attitude that is more relaxed and appealing.
 

Cary Grant

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I actually appreciate my new MTM shirst more after the umpteenth washing for just that reason- collars start too stiff, stays or no.
 

Manton

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Soft collar, softest interlining the maker carries, unfused, no collar stays:



See how it is "uneven" and not straight? I like that.
 

coolpapa

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Originally Posted by Manton
I think most dress shirt cloth is too thin to work with no interlining. Certainly, I never come accross that. It works with oxford because the cloth is so sturdy already.

I've tried it on a couple of shirts from Hamilton, and it doesn't work.
 

Manton

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Originally Posted by savvyibd
That's Anna, correct?

Mine? No. Geneva, NYC.
 

lordofpi

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Originally Posted by Manton
Soft collar, softest interlining the maker carries, unfused, no collar stays:

See how it is "uneven" and not straight? I like that.


Still going stay-less, huh? I like the concept, and I've tried it a couple of times. It just seems like my collar points flare upward after a while. By late in the day, they stand up and out like a pair of hard nipples. Am I digging my chin into my shirts too much, or are they just cheap shirts, or ought I to just stick with collar stays?
 

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