What do you think?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Styleman, Feb 20, 2005.

  1. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Center vents are "incorrect" and seriously bad on DB coats.   They completely throw of the symmetry.  If you buy that coat, I strongly recommend having the vent sewn up.  On that kind of lean silhouette, no vents would probably look better than two vents in any case.

    Just curious: do you see many DB coats with center vents in the UK?  I thought only Americans were sartorially out of touch enough to do that.  All the DB coats I see in London are double-vented.
     
  2. Brian SD

    Brian SD Moderator

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    (Brian SD @ Feb. 20 2005,19:20) Not much handwork.. One thing wrong with it is the center vent. Why pay $800 for a DB without dual vents? You can always sew up the center vent but you cant add the side vents..
    Obviously you preffer side vents. Why is that? (I tend preffer centre vents or no vents, but perhaps that's because I own more dual vents, so central vent seems more 'new' to me)
    Always prefer dual vents. I have no problem with a center vent on a tweed jacket or grey SB suit, but from my understanding center vent on a Double Breasted is a big no no. I am not educated to the rules, but can speak on terms of general aesthetics. The front has no center divide, it is essentially divided into four spacial sections. If you have one center seam in the back but no side, its contradicting the front and throwing off the balance of the suit.
     
  3. Styleman

    Styleman In Time Out

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    No, you don't see many, but there are a few arround with centre vent. But then again, not from British houses, only on imported clothing, bearing in mind that Gucci, YSL, McQueen, Prada, etc. are very popular amongst the younger Londoners.
     
  4. Sevcom

    Sevcom Senior member

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    Designer DBs often come with centre vents; I've seen more than a few Jil Sander and Valentino suit coats with them. Why, I dunno.
     
  5. Brian SD

    Brian SD Moderator

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    I think the color is my favorite quality of this suit. If I had the money, I wouldnt let that stop me.
     
  6. Brian SD

    Brian SD Moderator

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    It is one of the few aspects I ever disagree with Jil on [​IMG]
     
  7. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Use the BIN. It's not substantially higher than the starting bid, and sometimes the bidding wars get vicious, esp. for smaller sizes (the Japanese bidders can get crazy.) As for the workmanship, it's Zegna, just like the Gucci, so no difference there.

    I like center vent too. The double vented, British (faux or otherwise) styling is rapidly becoming much too ubiquitous (when J.Crew makes them...) Personally, I am leaning towards a sort of designer take on classic American - i.e. slim jackets with short skirts with center vents.

    Oh, and the texture is amazing.
     
  8. Styleman

    Styleman In Time Out

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    Designers tend to do things just to be unique, regardless if it looks good or not.
     
  9. Brian SD

    Brian SD Moderator

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    I dont think it has so much to do with wanting to be unique. Not like they decide "Oh hey everyone else is doin one thing, lets do something different." That's your job.

    Agree with LA Guy that I like the shorter skirt, single vent thing going on with designers recently but not on a Double Breasted.
     
  10. Styleman

    Styleman In Time Out

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    From what you gather, what would be the ideal style of suit for my body? (5'11", 36" Chest, 60 Kgs. 29" waist, 14.4" collar)
     
  11. amirrorcrackd

    amirrorcrackd Senior member

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    (Manton @ Feb. 20 2005,19:29) Center vents are "incorrect" and seriously bad on DB coats. Â They completely throw of the symmetry. Â If you buy that coat, I strongly recommend having the vent sewn up. Â On that kind of lean silhouette, no vents would probably look better than two vents in any case. Just curious: do you see many DB coats with center vents in the UK? Â I thought only Americans were sartorially out of touch enough to do that. Â All the DB coats I see in London are double-vented.
    From what you gather, what would be the ideal style of suit for my body? (5'11", 36" Chest, 60 Kgs. 29" waist, 14.4" collar)
    Long and slim. Size 36, ideally something cut like a Dior Homme. Helmut Lang, Prada, Jil Sander, Costume National, YSL, RLBL, etc. Slim, structured, levelling shoulders, nice waist suppresion, and a slight flare to the coat. Flat front, uncuffed, slim fit trousers. I would say a generous break, but that is up to you. Many would disagree. Dan
     
  12. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    To be precise, I would need to know more: general physique, leg line v. torso, location of waist, etc. But from those numbers, you seem ideally suited to wearing anything you want. I would stay away from anything really draped and "widening": e.g., a light brown PoW tweed DB suit is probably not a great idea. But almost anything else will be fine.
     
  13. johnapril

    johnapril Senior member

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    I am not sure what was meant here. I will say from experience the Gucci and YSL pieces will be fused and the Zegna will be canvassed. Give that as much significance as you wish in deciding. I like all three suits, the DB is the most interesting, but I'd never pay $800 for it.
     
  14. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Gucci group suits are outsourced in Zegna, at least according to some people I know who used to work for Zegna.
     
  15. johnapril

    johnapril Senior member

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    This "relationship" would not, however, determine anything about how Gucci suits are put together.
     

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