What do you think of these shoes?

[scottlit]

Hi all,
I'm looking to add a third black shoe to my rotation (I have a couple of pairs of brown shoes I work in as well, but I prefer to wear black when in court). Right now I have a pair of black AE Mora's (double monkstrap), and a pair of black AE Weybridge's (medallion toe balmorals). I'd like to add a pair of bluchers/derbies to the mix as well (can anybody explain to me the difference between the two?). I was looking at these:

They're from Moreschi, apparently made out of nappa leather. I really don't know anything about nappa leather -- all the rest of my shoes are calfskin, so if anybody can explain what exactly this stuff is and the pros and cons that would be great. Can it be treated and polished like calfskin? Is it corrected grain?

Also, what does everybody think of these from a style perspective?

Thanks,
Scott

 

[DocHolliday]

Bluchers and derbies are different names for the same thing. Nappa leather is made from lambskin/sheepskin.

I don't care for those. Don't see any need for black bluchers, and the toebox is too flat and square.

 

[scottlit]

Bump. Is too flat and square the general consensus?

 

[AdamInSF]

They'd be passable w/dark jeans for an evening out perhaps, but for court wear? I'd keep looking. If you really want/need a 3rd pair of black dressier shoes, a need I certainly do not share, maybe get a nice simple black captoe, since both of the shoes you have are a bit embellished via either their type (Moras) or punching (Weybridge, which I have in brown and quite like)

 

[emmanuel]

I would not buy them for myself. If I saw them on someone else I wouldnt think anything of it. Not enough for me to hate them, not enough for me to like them. You can do better.

 

[Imperator]

Flat, square, generally inelegant. You can do better.

 

[sf_esq]

Why not consider the Crockett and Jones Westbourne in black. Similar, but more classic and elegant looking, IMO.

 

[scottlit]

Thanks guys! That's the sort of feedback I was looking for. I tried on the Weymouth and some other C&J's last summer at the T&A store in midtown Manhattan, but couldn't really find a last that fit me very well (especially in the handgrade) unfortunately. I have a narrow heel, which can make a really good fit hard to find at times, though my Weybridge's and the oxblood Santoni FAM semi-brogues I have do a good job of it.

Any recommendations for a good quality shoe to fit the bill? And not AE Park Avenues. They're nice, but I'd like to try something a bit more stylish than that if possible.

Thanks!

 

[DocHolliday]

Have you considered Martegani? They have both classic and updated designs -- the latter might be what you're looking for. Ron Rider, the U.S. rep, posts here, and he might be able to help you with the fit issue.

 

[sf_esq]

Originally Posted by scottlit

Thanks guys! That's the sort of feedback I was looking for. I tried on the Weymouth and some other C&J's last summer at the T&A store in midtown Manhattan, but couldn't really find a last that fit me very well (especially in the handgrade) unfortunately. I have a narrow heel, which can make a really good fit hard to find at times, though my Weybridge's and the oxblood Santoni FAM semi-brogues I have do a good job of it.

Any recommendations for a good quality shoe to fit the bill? And not AE Park Avenues. They're nice, but I'd like to try something a bit more stylish than that if possible.

Thanks!

The Westbourne is on the 348 last, which fits my narrow foot better than the 337 last (handgrades), which is far too wide for my foot. Also, check out some of the Romano Martegani shoes at www.francos.com. I don't own any, but they are closer to the aesthetic of the shoe pictured above and may have slightly less of square toe. Just a thought. Good luck.

 

[scottlit]

Thanks. I will definitely check out the Westbourne next time I'm up by the T&A store. It looks like a good looking shoe from the catalog on Plal. Anybody have any idea what a 10.5 D in the AE Weybridge's would equate to UK size-wise on the C&J 348 last? 9.5 UK?

 

[teddieriley]

some people report full size down, others do half. 348 last is narrower than 337. you might find the fit you are looking for with 348. ask plal to send you both sizes and send back the one that doesnt fit, if you dont plan on being in nyc anytime soon.

 

[ManofKent]

Originally Posted by scottlit

Bump. Is too flat and square the general consensus?

I'd need to see a better angle to judge how square toed they truly are - if they're a more elegant chisel toe than the front shoe angle suggests they could look quite nice. It's difficult to tell from that angle.

 

[Spatlese]

Originally Posted by DocHolliday

Have you considered Martegani? They have both classic and updated designs -- the latter might be what you're looking for. Ron Rider, the U.S. rep, posts here, and he might be able to help you with the fit issue.

Originally Posted by sf_esq

Also, check out some of the Romano Martegani shoes at www.francos.com. I don't own any, but they are closer to the aesthetic of the shoe pictured above and may have slightly less of square toe. Just a thought. Good luck.

+1. I have a pair of the more 'forward' marteganis (with a relatively flat / square toe), but imo still preferable to these.

 

[dkzzzz]

Bad leather bad last , random broguing.