- Jul 8, 2004
- Reaction score
What are your opinions on a DB navy blazer (yes, with gold buttons)? I love SB blazers but I'm unsure about the DB.
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Love 'em. The DB is the true or classic blazer. The SB is derivative, and some purists will still maintain that it is incorrect. Just make sure that two front buttons can actually button, i.e., that the button stance is either 6-on-2 or 4-on-2. 6- or 4-on-1 are abominations.What are your opinions on a DB navy blazer (yes, with gold buttons Â)? Â I love SB blazers but I'm unsure about the DB.
Buttoned always when standing. It's permissible to unbutton when sitting, but if the coat fits and is cut well, you shouldn't have to.Do you guys always keep those DBs buttoned when you march around? Â What is the etiquette on that?
Not exactly. I assume you are referring to the essay on the blazer in Elegance. Boyer attemtps to unearth the origin of the term "blazer." He cites a possible explanation: the awning striped SB jackets worn to play cricket in the tropics (for example) were so brightly colored that they were said to "blaze." As he points out, this might be true, it might not. But the blazer as we know it -- dark blue doeskin or serge with metal buttons -- is definitely DB in origin. SB blue coats with metal buttons are knock-offs of this.Manton, according to, I believe, Bruce Boyer the single breasted blazer has its origins as a club jacket, thus they were developed in different contexts, but each has its own legitimacy. As a club jacket, the sb breasted blazer were different colors, which we can see from, say, winners of the Masters golf tournament.
I saw a picture of a blazer fan in one of the lifestyle mags-- Town and Country, perhaps-- who opined exactly as you are thinking, that brass buttons were too flashy to be effective in the evening. He used the black bakelite jobs with anchors, which I think you can see on Benson & Clegg's website, under nautical buttons. I'm becoming inclined to agree. My only DB navy blazer in use now has somewhat textured brass buttons, which softens the effect a bit.I have been thinking of having W.W. Chan make me a DB navy blazer with BLACK metal buttons. My thinking is that it would look considerably less nautical and flashy than brass buttons, especially since I am a fairly large, imposing man anyway. Any thoughts on this?