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What do I need altered?

otc

Stylish Dinosaur
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I got this BB 1818 Madison on ebay with 30% cashback for a good deal expecting to do some alterations (considering the cut on these suits). I was pleasantly surprised with the fabric, it's a navy herringbone saxXon wool that feels pretty nice.



-That back shot looks frightening and may have had some weird posture going on but my shoulders are broad and pretty square so I am going to need to lower the collar.
-How are the sleeves? the shirt I am wearing has sleeves that are too short so I cant really tell
-I was planning on having the body taken in a bit, hopefully a good tailor can give it a bit of a slimmer look?

as for the pants I would say they could be a bit shorter (and maybe let out a bit) but I might save that for my mother to take care of over the holidays or wait if I decide I want them recut (double pleats...
)

What should I be asking the tailor to do? Thanks!
 

lee_44106

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The most egregious problem I see, base on your three photos, is the shoulder. In that suit your shoulders looks too build up. With your square and broad shoulders you should wear jackets that have little to minimal padding.

A competent tailor maybe able to fix the shoulder pads by removing them, but it's big surgery. My guiding philosophy when it comes to jackets is that the shoulders must fit right off bat.
 

Zenny

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Fix the shoulders first. I concur with lee_44106, as the shoulders look really padded. You could stand to slim the body down a little (the suit's
) and make sure you get atleast 1/2" of cuff showing. Id lessen the break of the pants by a tiny amount, but thats completely personal.
 

otc

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Thanks for the input guys.

It sounds like taking out shoulder padding is a complicated procedure...how much does something like that run. If I don't reduce the padding right away and get other alterations (take it in, lower collar), will they all have to be redone if I get some padding removed?

-
Thanks
 

otc

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I found this quote in an old thread:
Originally Posted by Despos
The result will vary and it depends on the slope of your shoulders and the slope of the jacket shoulder. if your shoulder has a regular slope and the jacket shoulder slope is cut for a regular shoulder and has a medium size pad, say 1/2" thick, when the pad is removed, there will be a 1/2" gap between your shoulder and the jacket. This will cause the jacket to break and wrinkle under the arms and blade. If you have high, squarish shoulders and the jacket has a regular slope, your shoulder will fill in the gap and the jacket fit will be improved. If the jacket is cut with square shoulders, removing the pad will not soften the cut. You will need to do major surgery. As the shoulder really defines the silhouette, shoulder expression is best discussed and defined in detail when commissioning MTM or bespoke clothing.

Would the bolded section apply to me since I have pretty square shoulders? Taking the pads out in my case is definitely a fit issue rather than style (lots of threads recommend against trying to alter the big power suit shoulders) so I feel like this is a good sign.
 

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