Discussion in 'Social Life, Food & Drink, Travel' started by Fabienne, Jan 31, 2005.
Definitely something I'll make again.
was it y our recipe or from a book?
From a book. I mean, I don't really follow directions well, but the basic recipe was something I found.
deets? i like the idea, like to see what else is there.
That looks very good matt.
passard does this in his little book. I thought it was with fresh cepes though... Matt's version looks great. WIll have to try because I can't find fresh porcini anywhere out here yet...
Edit: apologies...now that I'm home I double checked and I'd misremembered Passard's cepes recipe - it's different than Matt's (fresh cepes, thyme, lemon, garlic, white pepper)
I poked around epicurious. No luck.
Went to a wine tasting dinner at Daniel tonight. The sommeliers from all of Daniel Bouluds' restaurants in Manhattan, along with the sommelier from Café Boulud in Palm Beach, were there. Each brought a selection of two wines to pair with each of five courses.
The reception was about a half an hour. Hors d'oeuvres included "Citrus-Cured Fluke with Shiso Cream" (very tasty), "Mille-Feuille of Smoked Salmon and Cream Cheese on Pumpernickel", "Vodka Beet-Cured Hamachi with Horseradish Cream" (probably my favorite), "Snail Cromesquis with Sweet Garlic", "Vegetarian Roll with Hearts of Palm, Espelette Pepper Sauce", and finally "Wild Mushroom Pomponette with Fontina" (which was excellent). We were served two different Champagnes to go with all of this: Pierre Moncuit Les Mesnil-sur-Oger, Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru 2004; A. Margaine Villers-Marmery "Special Club," Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru 2004.
First course was a Duck Terrine with a Marcona Almond Crust served with a Honeycrisp Apple Confit which was quite excellent. This was served with a J.J.Prüm Riesling Spätlese from 2009 and a Leitz Reisling Spätlese, also from 2009. These were both phenomenal. I have become a big fan of Riesling.
Next course was "Crispy Scottish Langoustines, Old Chatham Yogurt, Minted Cucumber, Lime Gremolata". Again, excellent. I had eaten this same dish a few visits ago, but I can't complain about being served langoustines twice. This course was served with two different white Burgundys, which were very interesting: Domaine Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Saint Aubin 1er Cru "En Remilly" 2009; Domaine Antoine Jobard, Meursault 1er Cru "Genevrières" 2008.
Third was a "Duo of Veal" with "Caramelized Sweetbreads and Braised Lettuce", "Tenderloin with Black Trumpet and Crispy Potato". Sweetbreads were a tad dry, but the tenderloin was perfect; It was clearly cooked sous-vide. The braised lettuce, however, was stuffed with a brunoise of carrots that I can undoubtedly say would not live up to the scrupulous standards of SF. This was paired with two red Burgundys: Domaine-Sylvain Cathiard, Chambolle-Musigny "Les Clos de L'Orme" 2006; Domaine Dujac, Chambertin Grand Cru 2007. The Dujac was excellent, but a women at our table ended up calling the sommelier over to replace hers as she complained it was very flat. I was sitting next to the same professor I had sat next to last month at the Riesling dinner, and he explained how letting the wine sit and breath would help to "open" it up. He held on to the wine until the next course and it was markedly more expressive in taste after about 15 minutes.
Next was "Grouse with Huckleberries, Brussels Sprouts, Parsnips and Barberry Jus". This was my first time eating grouse. I thought it was wonderful; the berries paired very well with the gaminess of the bird. The breast was served along with the legs, shredded and stuffed. With this we had two selections from the Rhône: Domaine Guillaume Gilles, Cornas 2007, en magnum; Domaine Pierre Usseglio, Châteauneuf-du-Pape "Mon Aïeul" 2006, en jeroboam.
After the grouse, Chef Daniel came out and challenged all of the tables, and his sommeliers, to a blind taste test of two different wines. This was very entertaining. None of the tables guessed right, and the sommeliers couldn't even venture a guess. However, Daniel was able to correctly guess a Morgon Beaujolais that was given to him to taste blindly.
Finally, the cheese course. Which included Tête de Moine, Vieux-Comté (my favorite), Langres, and Bayley Hazen Blue. These were paired with two very nice whites: La Stoppa, 'Ageno' Indicazione Geographica Tipica 2006, Emilia; Domaine Berthet-Bondet, Vin de Paille 2002, Côtes du Jura. Yet again, the same lady who sent back the Dujac requested the cheese be paired with different wines; she requested a red. My friend, the professor, explained to me how whites go with cheese, especially blue cheese (unless it's Port), much better than reds. I'd agree. I was also annoyed by this particular ladies' constant badgering of the sommeliers. I can see if something is distinctly wrong with the wine, but just because you don't like it doesn't mean you should send it back.
Petits Fours were served with two dessert wines: La Roncaia Picolit 2007, Colli Orientali del Friuli; Corte Sant' Alda, Recioto della Valpolicella 2008, Veneto. The Picolit was outstanding.
After service ended, I was able to talk with Daniel privately; I was thrilled that he remembered me. I showed him a picture of a recipe of his that I made at home. He gave me three very enthusiastic "bravo"s and wished me good luck. This really made the night.
ask him for a job
Thanks for the write up, mgm. Sounds like a nice evening.
BTW, isn't Daniel at risk of losing is liquor license by serving you? Better keep this on the down-low.
the "white wine is much better with cheese than red wine" statement is baffling to me, but I guess I've never tried to notice.
also, while I know a number of his sommeliers and am happy to attest for their great taste, opening up a 2007 Chambertin from Dujac is even more baffling. Sorry, but this is giving me the need to rant, and I can't imagine that wine would be anywhere's near ready and I'd bet you that the old woman commenting on it being "flat" was absolutely right. If it really opened up as much as you imply simply by sitting in the glass, then I wonder why wasn't it decanted for 2 or so hours before. I had a 2000 Dujac Charmes Chambertin two weeks ago, and it also opened up "flat" with pretty much nothing before needing at least an hour to really develop. But, the vineyard I had is not as esteemed or long-living as your Chambertin, and more importantly 2000 is noted for burgundies that are much more approachable in their youth (somebody else noted this in the wine thread). The somms should absolutely know this and I can't help but think they took a "this audience wouldn't care and/or wouldn't know better" approach to serving it.
edit: Manton also (kindly) reminded me that serving too-young wines at dinners like this are fairly typical since the mature versions are too expensive.
Wasn't this a tasting event? They always open young wines at those because bottles are more plentiful and cheaper. It's not ideal but the alternative is impractical. And, anyway, for many people this is the only way to get to taste wines like that.
I've had some absurdly young 1st gwth Bords that I could make nothing out of but still I'm glad I had the chance.
so the reason they'd serve a too-young prestige wine instead of something like a '96 Grands Échezeaux (I had one from Mongeard Mugneret at Daniel last year and it was $250 and wonderful) is because they know the audience would prefer to clammor over the prestige wine than to be served something that is mature and approachable? I am dissapoint.
Also, M&M, you should ask that woman out on a date. It sounds like she has good taste (and that is not entirely meant in snark).
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