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What causes this shoulder crease?

Get Smart

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I was trying one of my vintage jackets and this particular one has bugged me since I got it because this crease from the lapel forms down the chest when I wear it. I can't seem to figure out what is causing this. The shoulders fit fine, they arent too small, overall the jacket fits perfect, except that this crease/wrinkle forms when I put it on. It has high armholes so maybe that's causing it?

Any suggestions on what the problem could be appreciated. I drew a picture to illustrate (the 2 circled areas) since i don't have anyone around to shoot a pic.

 

Quirk

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I think your bigger problem is that the sleeves are too short.


Nice sketch, actually. I've seen problems in that area on jackets before, and I've usually assumed it's an issue of sloppy fusing. Other than that guess, I have no clue.
 

Toiletduck

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I don't have any proper input, but

wow you draw pretty well.
 

Get Smart

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It's def not a fusing issue as this vintage jacket is full canvas, as many/most jackets were 40-50 years ago. (and the pinch test confirms)

I read a back post from Whoopee stating that this kind of indentation could be caused by slightly too small shoulders, altho it feels fine and not tight at all when I put it on. Perhaps an un-noticeable amount (.5" or less) is causing the indentation, but without feeling tight?
 

Get Smart

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Originally Posted by Toiletduck
I don't have any proper input, but

wow you draw pretty well.


haha thanks, i literally drew this in about 2 seconds....but I have a bachelor fine arts degree and I draw for a living
 

whoopee

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The shoulder wrinkles to which I was probably referring don't look like this. Those would be akin to the shoulder getting scrunched like an accordian. I'm not really sure what is causing this. It might have something to do with the shoulder slope being off near the neck and too much fabric being in that area.
 

itsstillmatt

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Sometimes it comes from shoulders that are more forward than the shoulders of the jacket.
 

Get Smart

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Originally Posted by iammatt
Sometimes it comes from shoulders that are more forward than the shoulders of the jacket.

That's definitely possible. If I push my shoulders back a bit, it smooths out the indentation.
 

Despos

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Could be so many things. Possibly your shoulder slope and the jacket shoulder slope do not match. Try to post a pic. Your drawing is not specific enough for a specific response. Even though it is a good drawing, as previously noted.
 

Alias

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Originally Posted by iammatt
Sometimes it comes from shoulders that are more forward than the shoulders of the jacket.

Either this or what Despos said.

You should draw some sketches for Manton. ;p
 

Holdfast

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Nice sketch!

I had a similar issue on a recently purchased suit, though the creasing was less on the shoulders and more on the front of the jacket. This was a DB rather than SB, if that makes a difference and the creasing was fairly obvious because the fabric was 100% silk and in a light colour.

In my case, the jacket is currently undergoing major surgery to correct it. It needed a combination of a whisper more padding on one shoulder (the slope variance Mr Despos has mentioned above, no doubt) and also removal of some material out of the front of the jacket requiring a fairly hefty recut. Not particularly cheap but worth it for this particular purchase.
 

dah328

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Originally Posted by Despos
Could be so many things. Possibly your shoulder slope and the jacket shoulder slope do not match. Try to post a pic. Your drawing is not specific enough for a specific response. Even though it is a good drawing, as previously noted.
Despos, your posts are very informative. I have two jackets from one of the cheaper order-by-mail outfits that exhibit very similar creases. I suspect it's just another case of "you get what you pay for" when it comes to cutting.

dan
 

Get Smart

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Yea I think it's the collar not cooperating with my neck base, and with the two at odds it's causing that slight indent. Thanks for the replies, glad you liked the quick sketch (to my surprise!)
 

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