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What causes this fold across my chest? No tailor can figure it out.

teknique22

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this mainly happens when the Shirt is buttoned.

Could it be yoke too small? Collar too tight? Square shoulders?

Thanks.

8AF0EA26-4056-42D1-AB20-5446B529D43A.jpeg


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C3EEB4E1-0D55-45A5-98AA-479A52A865F7.jpeg


56526693-9570-4D7F-9893-CB40A915A052.jpeg
 

FlyingHorker

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Was this posted on AAAC by the way?

Is it a Spier & Mackay shirt?

My first thoughts were neck posture being the issue.
 

teknique22

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This is a S&M shirt and it’s odd that it’d be posture because I’ve never had a shirt do this before. It may be because the collar buttons are too tight? It would appear the issue is not as bad if I open the collar more. Just curious how this could happen. Perhaps adding tie space would do the trick?
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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this mainly happens when the Shirt is buttoned.

Could it be yoke too small? Collar too tight? Square shoulders?

Thanks.

View attachment 1172155

View attachment 1172156

View attachment 1172157

View attachment 1172158
I'm having trouble figuring out how to obtain the fit in the attached pic.

What I don't want is the picture of the guy in the tie - as you can see the midsection is aggressively tapered and the hip flares out, causing billowing at the waist line from the excess fabric in the waist.

What I do want is the Shia look - you can see the shirt goes cleanly and seamlessly in a straight line from armpit into waist, with out billowing outward and no clear midsection taper (too slim).

I don't know if this is a function of darting the lower back, having an equal hip and midsection measurement + darts, shortening the shirt so the hip doesn't need to flare out as much, or simply moving the waist line of your shirt lower than most are set at so that it drops exactly at the true "pant line" rather than "waist line".

Can someone advise? Thanks

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Please do not even waste time posting any unhelpful comments relating to 'burn this shirt' or 'the fit is horrible' or anything unrelated to the main issue at hand; it's literally pointless, will not be followed or considered and is generally not even what I'm interested in discussing at this moment.

There are two issues with this shirt that I am interested in learning what the cause is, as it appears on many shirts that I own; that is,

- Puckering behind collar
- Slight, horizontal fold across one half of my chest

Anyone know what causes either?

Thanks!

View attachment 1097604

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This is a picture of the shirt on both my body and hanger, as you can see there is a crazy "roll" on both sides of my upper shoulder area. I was told this may be due to "forward shoulders" but I honestly don't see how that's possible considering the same roll is present on a hanger.

View attachment 1141560

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I admire your commitment to starting threads with the same question over and over.
 

teknique22

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I admire your commitment to starting threads with the same question over and over.
Admire your commitment to completely missing the fact that I’m asking a completely different question than anything you took the time to link from my previous post.

In case you didn’t read, the previous issue was behind the collar. This issue is a horizontal fold across the front chest. Two separate flaws. One shirt.

But thanks for your comment - really adds to the conversation.
 

FlyingHorker

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Admire your commitment to completely missing the fact that I’m asking a completely different question than anything you took the time to link from my previous post.

In case you didn’t read, the previous issue was behind the collar. This issue is a horizontal fold across the front chest. Two separate flaws. One shirt.

But thanks for your comment - really adds to the conversation.
:D I actually misread and thought this was about the collar again too.

If it's the fold across chest, I think that has to do with mismatched slope. Your shoulders may be more square than the shirt shoulders

It may still have to do with neck posture. Can you get us a side view picture so we can see your neck posture?

https://propercloth.com/reference/pulling-across-the-upper-chest/

"Look closely for any signs of Square vs. Sloping shoulders. If the pulling lines are running from the top button up exclusively towards the top of the shoulders (and not also down to the armpits) then a square shoulder adjustment should help.


If there are no signs of square shoulders, meaning the lines are running equally to the shoulders and towards the armpits or your shoulders show symptoms of BOTH sloping and square shoulders, then square shoulders may not be the correct adjustment. In this case, we suggest applying the “Neck Posture Forward 1 inch” adjustment instead."


I see a line only on one side. Perhaps your one shoulder is more squared than the other one? My guess would be a combination of adding a "neck forward" and "square shoulder" adjustment on future shirts.
 

saskatoonjay

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I love that “no tailor can figure it out.” Because you’ve been to Savile Row and Napoli and Hong Kong with this shirt.

There’s nothing like an unsolvable mystery.

Except this: you ordered it from @spiermackay — a small MTM house that’s committed to nailing the fit on the shirts they sell, with people who handle issues like yours all the time.
 
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Aloysius16

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I ordered some S&M MTM shirts recently and had the issues you have separately reported about the ridge/roll either side of the collar. We tried a few iterations to get this fixed but nothing worked (inc. a forward shoulder adjustment) so I guess it is a more fundamental issue in their pattern. Like you, I also noticed the ridge when the shirt was on the hanger, unlike any of my other shirts. They were great to deal with though, even though it didn’t work for me,
 

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