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What causes folds in jacket sleeves?

silylether

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I have this OTR black suit jacket (Banana Republic) that gets strange folds in the upper arm sleeve when I wear it; I feel like it might be due to fit issues, but I'm new to all of this and I haven't seen anyone talking about similar issues online. Does anyone know what the problem might be, and what I can ask a tailor to do to solve this? Or is this just how OTR suit jackets fit? It looks kind of unfortunate, especially from certain points of view, but I only recently started learning some aspects of how to judge the fit of a suit, so maybe I'm over-interpreting a few folds in the clothing.

Here are two pictures, for reference. You can see the folds in my left arm's sleeve in the three-quarters view. It's less noticeable in the front view, though the photo quality is much worse there (I apologize; my mirror kind of sucks).
1o17bd.jpg

oppa42.jpg


Just as context, I'm trying to assemble a stroller for my wedding, but it's quite hard to find a suit jacket that fits me OTR (and I'm a poor grad student, alas...). I have this suit jacket from attending another wedding as a groomsman, so I thought I could reuse that jacket for my own wedding. Even so, I have my doubts about the fit of the jacket, as it was a rush purchase before the other wedding (not having a black suit, which was the request).
 

Catalyst

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Looks like poor stitching from the tailor/factory, and it makes you look like a hobo.

If the shoulders don't fit properly, there's not much you can do. Most everything else can be tailored out.
 

acecow

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It's hard to tell from the photos, but seems that the jacket is too big for you.
 

silylether

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Just to clarify for Catalyst and Acecow, the shoulder width mostly seems to fit me, unless it's subtly wrong in a way that I'm not identifying. There's no "curtain" effect across the back, and if anything the jacket threatens to have a collar gap, which I think I've read is an indication that the jacket could be too small. When I get the chance, I can post a photo from the back (with better lighting, I hope), if that would help. EDIT: Ok, here's a picture from the back; I tried to blow out the levels of the picture a bit so that it isn't just a giant pane of black.
25ai0ih.jpg
But I guess the sleeves are draping weird, so something obviously doesn't fit right. So the jacket is too big? I've tried sizes smaller and they're waaay too small. There does seem to be weird bunching in the shoulder-blade area, though, so is it too big in that part? For Catalyst, what's the distinction between poor stitching vs. good stitching that makes a difference? Is it the angle the sleeve is attached to the shoulder? Would fabric quality make any difference with this?
 

Catalyst

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It just looks to me like the sleeve was twisted a little and sewn on that way, or the openings are too large for you. The back fits you well.
 

silylether

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Thanks. I assume that the former is something a tailor can fix, and the latter is not?
 

Canal Directo

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^ +1
 

silylether

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Thanks, now I can search the rest of SF and figure out how to talk to the tailor!
 

Despos

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You want a tailor that is capable of making a garment to fix this, not an alterations only person. The sleeve size and shape does not match the armhole and needs to be recut to the correct shape. Time consuming, make sure you know what it will cost before you do the work.
 

phxlawstudent

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Originally Posted by Despos
You want a tailor that is capable of making a garment to fix this, not an alterations only person. The sleeve size and shape does not match the armhole and needs to be recut to the correct shape. Time consuming, make sure you know what it will cost before you do the work.

Not worth the cost for BR suit.
 

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