What body type looks best in a Neapolitan shoulders/jackets?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Soph, Jun 10, 2006.

  1. Soph

    Soph Senior member

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    I would think the best would be a fairly athletic build with some shoulder development. I can't imagine a tall, skinny, lack of musculature would look as good in as a more defining structured suit. As a business suit also, which is where alot of us wear suits, does it convery an authortative, strong business look?
    ReEdit--- Athletic does not mean ARNOLD, I consider Michael Jordon in his prime atheltic and muscular to a point. No exaggeratered frames. Just fit with some sublime muscularature.


    --Just some random musings concerning this.

    Some Basics which alot of us are somewhat famaliar

    1. Pad less or in US brands-hybrids, lesser amounts than traditional fair

    2. "'Waterfall' sleevehead.

    3. Spalla camicia, or “shirt shoulder.”
    (This style, while very beautiful and elegant, appears somewhat casual to me, great for oddjackets, but does it convey the serious overtones of business? If you are in shape?, if not? hmmm.) Very clean, sophisticated, and elegant though.

    Share your thoughts...
     
  2. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    FWIW, I don't think that guys with a lot of musculature look good in tailored clothing. That is one of teh reasons that the t-shirt and jeans look has accelerated at the same pace as the gym-guy look.
     
  3. Jovan

    Jovan Banned for Good

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    I'll have to agree. Plus, a lot of muscle just isn't attractive. Period.
     
  4. tiger02

    tiger02 Militarist

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    I'll have to agree. Plus, a lot of muscle just isn't attractive. Period.
    Say the skinny guys [​IMG] I have a choice between being fat or being fairly muscular. Right now I'm somewhere in between.

    Unless you're talking about chicks. Then I completely agree.
     
  5. Soph

    Soph Senior member

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    Whoa,

    When I'm talking muscular, I'm not talking Arnold here folks.

    Athletic does not equal bodybuilder.
    I consider Michael Jordan Athletic and muscular in a lean, fit way.
     
  6. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    FWIW, I don't think that guys with a lot of musculature look good in tailored clothing. That is one of teh reasons that the t-shirt and jeans look has accelerated at the same pace as the gym-guy look.
    Short of a Mr. Universe-type physique, I don't think that's true at all. Even then, Arnold's managed to find a tailor that fits him well.

    I don't think the Neapolitan silhouette is best suited for someone with a V-shaped torso. I think the more military-inspired British silhouettes suit a V-shaped body better.

    dan
     
  7. Soph

    Soph Senior member

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    FWIW, I don't think that guys with a lot of musculature look good in tailored clothing. That is one of teh reasons that the t-shirt and jeans look has accelerated at the same pace as the gym-guy look.

    ---Key point is "a lot". That's not why I really mean. Think naturally muscular, fit and athletic. Not Bodybuilder.
     
  8. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    I tend to think that once you venture past what is great natural proportion (think Michaelangelo's David), you no longer have the chance to look elegant. For some reason, you can be fat and elegant or skinny and elegant.

    Setting the line at David, you have a lot of room to be in very good shape before you cross over.

    Personally, I think that a lot of short, slightly soft older men look smashing in Neapolitan suits. Look at Vittorio di Sica in "It started in Naples". You often read comments on this site about only certain body types being able to pull off certain looks. I think that is rubbish (unless you are into streetwear). The peope of Naples come in many different sizes, and the tailors there make them look great, or OK or terrible regardless of their size.

    I don't think that the military cut looks good on anybody, but that is just my opinion.
     
  9. Soph

    Soph Senior member

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    I tend to think that once you venture past what is great natural proportion (think Michaelangelo's David), you no longer have the chance to look elegant. For some reason, you can be fat and elegant or skinny and elegant.

    Setting the line at David, you have a lot of room to be in very good shape before you cross over.

    Personally, I think that a lot of short, slightly soft older men look smashing in Neapolitan suits. Look at Vittorio di Sica in "It started in Naples". You often read comments on this site about only certain body types being able to pull off certain looks. I think that is rubbish (unless you are into streetwear). The peope of Naples come in many different sizes, and the tailors there make them look great, or OK or terrible regardless of their size.

    I don't think that the military cut looks good on anybody, but that is just my opinion.



    Excellent point.
     
  10. Soph

    Soph Senior member

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    I would agree edit to a point but I'd say you can be a bit more muscular than even david. And the majority of women prefer a look that is similar if not a tad more than below, David is also in a more natural postion, not flexing as we commonly see the idea of muscular men as Arnolds. I do venture into this by the luck of nature and hardwork. I will agree the Italians-Naples- (generalization, please take it with a grain of salt) have refined, not originated, an incrediblty elegant cut.

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Soph

    Soph Senior member

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    Tyson is a fairly musuclar guy at a fair height and he does look good to my eye in this:
    [​IMG]
     
  12. ollie

    ollie Active Member

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    I still don´t see one sophs questions answered : is the neapolitan "shirt shoulder" to casual or informal for a suit that can be worn in the evening for a nice dinner or for more formal events?
    I ask, because i plan to order a mtm Caruso suit in dark grey/charcoal which is supposed to be an all around suit. I really like the shirt shoulder but i am not sure of its versatiliy...
     
  13. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    I am not sure that anybody will care one way or the other about your sleevehead as far as your business or personal life goes.
     
  14. thinman

    thinman Senior member

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    As a charter member of the tall, skinny, lack of musculature (especially in the shoulders) club, I agree with Soph that the Neapolitan silhouette looks best on certain physiques and mine is not one of them. Sure, Kiton jackets are supremely comfortable, but I much prefer a roped sleevehead a la Brioni to give my shoulders some structure.
     
  15. Soph

    Soph Senior member

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    A big man looking better with a suit, isn't this one Maton's examples of what fine tailoring can do no matter what one's size?

    [​IMG]
     

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