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What are the greatest menswear brands of all time?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by YoungAmerican, Sep 18, 2012.

  1. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    I would put Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane way up near the top. It is mostly over now, but the things made at Dior under Slimane were the real spark for many things - it could argued that no other single force really moved menswear the way Dior Homme did with Slimane. Dior Homme heavily influenced the mainstream men's casual look (and even suit looks) for almost a decade and people are still wearing fragments of things that may not necessarily be Dior Homme, but definitely stylistic derivatives of such.

    Some of these other lists are just laundry lists of brands people like. There is no 'greatness' about them.
     


  2. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    I think most would agree that Dior Homme is a SW&D brand. Aren't we talking MC stuff only here?
     


  3. Fraiche

    Fraiche Senior member

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    Ed Hardy.
    Affliction.
    Hugo Boss.
    Express.
    Tommy Hilfiger.
    Calvin Klein.

    and my favorite
    Alfani.
     


  4. hendrix

    hendrix Ill-proportioned

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    Hard to ignore Helmut Lang as well from what i've read, at least in terms of influence.



    Sorta agree.

    I mean, there are the brands like Barbour or Burberry or Levis or even Clarks that initially had some product of innovation that had quite an impact on the menswear landscape, and then there are the luxe RTW brands that didn't really contribute anything meaningful except to serve a customer base that was interested in high end RTW.

    So it really depends how you define "Greatness".
     


  5. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    A small one. About 100 words per company. It's meant to be a short, brief, fun read, so the descriptions don't have to launch into long defenses.


    I agree, I think the definitions of greatness and menswear here are really vague. I don't know if the website has given any parameters. I personally would be interested in defining greatness as influence, not recognizability, and menswear in broad terms, not just "MC", but I don't know what the site wants. I also know more about "traditional" brands than I do other stuff.

    Incidentally, I know I've already mentioned this twice on the SW&D side of the board, but I still think we should have a "definitive SW&D reading list" thread. Broken up into various categories. Basically some kind of syllabus for people who are interested in this stuff as a topic. I'd love to read a serious book on Helmut Lang or Yohji Yamamoto, for example, but don't really know where to turn.
     


  6. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    However both Dior and Lang have had a far wider influence on menswear.
     


  7. hendrix

    hendrix Ill-proportioned

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    It'd definitely be useful to have such a resource.

    I'm one of many who are essentially recycling what we've heard from other more experienced users. There are very few members who actually were around when Helmut Lang was still "OG Helmut" or whatever. Moreover, I don't find most Raf collections particularly inspiring (apart from amazing 2005 collection) because I wasn't aware of the fashion landscape when they came out, and looking back is always a little different.

    Maybe rather than books, links to articles and reviews? It would be hard to continuously edit though...could be done as long as the search function works well and the thread rules are clear.

    re Helmut Lang, pickpackpockpuck posted this in the Runway discussion thread

     


  8. AMG1

    AMG1 Senior member

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    This discussion will be difficult. I guess Anderson&Sheppard, Poole and Huntsman should be up there, as well as Ralph Lauren, Kiton and Oxxford, Hermès for leather goods and scarfs, Loro Piana and Dormieul for their fabric, Ferragamo probably, as well as EG.
     


  9. bellyhungry

    bellyhungry Senior member

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    In the same vein....

    Helmut Lang
    Gucci with Tom Ford
    Dior Homme with Hedi Slimane
    Prada

    No one mentioned Hugo Boss yet?
     


  10. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    Seriously influential and undoubtedly a name that everyone recognizes, whether or not it's taken that seriously by many here or not.
     


  11. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    As a brand and as an individual: Luciano Barbera?
     


  12. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    How can I not mention levi's for their jeans designs and fit, I believed most man in the world will at least own one pair of levi's during their life.

    Obviously the brand also did great evil, they deprive many men from great fit, and arguably more comfortable daily dress trousers.
     


  13. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    Great evil? As far as I'm aware, unlike Hugo Boss, Levi's didn't dress the Nazi SS or anything...
     


  14. bourbonbasted

    bourbonbasted Cyber Eliitist

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    Are you making the argument that the brands listed don't deserve a place? Rolex has created the most iconic and copied men's watches of all time, not to mention they are listed as the world's most valuable luxury brand. Peal set a standard for RTW English benchmade shoes and, once acquired by BB, made it possible for the everyday American to purchase well-made British footwear conveniently. LL Bean popularized the Bean Boot and Norwegian sweater in America, they revolutionized the catalog clothing movement and have been a staple for all outdoorsmen for decades. Luxottica owns the most recognizable men's eyeglass designs in world from brands like Ray-Ban, Persol, Oakley and Oliver Peoples. I'll agree that S&A and Charvet are a bit of a stretch.

    Again, this just raises the question of what constitutes a great brand. If it's influence over the industry or men's fashion as a whole, then your list will be vastly different than if you're just trying to cater to the "legendary" brands. You also need to remember that the truly "greatest" menswear brands will be those that affect and cater to a much larger population than iGents and SF members. A lot of the brands listed here are only known or appreciated by a very small amount of the population. So, again, how ubiquitous does a brand have to be to make it one of the greats? I'd argue very.
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2012


  15. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Regarding Peal: I'm almost positive that BB bought the brand name only, the label on the shoes has absolutely nothing to do with the workers or workshops that once produced Peal and Co shoes
     


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