1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

What are the best shirting fabrics?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by pglover19, Jun 29, 2014.

  1. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,336
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2003
    Location:
    NYC
    

    recently met with the head of sales at Alumo
    bought a number of things for stock and received the swatch books
    even picked up a few more engineered pleats for formal shirts.

    the swatch book is classic. they do stock some seasonal patterns as well.

    the fabrics are expensive, but the quality is solid.
    most of the line is in 100/2 and 120/2.
    expensive compared to other mills.
    but
    the fabric is dense and well constructed.
    no games involving compact yarns and resin finishes.

    worth the price as the shirts will last a long time.

    the bedding project could only be made in a facility that has very wide looms.
    i don't think alumo has these looms
    My italian source will turn out a beautiful product.
     
  2. Hirsh

    Hirsh Senior member

    Messages:
    2,487
    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2013
    

    Which mill do your Italian shirtings come from?

    Sleeping on Thomas Mason shirting bedding would be gorgeous, although I'd still prefer the Alumo 100s to be honest:)
     
  3. Gianvittorio

    Gianvittorio Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2014
    Riva, Monti, Canclini, Thomas Mason, Albini... and all egyptian cotton. But actually i don't know where to buy...i choose the cotton fabric to my shirtmaker folders....
     
  4. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

    Messages:
    1,813
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2007
    Location:
    Hong Kong / Darien
    Anyone know the U.S. distributor for Canclini?
     
  5. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

    Messages:
    1,001
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2013
    You got very nice taste as Anna Mattuozzo told me in person about you.

    I hope you feel better btw.

    I will chose Riva and then some Alumo, not all.
     
  6. qelfulres

    qelfulres New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2014
    Adding to the above Grandi & Rubinelli, Bonfanti, Sic Tess, G&R is hard to beat in terms of value for money.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2014
  7. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,336
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2003
    Location:
    NYC
    Canclini has shifted most of their production to eastern Europe and China. Not the best fabric. Tip top has some of their fabric. They have a new agent based on the west coast
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  8. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

    Messages:
    1,001
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2013
    Yes, even has some random good lines, the shrinkage huge compared with the rest. We had to add some extra ease due to it.
     
  9. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

    Messages:
    2,226
    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2011
    Location:
    Finland
    Pglover19, the very word shirting, perhaps best popularised by Alan Flusser in his many books, means a shirt fabric. No need for "shirting fabric" or "suiting fabric" and so on.

    As for the best, well, Carlo Riva's name is thrown in the air often, but their shirtings are hard to come by unless you buy a Kiton shirt. Alumo is always great, Thomas Mason has a nice range.

    The best fabric is the one that serves your intended use best, while also ageing nicely and bringing pleasant sensations when worn and handled. Even superior weaving technology is just marketing if the end result displeases intended use.
     
  10. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,336
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2003
    Location:
    NYC
    Just had 8 Thomas mason shirts come back to be adjusted. The sleeves stretched 2" he was using a commercial laundry of my recommendation. The white was sovereign. Anyone else have stretching sleeve issues
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. Mute

    Mute Senior member

    Messages:
    1,108
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2004
    Location:
    L.A.
    

    I have only used Silverline Thomas Mason for my shirts and they've never had a stretching issue. However, the most recent of these is at least three years old so I can't comment on any of the recent offerings. I have a Goldline shirt being made right now and I'll see if the sleeves stay consistent in length after a few washing.
     
  12. sangiuseppe

    sangiuseppe Senior member

    Messages:
    146
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2013
    
    I had a shirt made with Thomas Mason shirt, but my experience as the opposite, it shrank so much that is unwearable
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

    Messages:
    1,001
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2013
    Mason is very overrated and overpriced with their Zegna like aggressive marketing fooling their are the best while are mediocre. I hate Mason, very fashion forward designs as well that date the next season.

    I called their agents, asking only for their DJ Anderson book as told them i wasn't interested on the rest and they used as example of good tailoring the worst ever tailors, also asked for my private client list that is an inmoral and ilegal thing. Also wanted me to have only Mason, i told i work with the best as Riva and could not have a narrow and lesser selection while i have the best. They went angry.

    I contacted the headquarters thanks to my friends and denunced the agents. My advise is to jump textile agents as possible, not only got not a clue about what they are handling, but lie, fake, and take money from you just by redirecting your email order to the factory.
     
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2014
  14. antoniod11

    antoniod11 Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2014
    Grandi & Rubinelli, Bonfanti, SicTess, Alumo, Monti, Albini, Testa, Albiate, Thomas Mason, DJAnderson, Somelos, Canclini, Getzner, Eugster-Huber.

    I think that's pretty much it.

    Many people don't know but Thomas Mason, Albiate and D.J. Anderson belong to Albini Group.

    I think Monti is not very famous but they have great fabrics.

    The same with Somelos, I recently spoke to a shirtmaker who told me it's their favourite Mill at the moment.
     
  15. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

    Messages:
    1,001
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2013

    First time I hear Somelos.

    Any info?
     
  16. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,336
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2003
    Location:
    NYC
    

    Portuguese mill. They also have a mill in Brazil. the Brazilian made fabric is for south America.

    good quality. I have not used them in a long time. I don't like the Agent based in the USA.
    I know they have an in-stock program.
    Prices are a little lower then italy.

    there was a MIll in Spain Named Textiber. they made beautiful fabric.
    their 120's were almost as nice as Alumo. supralux. Sadly out of business.
    I have been told there is another Spanish mill producing comparable quality, but I have yet to see samples.
     
  17. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

    Messages:
    1,001
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2013
    Textiber is broke?

    I didn´t like it, their agents were wise guys believing they were Carlo Riva ( exactly same with Albini agents)

    There is also a horrible made in Spain ( that I suspect is made in China rebranded) interlining called Manley who believe they are the best when are the worst actually.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by