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What are some things in classic menswear that annoy you?

nreid2946

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I've never really liked the whole "modern" waistcoat style. Classic waistcoats were much taller, had lapels, and just looked far more stylish.Think John Wick, as a good recent example.

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As opposed to a generic marketing image from today...

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So here's the question to you Gentlemen, what's something that annoys you that you see quite a lot today?
 

comrade

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Patch pockets.
Ticket pockets.
 

FlyingHorker

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Any type of "summer" sweater or jacket. It's 40 degrees outside with humidity. NO TYPE of fabric is going to help and you will just look insane with 2-3 layers. Stop trying to make it happen!
I've been guilty of this.

With that said, I love "summer" based layers. They can, ironically, be best in fall, winter, and spring.

Wear them as outer layers during fall and spring, and as a middle layer in winter. I do this with shirt jackets.
 

comrade

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Any type of "summer" sweater or jacket. It's 40 degrees outside with humidity. NO TYPE of fabric is going to help and you will just look insane with 2-3 layers. Stop trying to make it happen!

Some of us live in climates like that of the San Francisco Bay Area where
summer evenings usually drop to around 13 degrees ( 50sF). Hence, the
utility of a light to medium weight sweater or jacket often of silk, linen, cotton
or a blend thereof.
 
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Bromley

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Some of the people. And summer.
 
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dieworkwear

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Personally not a fan of the "sir I am a gentleman" attitude that this look sometimes inspires. The sort of phony British upper class/ blue-blooded WASP character cosplay. But the clothes are nice. I think almost anything can be worn well if it's on the right person.

Agree some of the modern cuts are regrettable, but I don't really consider that stuff "classic" in the way the term is used on the forum.
 

nreid2946

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Personally not a fan of the "sir I am a gentleman" attitude that this look sometimes inspires. The sort of phony British upper class/ blue-blooded WASP character cosplay. But the clothes are nice. I think almost anything can be worn well if it's on the right person.

Agree some of the modern cuts are regrettable, but I don't really consider that stuff "classic" in the way the term is used on the forum.

Yes absolutely.

Especially regrading the overdone "Sprezzaturra" look. Which is to say, is there to make your style look effortless. yet you get these people, usually those new to classic menswear, who dress up in far to complicated outfits, with five accessories. In this universe, more is definitely less. But then, I do prefer British tailoring, and I myself are fairly conservative with my fashion. And while the Italian style is great, is often screams "Too much effort".

I also don't like the skinny cuts of modern classic menswear.

I'm new to this forum, how is classic usually defined on here? As I thought it was just the general sartorial world?

- Nick
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Yes absolutely.

Especially regrading the overdone "Sprezzaturra" look. Which is to say, is there to make your style look effortless. yet you get these people, usually those new to classic menswear, who dress up in far to complicated outfits, with five accessories. In this universe, more is definitely less. But then, I do prefer British tailoring, and I myself are fairly conservative with my fashion. And while the Italian style is great, is often screams "Too much effort".

I also don't like the skinny cuts of modern classic menswear.

I'm new to this forum, how is classic usually defined on here? As I thought it was just the general sartorial world?

- Nick

I think most people recognize that the slim, short suit is a trend. It's something that was introduced by some designers back in the late 90s/ early aughts. It's never really been popular here, even during its heyday. The look is kind of on its way out even in the fashion world.

The overdone Pitti look also has never really been popular here.

Very generally speaking, I think people here take a very conservative view on clothing. If something isn't conservative, like purple sport coats or patchwork madras pants, it has to be rooted in some other value. Those tend to be history (mostly codified eras of "classic" menswear, such as Ivy, mod, or Apparel Arts 1930s type stuff). Or heritage/ craft. So a bespoke purple sport coat is more accepted than a ready-to-wear sport coat. Or a boating blazer because it has some historical precedent.

Pitti and Thom Browne type silhouettes generally don't have any of those things, so they're mostly derided here.

I still think a lot of this has to do with heterosexual masculine values -- history, craft, tradition, etc. But I mentioned that recently elsewhere and got some pushback. If a look is bold, it's more accepted here if it's couched in some very masculine context. Like those old photos of British artistos wearing absurd tweeds and yellow socks. That's considered cool, whereas Pitti is not.
 

nreid2946

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I think most people recognize that the slim, short suit is a trend. It's something that was introduced by some designers back in the late 90s/ early aughts. It's never really been popular here, even during its heyday. The look is kind of on its way out even in the fashion world.

The overdone Pitti look also has never really been popular here.

Very generally speaking, I think people here take a very conservative view on clothing. If something isn't conservative, like purple sport coats or patchwork madras pants, it has to be rooted in some other value. Those tend to be history (mostly codified eras of "classic" menswear, such as Ivy, mod, or Apparel Arts 1930s type stuff). Or heritage/ craft. So a bespoke purple sport coat is more accepted than a ready-to-wear sport coat. Or a boating blazer because it has some historical precedent.

Pitti and Thom Browne type silhouettes generally don't have any of those things, so they're mostly derided here.

I still think a lot of this has to do with heterosexual masculine values -- history, craft, tradition, etc. But I mentioned that recently elsewhere and got some pushback. If a look is bold, it's more accepted here if it's couched in some very masculine context. Like those old photos of British artistos wearing absurd tweeds and yellow socks. That's considered cool, whereas Pitti is not.

I assumed that the whole skinny look, starting in the 90s, was due to the decline in suit sales? Saving fabric etc.

I tend to despise trends. I myself am only 20, so as one would imaging, most of my friends are obsessed with the heavily trend-driven would of sportswear.

I'm a heavy believer in the real-politik approach to menswear. For instance, wearing what is appropriate and avoiding the whole "peacock" look. Like I said, the Italian culture is great, and I have great respect for their tradition and playfulness when it comes to expressing themselves. But there's a fine line to walk. For instance, I am from a small town where even wearing a blazer, you will get people acusing you of being "too formal". But I'm not going to dress down to simply accomodate them to what they think I should be. And in that way, I respect the Italian Pitti culture. But also, that doesn't mean that I think that it is appropriate to wear a power-suit everywhere I go, given that it's a small town.

I think it must have a lot to do with the location and its weather. I live in England, so the idea of wearing conservative fashion: i.e., blues, blacks, grays - simply makes more sense. Ultimately, environment matters - but it shouldn't be so restrictive that it stops you from being yourself.
 

nreid2946

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In the UK, there is a class of people who have an accent called "Heightened Received Pronunciation". Think Charles Dance from Game of Thrones.

There has always been contention between the upper and working class people. With the aristocracy viewing the working class as un-cultured, and the working class viewing the upper class, or "toffs" as entitled. A good example being Boris Johnson, who is the most pathetic excuse of a politician I've seen in my country in my lifetime, and yet he has had everything given to him.

I.e. went to Eton, and an Ox-bridge university.

Like most things, while there is some truth to it, I tend to dislike stereotypes. I mean, obviously not all aristocratic figures are self-entitled people such as Boris Johnson.

But they did make a lot of classic menswear popular. And it explains why Black Tie, and White Tie, have so many rules.
 

nreid2946

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I think elongated shoes look silly. They’re like a modern day codpiece.

Do you mean just extra long shoes that have a narrow end?

I don't like them either.

Generally speaking l, it is wise to stay away from the extremes. Hence no squared-toed shoes and no extra long fronted shoes.
 

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