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Went to century 21 today

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by johnnynorman3, May 27, 2004.

  1. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    They did have some Brionis, but for $1500, it was still too steep. They had some Hickey Freeman LTD for $400, but I'd rather pay $100 more for the Collection label.

    The best potential deal I saw was Luciano Barbera suits for $600, marked down from $2450. But, and correct me if I'm mistaken, they were FUSED. What is up with that? I was under the impression on this board that a Barbera that cost that much would be fully canvassed? It did have pad stitched lapels -- with gorgeous pick stitching -- and I loved the cut (flat front trousers though), but I coulnd't justify paying 600 for a fused suit.
     
  2. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yep, saw those. They are lousy suits really, and most definitely fused. Not worth the money. Century 21 wasn't the spot for tailored clothing, but it was GREAT for sportswear.
     
  3. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    A. Harris,

    I didn't check out the sportswear because it was a zoo. I did see some great Zanella blazers though. I ended up purchasing a half dozen merino wool socks from Lorenzo Uomo. Did you buy any sportswear there? For me, I pretty much stick to J Crew, Banana, and Polo for my sportswear and casual wear. I'm just so accustmed to those brands.

    In my book nothing beats the Filenes Basement suit events when they have HF Collection, Oxxford, etc. by the score. But I still have to check out the NM Last Call sales as well as the regular NM's last call.
     
  4. FCS

    FCS Senior member

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    Pardon me, fused jackets from Luciano Barbera?
     
  5. BGW

    BGW Senior member

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    I picked up an Isaia there last weekend. What did you guys think of those? The quality seemed superb to my admittedly untrained eye.
     
  6. Mike C.

    Mike C. Senior member

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    Ok, so I wasn't going insane when I saw those last week, I was begining to doubt my judgement. Though fused, the material on those Barbera's was phenomenal, as was the fit and the pick stitching on the lapel. I thought the 3-button stance was a bit high too.

    All the Brioni's there seemed to be made from second-rate material. Too bad I couldn't try them on due to the stupid security device chaining them to the rack. I hate it when stores do this.

    Which Century21 were you at? Sounds like the Long Island one.
     
  7. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, the ones with this label: [​IMG] I was at the store across from the World Trade Center site. And yes, the Isaia's were nice. I didn't buy any sportswear, but I saw some nice things and there is such a range of merchandise to choose from I have no doubt the place would make me broke if I lived in NY.
     
  8. HRHAndrew

    HRHAndrew Senior member

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    I have to concur with Andrew on this one. The fused Barbera's are very dissappointing. Much worse than the fused Isaia's that raised such an uproar. I haven't really looked at the new "Z" Zegna line to see how their new fused creation is. I do know that it is an attempt to replace "soft." I also saw some ebay sellers unloading them at regulkar Zegna prices.
     
  9. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Those fused Isaia's have been growing on me. Still no substitute for a canvased suit but as fused suits go they aren't bad. Very light, natural shoulders and some decent fabrics...
     
  10. FCS

    FCS Senior member

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    Pardon me, fused jackets from Luciano Barbera?
    Yes, the ones with this label: [​IMG] I was at the store across from the World Trade Center site. And yes, the Isaia's were nice. I didn't buy any sportswear, but I saw some nice things and there is such a range of merchandise to choose from I have no doubt the place would make me broke if I lived in NY.
    Interesting, I've never seen that Club suits personally but I had a conversation with a Barbera reps in NYC, Michal Sestak; he said that the Club label was discontinued a few years ago but they were fully-canvassed although they are not as handmade as the Sartoriale line. If I remember correctly he quoted me 60/40 (or 70/30, something like that) hand/machine.
     
  11. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    The Isaia's were nice, but I disliked the fit on me (and they didn't have my size).  As for Brioni, I agree that the fabrics were less than first rate.  I expected more.  And those security devices are idiotic -- I tried a jacket on and the guy made me feel guilty for not buying it after all the trouble he had to go through to remove the security device.  

    The Barberas were definitely fused, though I agree that the fabric was beautiful.  I like the button stance while leaving the top button undone.  Really the best buy in that store may have been the Zanella sports jackets for $159.  Fully canvassed and SUPER SOFT wool -- maybe cashmere blend, but I didn't check.

    I was in the World Trade Center store by the way.
     
  12. HRHAndrew

    HRHAndrew Senior member

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    I know what you mean. I have always maintained that the USA made Hugo Boss's were the best fused suit that money could buy, but the Isaia's are pretty nice. Maybe it is that now that we are used to seeing them, and done saying "how dissappointing" we are looking a little more critically.
     
  13. Mike C.

    Mike C. Senior member

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    I loathe the Hugo Boss suits sold in the US. For some reason the HB suits in Italy seemed much more elegant in terms of fit and styling.

    The US versions are geared towards fat guys.

    It's funny how so many guys in the US think that HB suits are top shelf.
     
  14. HRHAndrew

    HRHAndrew Senior member

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    Well, I am a bit fat so.... I don't think you will have anyone here claim that Hugo Boss (non-baldessarini) are top-shelf. As for regular line that is sold here in the States, there is a very wide range of quality, all bearing the same label. I have seen some made in Croatia, Mexico, and God knows where else. There are some that are made in the US. Not sure by who, but I think that you will find that those that are made in the US and carried by Neiman Marcus for instance can be found in very nice fabrics and well constructed for a fused suit.
     
  15. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    I actually just bought a HB USA today -- might wear it for my wedding (the bride would freak if i spent more than 500/600). I got a black two button (rare to find) at Bloomies for under 400. I actually think you are wrong about it geared toward fat guys. Sure, you have to size down potentially, but the model I got (Galile/Sigma) is very good for my trim fit, though I admit that the cut is not Eddie Slim in the shoulders or anything. It tapers moderatly in the waist though, and the arms are nicely proportioned. A good buy for the money -- the fusing really is the thinnest I'm felt, rivaled perhaps only by Polo/Corneliani.
     
  16. kalra2411

    kalra2411 Senior member

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    The Boss suits you get here in the UK are mostly made in Italy
     
  17. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A couple of comments - Boss has lots of different models and they all fit differently. Also, Marzotto has factories all over the place but the quality is pretty much the same no matter where it is made. Although I have seen some substandard stuff in outlets that was made in Romania I think.
     
  18. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    A. Harris, you seem to be a fan of Boss, or at least not a basher. Would you call it a respectable, if unspectacular suit? I just really can't buy a $1000 black suit for my wedding -- the bride would KILL me (she'll monitor my wedding purchase much more closely than my business suit purchases). But I want to look good, you know. It's tough to tell in a mirror. The fabric seems good, if not great. The lapels certainly don't roll like the Canali I bought my Dad (see my other post tonight), but they seem adequate (I wish they were pad stitched though).

    Between the Paul smith advertised on the Neiman Marcus sight (retail $995, I'm hoping I can get it for $600 or lower next weekend at the NM sale) or the Boss for $385, which one is the better value? (I realize they will fit totally differently -- I'm not sure if the PS will be too "trendy" for me).
     
  19. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I've only had one Boss suit (that I wore,) mostly because cut of their jackets generally doesn't agree with me. They do one model that I like - the Mars/Orbit, albeit you have to buy it in a smaller size (42 reg for me, instead of 44L.) So no, I don't hate Boss. At $385 it's not a bad value and you have tried it on and seem to like the fit. Ordinarily I might counsel you to hold out for something canvased, but since this is your wedding you probably don't have all the time in the world.

    Between the Boss and the Paul Smith, I'd go for the one that fits better. The quality is about the same.

    About the lapel roll - for the big day, flip the lapels over and iron the back side flat (get rid of the crease,) but make sure to use a handkerchief so that you don't scorch the fabric. That will give you a nice roll to the lapel. It won't hold the roll like a canvased suit, but it will look much better for your wedding.
     
  20. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    A. Harris, I'm up shining my shoe the way you told me (my friends are out of town for the weekend, so I'm spending my Friday night polishing my shoes -- it's actually fun.).

    I am going to hold out for something canvassed, but its so hard to find a black canvas suit that fits me well -- I found a Baldessarini in my size, but just didn't like the fit. I have about three months till the big day, so I'm perpetually buying and returning, on a steady move up in terms of fit and quality (and hopefully not price). God knows where I'll end. I am willing to sacrifice quality for fit, obviously, because pictures really hide poor construction quality well.
     

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