Went back to Al Certo for another suit

[Dolle Dolf]

Some of you may remember my previous foray in custom tailoring. http://www.styleforum.net/t/52426/my-new-custom-suit-from-al-certo-sinatras-old-tailor/15 Well, my OTR STP jackets are wearing out, I worn out a few Incotex OTR trousers from the same place, so a sartorial renewal/upgrade was due. So I went back to Al. Still going strong at the age of 84. Still making jackets with the sleeves too long Overall the suit feels as if it is a bit too roomy. They took new measurements to compare with the measurements they had on file for me, but I think they measured me a bit too big, about an inch or two too wide across the chest, across the waist, and actually also across the beltline of the trousers. I think the suit looks a little more boxy than I would like, with a bit more waist suppression I think the jacket in particular would look better. Saying that, the suit is definitely more comfy than the suit in the link above, whichis definitely too narrow now. I do not actually weigh much more, perhaps only 5-7lbs as in 2007, but I guess I am a little more square than I used to be. I think the jacket would look and perhaps feel better if the waste were taken in by an inch or two. The back is too loose for my liking on this picture as well. Could definitely lose some fabric here. Have to admit that I just got out of the car when this picture was taken. Initially I thought the trouser belt was too wide, but I wore it all day today and really it did not sag although I wore it wiht a belt. Al told me to come back any time for fine tuning. I think an inch or two off the waist line could make for an improved look. A half an inch of the sleeves. And about an inch off the back/shoulder circumference. He has unfortunately put the buttons quite low. I have already had them take half an inch off the sleeves, they were way to long initially. Thanks for looking. Addendum: there is a notepad in my inside pocket on the right causing a bulge, especially visible on the photos where I am leaning back. Shoulda taken it out of course ......

 

[Dolle Dolf]

Hey, what happened to this site? usually folks like to jump in on other peep's suit (mis)fortunes ....

 

[F. Corbera]

Thanks for bumping.

I dig the ponytail and the diagonal siding.

 

[jrd617]



Thanks for bumping.
I dig the ponytail and the diagonal siding.

Honorable mentions: le shooz, phone holster, and late 80s geometric tie

 

[Dolle Dolf]

I can take no credit for the siding ..... and each time I mention getting rid of the ponytail, an almost obligatory accessory in Liverpool in 1991, howls of despair recochet along the halls of the residence, so .... it's still there .....

 

[F. Corbera]

It looks decent.

- The buttoning point is not too low. Seems about right.

- You could get the sleeves shortened as you described. Maybe he can shorten the hem a bit also, but not so much as throw off the vertical proportions of the jacket.

- It doesn't look like your hips are forward in the back shot, so it seems like there isn't sufficient adjustment for your flat seat. Another sign of this is that the trousers are hitting the back of your calf. This is a complicated fix, involving both the front and rear of the pants between crotch and waistband.

- I think that waist on the jacket is as tight as it can go. It's already betraying a bit of a muffin top in the shot of the jacket from the back. Deal with this reality and forget about winching in the waist.

- The back isn't very loose given what can be seen about the weight of the fabric, but he didn't seem to take enough account of your dropped right shoulder (queue Orson Welles.)

- I don't like how the sleeves hang.

Overall, not bad for $1.5K, but not great either.

 

[Dolle Dolf]

It doesn't look like your hips are forward in the back shot, so it seems like there isn't' sufficient adjustment for your flat seat. Another sign of this is that the trousers are hitting the back of your calf. This is a complicated fix, involving both the front and rear of the pants between crotch and waistband.

Thx. No I am not holding my hips forward in that shot, but I have a bit of a "duck walk" with the hip slightly tilted foward, with a proment butt (enhanced from weight lifting/squatting). I don't think that the guys are up for this kind of adaptation TBH.

I think that waist on the jacket is as tight as it can go. It's already betraying a bit of a muffin top in the shot of the jacket from the back. Deal with this reality.

Thx, I don't know what "muffin top" means, I will look that up when I get home. gotta do the commute thingie now. but it is good to know that it should probably not get tighter. So they got that right then?

The back isn't very loose given what can be seen about the weight of the fabric, but he didn't seem to take enough account of your dropped right shoulder (queue Orson Welles.)

I tend to keep an eye on my posture, not usually up (or low) like that. I think I am unwittingly enhancing it on the pictures stepping back and forth a little with either leg.

I don't like how the sleeves hang.

That was a criticism with the previous attempt also. Don't know why they can't get that right. I admit to proabbly having a somewhat difficult body with a big(gish) chest/upper back and bid(gish) upper arms, a relatively narrow(ish) waste, and a big(gish0 butt and thighs, but hell, I am no Schwarzenegger or Hulk Hogan.

Thx for the feedback. I thought the adults had left the building for a moment ....

 

[Dolle Dolf]

No interest??

Well lets try Andy's.