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Wedding suit for fiance. Help!

breakaway01

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His measurements are
Waist: 31.5
Chest: 36.5
Shoulder: 17
Sleeve from shoulder: 22.5
I'd try the both 36R contemporary and the 36R slim.

The temptation is to fit into the slimmest suit possible -- certainly that is the current fashion. But I'd suggest that he might look better by not highlighting how slim he is. I have very similar measurements (30.5/37/17/24) and I much prefer the contemporary on my frame.
 

Fgustaf

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I'd try the both 36R contemporary and the 36R slim.

The temptation is to fit into the slimmest suit possible -- certainly that is the current fashion. But I'd suggest that he might look better by not highlighting how slim he is. I have very similar measurements (30.5/37/17/24) and I much prefer the contemporary on my frame.
Awesome. Any thoughts on the Neapolitan cut?
 

Daniel Hakimi

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Spier & Mackay is a good suggestion.
You just saw him in SuitSupply. Knowing how Spier fits versus how Susu fits, I really doubt this is worth the effort. Suitsupply's most relaxed fits are noticeably tighter than Spier's slimmest, right? And I'm not saying a more relaxed cut is terrible, but I don't think SuitSupply's is too slim on him, and Spier's armholes are gigantic off the rack.
 

dieworkwear

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You just saw him in SuitSupply. Knowing how Spier fits versus how Susu fits, I really doubt this is worth the effort. Suitsupply's most relaxed fits are noticeably tighter than Spier's slimmest, right? And I'm not saying a more relaxed cut is terrible, but I don't think SuitSupply's is too slim on him, and Spier's armholes are gigantic off the rack.
My small nitpick is that the jacket looks short on the wearer, and I think he might benefit from trying on a different silhouette. I also generally favor suits with a V-shaped silhouette and not something so slim, although I think S&M may only be a marginal improvement in that regard.
 

breakaway01

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Spier's armholes are gigantic off the rack.
Curious, have you actually tested this or are you just repeating claims you’ve read here? I don’t find this to be true. I have compared them to a number of other jackets I own, because of this often-repeated claim that I didn’t perceive to be true when wearing my own jackets. It turns out that across multiple manufacturers, there is a relatively small range of armhole dimensions. For 36R it’s between 7-7.5 inches vertically, unstretched. The S&M armholes are on the larger end of the range but certainly not an outlier. In fact they are the same size as a SS Havana jacket from a few years back. My Caruso jackets have smaller armholes but not by much. We’re talking 1/2” in the vertical dimension.
 
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Daniel Hakimi

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Curious, have you actually tested this or are you just repeating claims you’ve read here? I don’t find this to be true. I have compared them to a number of other jackets I own, because of this often-repeated claim that I didn’t perceive to be true when wearing my own jackets. It turns out that across multiple manufacturers, there is a relatively small range of armhole dimensions. For 36R it’s between 7-7.5 inches vertically, unstretched. The S&M armholes are on the larger end of the range but certainly not an outlier. In fact they are the same size as a SS Havana jacket from a few years back. My Caruso jackets have smaller armholes but not by much. We’re talking 1/2” in the vertical dimension.
I ordered a contemporary fit DB. It was a little big in the shoulder and chest, so that could have factored into the problems, but they were noticeably larger than the armholes on my Black Lapel, Bonobos, and Banana Republic jackets. I don't think it takes a huge difference in size to change the way the armholes actually feel.

I have never read anybody else talk about Spier's armholes, this was entirely my issue.
 

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