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Wedding shoe advice

golfinz

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Good afternoon gents! Long story, but due to the uncertainty of the pandemic, my fiance and I have decided to have a 'civil wedding.' We are 35, been together for 7.5 years, engaged 2.5 and we want to get married on our terms and on our time. We started planning in Jan/Feb, but stopped as things become less certain with the world. Our plan is to get married at the end of July/early Aug and then on our 1 year wedding anniversary, throw a reception for friends and family.

As such, I've started to look for my wedding attire. Her dress will not be something too formal, so I was planning on wearing a navy suit (likely something from SS since there isn't enough time for custom). For the shoes, I'm either considering the following:

G&G St James II in Vintage Cherry or

St Crispin 104FC in black

Does one stand out more than another? Both are in stock and would arrive before the event. I've got small feet so a bigger retailer like Skoaktiebolaget won't have my size.
 
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Phileas Fogg

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In my opinion, the difference in overall quality is marginal so I’ll call it a draw. I know SC is hand welted but so what.

Their coloring and burnishing is quite interesting from what I’ve seen as well, but you’re looking at a black shoe, so that’s not as much an issue.

their is a significant cost differential. That’s something to consider.

Too, consider usefulness after the event. Are you someone who wears black shoes somewhat regularly, or does your wardrobe, personal and professional, not have need of that.

For me, the GG makes more sense. If I’m going to spend SC money, I’ll get something that typifies what they do best. The GG color fits in more with my wardrobe choices and needs as well.

again, that’s just me. A black shoe may make more sense for you, and if so, go for it.

good luck and congrats.
 

golfinz

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Thanks for the reply and kind words.

Regarding usefulness: I wear black dress shoes about twice a week. Other days are some variation of brown from Carmina. With what I wear, I think a burgundy/cherry shoe would get about as much wear as a black shoe. I have wanted a burgundy shoe for a while.

Does this model not typify what they do best? While it's not their most elegant or flashy model, it seems classic. Longwing oxford on the classic last. I'm not too familiar with SC, other than I've wanted a pair for a long time. Heck, I've wanted a pair of GG for a while too. Figured now is as good of time as any.
 

Phileas Fogg

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When I think of St.Crispins, I think of the lasts and I think of the coloring and hand burnishing.

The example above is, I’m sure, an excellent shoe. The question is, is it something truly unique that is representative of what they do best? Otherwise, you’re spending $400-500 more than you need to.

This is strictly my opinion and I’m sure others will feel differently. Too, bear in mind I’m not a fan of black shoes and don’t own any.
 

dieworkwear

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I don't own any GG shoes, but just a note about StC, they fit very close to the foot. You'll want to make sure they fit you well in RTW form. Since they fit so close to the foot, there's very little room for error. Many people find they have to get a custom last made.

Even when they fit well, StCs take a while to break in because of their construction. The waist is a bit stiff. Depending on when you get them, you'll want to wear them for a while -- a little at first each day -- so that you're comfortable on your wedding day.
 

golfinz

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I don't own any GG shoes, but just a note about StC, they fit very close to the foot. You'll want to make sure they fit you well in RTW form. Since they fit so close to the foot, there's very little room for error. Many people find they have to get a custom last made.

Even when they fit well, StCs take a while to break in because of their construction. The waist is a bit stiff. Depending on when you get them, you'll want to wear them for a while -- a little at first each day -- so that you're comfortable on your wedding day.

Good to know, thanks! I plan on ordering either tonight, but leaning SC....
 

dieworkwear

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Also not sure I agree with the poster above, who said that StC's strength is in burnishing. I think their strength is in their last shape (although, that's also a double-edged sword, as it's not very forgiving). I find their "Classic" last to be very elegant and yet also not that aggressive looking.

On the issue of color, they're also known for using crust leather. A black crust leather will age very differently than regular calf (don't know if GG also uses crust). It'll "fade" in certain spots as it ages.

It takes a bit more upkeep though. You have to be careful of what products you use on it since it's an unfinished leather. You also have to polish it more often to keep up that shine. Otherwise, crust can look a bit dusty and dull.

If your wedding is soon, I would order both and see how they fit. Again, StC isn't very forgiving, so you have to be honest with yourself about how they feel at first. Any real tightness is going to feel like hell after a long day.
 

Phileas Fogg

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I didn’t realize that about the leather. Interesting. And yes, the fit is quite wonky. I played around with wanting to order some for a while and every time I tried on samples at a trunk show, I just couldn’t find a fit that worked.

The other nice thing about SC is that their is not up charge for made to order so unless time is of the issue, made to order makes more sense. Of course, my understanding is that the fulfillment time can be quite long.

just to be clear, the lasts and the colors/burnishing are what stand out to me regarding SC. If you’re looking at a black oxford, there are more than likely other options open to you that are less risky.
 

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