Wedding in August: Morning coat and accessaries

[MI-6]

Good Evening,

I just got engaged recently and am now planning on getting what I want to wear in my wedding in August. The wedding will take place in Vancouver, Canada. I think i will be getting a morning coat. Are there any details that I should request?

Another question is that I would like to get button boots to go with the morning coat. Are there any other choices out there? My budget is around 1K. I have considered getting it from Otsuka M5 but not too sure of my size in Japanese size. Has anyone tried Otsuka M5 for their button boots?

Thanks for your inputs!

 

[Midnight Blue]

I can't help you with the button boots but I have a lot of basic information about morning dress at http://www.blacktieguide.com/Supplem...ning_Dress.htm including links to a couple more helpful web pages.

 

[Sator]

The first thing I would say when getting a morning coat made up is to get the length right. The correct length of a morning coat is much shorter - up to 4 inches above the knee, depending on taste.

I suggest you print this out to take to your tailor:

The one to look at is the so-called "SB Frock". Americans in the Edwardian era were often made fun of by the English for calling morning coats "single breasted frock coats".

 

[Sator]

Originally Posted by Midnight Blue

I can't help you with the button boots but I have a lot of basic information about morning dress at http://www.blacktieguide.com/Supplem...ning_Dress.htm including links to a couple more helpful web pages.
One little error, although it is otherwise looking very good. must be worn with self-tie ascot ("cravat" in UK) In British English, a dress cravat is also called an Ascot. The casual version is called a day cravat. However, day cravats and Ascots are quite different in the way they are constructed, even if in American English they are both called ascots. The Ascot tie (usually with a capital "A" in British English) has a lining to give it structure. Days cravats are soft and of the sort of soft silk one can wear against the skin.

 

[GBR]

Originally Posted by Sator

The first thing I would say when getting a morning coat made up is to get the length right. The correct length of a morning coat is much shorter - up to 4 inches above the knee, depending on taste.

I suggest you print this out to take to your tailor:

The one to look at is the so-called "SB Frock". Americans in the Edwardian era were often made fun of by the English for calling morning coats "single breasted frock coats".

A tailor of any merit will not need reference to such a table - if it can be treated as a worthwhile 'rule' to follow. Do not entirely eschew the advice of him therefore.

 

[Sator]

Unless you are a Canadian tailor who can give the OP complete reassurance that other Canadian tailors have such copious experience with bespoke morning coats that no such concern need be raised, I would have to tell you that tailors these days infrequently make dress coats and even less frequently, morning coats. Many haven't made one in years, sometimes close to a decade or more. There have been bespoke morning coats shown here that have been incorrectly made up to knee length, like a dress coat.

Never assume anything.

 

[Midnight Blue]

Originally Posted by Sator

One little error, although it is otherwise looking very good.

must be worn with self-tie ascot ("cravat" in UK)

In British English, a dress cravat is also called an Ascot. The casual version is called a day cravat. However, day cravats and Ascots are quite different in the way they are constructed, even if in American English they are both called ascots. The Ascot tie (usually with a capital "A" in British English) has a lining to give it structure. Days cravats are soft and of the sort of soft silk one can wear against the skin.

Thank you so much Sator. I will make that correction.

Interesting chart by the way. When (and where) was it published?

Peter

P.S. I agree about the lack of formal wear knowledge on the part of Canadian tailors no matter how much "merit" they may have. In the early years of researching my site I interviewed the owner of a prestigious century-old family-owned tailor shop and realized he didn't know some of the most basic principles of proper black tie. (It is a matter of great pride for me that he now uses my site as a reference tool for himself and his customers!)

 

[Sator]

Originally Posted by Midnight Blue

Interesting chart by the way. When (and where) was it published?

I agree about the lack of formal wear knowledge on the part of Canadian tailors no matter how much "merit" they may have.

It's the same everywhere. My own tailor says he hasn't made a dress coat in many years, and that in his whole career going back to the '70s has only made a few. I know other tailors in town who don't know how to make body coats at all.

The table comes from Croonborg - The Blue Book:

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/...pic.php?t=8141

There is a similar table in Vincent's CPG.

 

[MI-6]

I don't think i will get my morning coat made in Vancouver because I simply can't find one that is capable and have enough fabric in the store. I was thinking of flying back to Taiwan to get it made. However, I am thinking of finding a tailor in NA. Any tailor who can make it for me in seattle, washington area? How much will it cost me? Thanks!

 

[Cordovan]

Sator - you live for threads like this.

Cordovan