Wearing a navy suit jacket as a blazer?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Leo Jay, Oct 18, 2004.

  1. Leo Jay

    Leo Jay Senior member

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    Besides concern about the jacket wearing out at a different rate than the pants, is there any reason NOT to wear a solid or subtly-patterned navy suit jacket with slacks, as one would a blazer? I realize that purists would turn up their noses at this just on principle, but is there any practical reason it would be unseemly or look odd in general? I very much dislike the metal buttons 'proper' blazers often come with anyway. Thoughts?
     
  2. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    No reason. In fact, a lot of designers, and even traditional (albeit Italian) makers have started making solid navy sportscoats (ostensibly blazers) with horn rather than metal buttons. Personally, I really hate crested buttons on blazers, although I do like the simple, flat silver colored ones I've seen on some Burberry models.
     
  3. Brian SD

    Brian SD Moderator

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    Many people would not be able to tell the difference, but I believe it looks a bit odd to be wearing a suit jacket with jeans or odd trousers because the suit jacket often has much lighter material and tends to be longer as well (in my experience). It tends to look simply out of place. Some fabrics are more passable (more substantial) than others, but I would evade it when possible. Take this opinion as being "non-purist."

    Also, I think it is not as difficult as you may think to find a navy blazer without metal buttons (I disprove of them myself and have no trouble avoiding them).
     
  4. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I agree with Brian SD. A finer wool suit jacket material is going to look a bit off with the heavier flannel pants blazers are traditionally worn with. On the other hand, an old fashioned worsted wool suit coat will look fine. Sometimes, J. Press does pull through for you. As for the length, suit coats come in all sorts of lengths. I do agree that a shorter skirt will look better (or at least, more like a real blazer.)
     
  5. Leo Jay

    Leo Jay Senior member

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    Thanks for the feedback, gentlemen.
     
  6. Styleman

    Styleman In Time Out

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    I may be wrong here, but in my opinion when one buys a suit, the jacket of such is very different to one that one would buy by itself.
    Below are what I know to be the differences:

    The stance of a suit jacket is far higher.
    The suit jacket is generally a lot longer than sports jacket/blazer.
    One lapel overlaps the other on a suit jacket slightly; on a sj/blazer, they are exactly centered to each other.
    A suit jacket is cut to a straight body side profile, whereas a sj/blazer may have a slight indent at the lower stomach/waist.
    The buttons begin at a higher point on a suit jacket (relates to the lapel point)
    In addition there are many conventions, such as single vent and slimmer lapels, though in recent times these have been forgotten.
     
  7. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

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    I would demur here, as I have worn navy (or other colored) suit jackets quite often with jeans or lighter weight wool pants. I think it depends on the item in question, and you should know immediately if it is appropriate by trying it on.
     
  8. Styleman

    Styleman In Time Out

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    You are right, I do not thing there is anything wrong with doing it, as you will probably be able to see yourself when you put it on if it is wrong. I was just saying that they are quite different (suit jackets and blazers/sports jackets).
     
  9. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    With the plethora of different cuts in suit jackets as well as sports jackets, I would argue that the differences that you have pointed out can be seen more as differences between styles of jacket as opposed to whether they are odd jackets or part of a suit. For example, both the stance and the gorge of traditional American sack suits are much lower than the the stance and gorge of, say, a 2 button Dolce & Gabbana sportsjacket (although I have seen some Dolce & Gabbana flannel sportsjackets that are deliberately American sack inspired). Similar examples can easily be brough up when comparing the length of the skirt, the shape of the waist and skirt, etc...
     
  10. Styleman

    Styleman In Time Out

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    I may be wrong here, but in my opinion when one buys a suit, the jacket of such is very different to one that one would buy by itself. Below are what I know to be the differences: The stance of a suit jacket is far higher. The suit jacket is generally a lot longer than sports jacket/blazer. One lapel overlaps the other on a suit jacket slightly; on a sj/blazer, they are exactly centered to each other. A suit jacket is cut to a straight body side profile, whereas a sj/blazer may have a slight indent at the lower stomach/waist. The buttons begin at a higher point on a suit jacket (relates to the lapel point) In addition there are many conventions, such as single vent and slimmer lapels, though in recent times these have been forgotten.
    With the plethora of different cuts in suit jackets as well as sports jackets, I would argue that the differences that you have pointed out can be seen more as differences between styles of jacket as opposed to whether they are odd jackets or part of a suit. Â For example, both the stance and the gorge of traditional American sack suits are much lower than the the stance and gorge of, say, a 2 button Dolce & Gabbana sportsjacket (although I have seen some Dolce & Gabbana flannel sportsjackets that are deliberately American sack inspired). Â Similar examples can easily be brough up when comparing the length of the skirt, the shape of the waist and skirt, etc...
    Perhaps true.
     
  11. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I can tell you that it's extremely rare for any top make to cut a blazer jacket any different than a suit jacket. They use the same models, unless perhaps it's an unlined summer jacket with patch pockets.

    So if the jacket is solid navy or black and does not have overly padded shoulders, there is absolutely no reason you can't wear it as a blazer. What is important though is that you select trousers whose cut complements the jacket. I.e. no loose fitting jackets with slim pants. That looks ridiculous.
     
  12. Keith T

    Keith T TWAT Master.

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    I would recommend not trying this with pinstripes. While you might try it with the right solid navy suit, I don't like the look of pinstriped suits "broken up". Not exactly to your point, but the suit in my closet that I most often "break up" is actually a glen plaid. I like to wear the pants with light-weight sweaters and turtlenecks, and I wear the jacket with solid colored wool slacks (usually charcoal) or even with jeans.
     
  13. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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  14. Leo Jay

    Leo Jay Senior member

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    Thanks. I'm not quite THAT clueless. Though I do have a picture of myself in my dorm room in the mid 80's wearing a navy pinstripe suit jacket, white t-shirt, blue jeans and a fedora. And I looked GOOD, dammit. [​IMG]
     
  15. christian

    christian Senior member

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    Is there any way to pull off pinstripes suit as a sportsjacket?

    I've got a suit jacket with subtle lines, but no pants. It would be a shame to just throw out the jacket.
     

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