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We settle some old shirt questions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Kent Wang, May 25, 2006.

  1. Kent Wang

    Kent Wang Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    This is a Chan shirt that is mostly a copy of a Jantzen one. [​IMG][​IMG] [​IMG] Pre-crash, we were discussing just how short a shirt could be so that it would look good untucked and will not come loose when tucked. Most felt that 30" (for my 5'9" height) would be ideal but I decided to experiment with 28". I think this looks much better untucked and I assure you that when tucked it never comes loose. I think it's possible to chop off another inch and still have the shirt stay firmly tucked. I intend to try that with my next order. Another issue was the matter of darts in the back of the shirt. As you can see, they really tighten up the back and reduce the space near the hollow of the back. When I had Chan copy my Jantzen shirt I instructed them to add the darts. We weren't certain how to specify this when ordering from Jantzen but now that I think about it, one should just be able to say "please place two darts in the hollow of the back, 8" long, 1/2" deep." One concern I have, however, is how would the darts look with a striped pattern? Oh, and there was also the issue of whether it's possible to wear a French cuff shirt untucked with jeans. I certainly think so, though perhaps leather shoes would've been better than the sneakers.
     


  2. Jovan

    Jovan Banned for Good

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    Cufflinks look just fine worn casually, I think. I've seen a number of people including you pull it off fine. Nice shirt colour!
     


  3. kdsvs

    kdsvs Active Member

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    I've mentioned this before, but I really like the slim fit of this shirt. The length is perfect.

    Worn with the jeans and sneakers though, the outfit makes you look short. Torso too long and legs too short. I don't think the shirt can be any shorter, so I'm not sure how you'd solve this problem. The front is better than the back. The tail is a little too rounded. Maybe different sneakers (ie. white AF1's) or leather shoes would help. The jeans themselves are too long.

    The shirt colour is nice. I think it would look great open necked (as you have it) tucked in with trousers for business casual, or with suit. But the solid colour looks a little formal for the jeans & sneakers look.
     


  4. mbc

    mbc Senior Member

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    One concern I have, however, is how would the darts look with a striped pattern?
    I have darts in a few of my striped shirts, and I think it looks fine.
     


  5. Jovan

    Jovan Banned for Good

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    I'm not a fan of darted back shirts... they give the effect of a woman's shirt to be honest. [​IMG]
     


  6. Etienne

    Etienne Distinguished Member

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    Pre-crash, we were discussing just how short a shirt could be so that it would look good untucked and will not come loose when tucked. Most felt that 30" (for my 5'9" height) would be ideal but I decided to experiment with 28".
    Impressive shirt. I might try the darts for my newt Jantzen try (as soon as I have the fit perfect, it is not yet).

    I tried 32" for my 6'4" height and it seems to work for me. Proportion-wise it is not very different from your choice.
     


  7. briancl

    briancl Distinguished Member

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    I have a Chan shirt almost identical to that in fit and fabric(is that a herringbone)? I was measured by Patrick on a tour, and he suggested darts and I suggested the shorter than usual length. I've had darts on other shirts that I didn't like, but the darts that Chan put in are very good. The length appears to be too short to stay tucked in, but it stays put.

    I think one thing that helps keep a shirt tucked in is the pants. The pants I usually wear have rubber running along the inside of the waistband to help grab the shirt fabric and keep it in place.
     


  8. whoopee

    whoopee Distinguished Member

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    Patrick can cut a great slim shirt without darts. I personally think it's a nicer look, though I don't wear them out.
     


  9. FIHTies

    FIHTies Distinguished Member

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    Nice shirt. What does a Chan shirt cost?
     


  10. Kent Wang

    Kent Wang Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    The pants I usually wear have rubber running along the inside of the waistband to help grab the shirt fabric and keep it in place.
    Yes, I have those on my Chan trousers. Very nice feature.
    Nice shirt, Kent. I think if you were going to wear it untucked exclusively, you could go shorter in the back.
    Do you think it will look strange to have a shirt that's an inch shorter in the back?
    Kind of funny, imho, that the shirt is a Chan copy of a Jantzen. I would think it would usually work the other way.
    The Jantzen I wore to the fitting with Chan was the best fitting shirt I had.
    Nice shirt. What does a Chan shirt cost?
    From the Shanghai shops it's RMB 680 (USD 85). But with buy two get one free the per shirt price becomes RMB 453 (USD 57).
     


  11. Mentos

    Mentos Senior Member

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    From the Shanghai shops it's RMB 680 (USD 85). But with buy two get one free the per shirt price becomes RMB 453 (USD 57).


    Chan shirts on the US tour start at about $100, I think, but they don't go too far up from there.
     


  12. royal618

    royal618 Senior Member

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    Does this Chan have a website or a point of contact?
     


  13. Mentos

    Mentos Senior Member

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    I actually think that the shirt should go about an inch longer. It looks good, but it teeters at the point where it looks like a shirt that you can't tuck in (even though you've said that in actuality, you can). And I think that a shirt has to look like it's untucked, rather than untuckable, because a shirt that you can't tuck is a fashion bastard.

    I recently attempted to pull off the same length idea and failed--the two shirts are probably 2 inches too short. It's a tough row to hoe, as they say.
     


  14. Jovan

    Jovan Banned for Good

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    Personally I've never seen much a visual disparity with shirts worn casually, untucked, at the regular length.
     


  15. thinman

    thinman Distinguished Member

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    Does this Chan have a website or a point of contact?
    http://wwchan.com/ Edit: Nice shirt Kent! I may start asking for darts in my Chan shirts. I *hate* the excess fabric ballooning out at the small of my back and it seems to happen on all my non-darted shirts.
     


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