WAYWRN: Classic Menswear, Casual Style

[Victor Elfo]

I'm not a tailor, but, in my opinion, the fit is subpar, it needs to be adjusted for a long back balance. Also, the trouser's silhouette could be wider.

 

[mrjester]

I'm not a tailor, but, in my opinion, the fit is subpar, it needs to be adjusted for a long back balance. Also, the trouser's silhouette could be wider.

Mine? Absolutely sub par. They'll be fixed soon. Aceow? No way. His are great. The line sucks but it can be fixed. And every pair he gets will be like that until they do.

 

[acecow]



Went to the tailor the other day. He agreed on posterior pelvic tilt. And a flat ass. If you have either, you get the creases. The flat rear screws with the rear rise and the pelvic tilt messes with the waistband, where it's designed to sit v where it sits.

Currently have the above trousers at someone considered the best tailor in Phoenix. If he does well, he gets the other 9 trousers I have. It's not cheap to fix either. Lowering the waistband, adjusting the rise, and some other stuff. It sucks.

I'm quite curious about this fit issue. I refuse to believe it's due to a flat butt, because mine is the opposite of flat. It may be a whole different reason altogether. If you find out, do let me know. It's not a big deal, but if there is a simple fix, I'd like to know about it.

I looked at the pictures, and yours is definitely more pronounced in the case of those gray trousers. Mine is quite minor and I can live with it.

 

[acecow]



I'm not a tailor, but, in my opinion, the fit is subpar, it needs to be adjusted for a long back balance. Also, the trouser's silhouette could be wider.

Are you talking about mrjester's fit or mine? I think neither are too slim, but there seems to be a similar issue with the bunching up at the thighs. Hopefully, mrjester's tailor will fix it and we'll know the reason for this.

 

[mrjester]

I'm quite curious about this fit issue. I refuse to believe it's due to a flat butt, because mine is the opposite of flat. It may be a whole different reason altogether. If you find out, do let me know. It's not a big deal, but if there is a simple fix, I'd like to know about it.

I looked at the pictures, and yours is definitely more pronounced in the case of those gray trousers. Mine is quite minor and I can live with it.

Well I have both. A flat arse and posterior pelvic tilt. The pelvic tilt is remedied by the waist band, as far as I can tell. Take your pants and pull them up in the back and it's gone. But you have to mess with the entire pair of pants to get it to sit right like that and not look weird. The tailor said it may take more than one trip. I'll post Saturday.

Back to awesome fits? You won't see many from me now. They're all board shorts.

eta: You are right.. neither are too slim. They're both great. They may LOOK slimmer than they should be due to the weird crease "poofing" out the sides. But they're not.

 

[Holdfast]

I's definitely due to our postures. I'm no tailor, but I can tell you what's "wrong" musculoskeletally/biomechanically, and it's logical that this would create the fit issues shown.

An orthopod (or an OT or physio) will correct me on the details; I'm relying on my memory of med school for the details below:

Imagine standing sideways and drawing a vertical line down through ears, shoulders, hips, knees and feet (there are specific anatomical reference points within these elements, but I can't remember them). You could actually do this on your side-photo upthread with some simple editing software. In ideal posture, all these elements will fall down the vertical line. In our postures, the pelvis is tilted, pushing hips forward relative to the vertical line, and creating a relatively large curvature in the lower spine, enlarging the hollow in our backs. I bet you often find jackets "kick" in there, even when fitting well from the front, and I also bet that even slim-fit RTW shirts will tend to have excess material at the back while fitting well from the front.

There are other compensatory changes e.g shoulder will be hunched forward and head pushes forward too (think about the effects of that on your jacket fit, and why certain brands will work better than others with that shape, and what alterations you tend to need). The reasons for these musculoskeletal changes are individual, but IIRC common reasons is either a predisposition to a lumbar lordosis or relatively weak hip extensors and erector spinae muscles. I know that my posture got a bit better after getting into the habit of doing some daily stretching exercises, for example. Not a night & day difference, but enough to be noticeable. But then again, my posture is worse that yours so I notice the improvement more too.

Somehow tailors can work around these problems, both with jackets and trousers, hiding the deviations from view, or at least minimising them. RTW items can't do this, without major alterations (personally, I don't think it's worth it). Even MTM trousers are a major improvement on most RTW in this regard though, which leads me to think it's probably done by playing with the relative front & rear rises somehow. But on that, I'm just guessing.

 

[mrjester]

I think you're right on a lot of that.

As far as the rises, that can be messed with and adjusted but taking in the rear rise fixes some, not all. If perfect is '10' and where we're at at the start (my pants fit) is '2', adjusting the rear rise gets it to 4. Adjusting the waistband in the rear gets it to 7. There's other things you can do to get it to an 8 but it won't ever be a 9 or 10 for MTM or OTR with the angle I stand at. Sucks but that is life.

Adjusting the rises.. eg if you took out the front and took in the back, it won't 'tilt' anything, it'll just make the front deeper for no reason (giving you a FUPA appearance) and the rear will fix some of it but if you have a 'normal person ass', it also gives you a wedgie. You have to mess with the waistband as well as the rise and seat.

Check this out if you've got the time..

 

[Betelgeuse]

Tieless Monday!

 

[Tirailleur1]

great fit, Tril. what color are the pants?

The dreaded Navy

 

[JapanAlex01]

 

[Victor Elfo]

Mine? Absolutely sub par. They'll be fixed soon. Aceow? No way. His are great. The line sucks but it can be fixed. And every pair he gets will be like that until they do.

Both, but I's referring to yours in my comment. I think that his suffers from his posture issue, but either way it should be accounted in the trousers fit, so his are also subpar on fit.

 

[mrjester]

Well thank you for posting that they are subpar after I post a picture pointing out the subpar fit and the fixes for the various issues.

 

[Tirailleur1]

I don't even mind the high-water trousers.

We are witnessing history here people.

 

[Victor Elfo]

Despite of agreeing if you about the subpar fit of your trousers, I also provided another diagnosis, because I do think that yours were not right ("lowering the waistband, adjusting the rise, and some other stuff"). So, my comment was clearly not stating the obvious...

 

[mrjester]

I guess we'll see. I get them back from the tailor Saturday (that's if there's no other work to be done).

As far as the width of the pants, I believe they're great. I wouldn't have the knees or opening any wider, if that's what you meant by a wider shilouette. I'm sticking with the idea that the look is altered by the warped upper-area and will be much better once that is fixed.