Watch advice

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by PHV, Oct 1, 2004.

  1. Fashionslave

    Fashionslave Senior member

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    You might want to look into Jean Marcel,an up and coming Swiss company that has gorgeous timepieces right in your price range.They happen to make an extremely nice tonneau shape.It seems all the watch aficianado magazines rate Jean Marcels quite highly for quality,style,and value.
     
  2. DandySF

    DandySF Senior member

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    The Tiffany designs have an appealing aesthetic. Plus, you won't see them hawked in every mall and magazine. Â This one, from the Mark collection, is in your price range, about $2,250. Â Â [​IMG]
     
  3. prinseugen

    prinseugen Well-Known Member

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    For the price of many new high-end battery operated watches, you could own a used Jaeger leCoultre Reverso--there are several reputable outfits on the web, which will offer you proper certificates of authenticity.

    Regards,

    Jack
     
  4. PHV

    PHV Senior member

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    Can someone give me a link to that Jaeger? That name seems to be quite well respected here.

    I know very little about watches... the only beautiful watches I'm farmiliar with is Cartier, since my father, mother and various relatives own that brand... for some reason which I can only conclude is coincidence. My one grand father loves Omega, but as I said, I've never found them appealing.

    That Tiffany is beautiful. I will certainly consider it.

    How would you rate that in comparrison to a S/S Cartier Panther? I have a gold/ss panther right now, and am considering getting a SS one as well. To me it is the epitome of the understated, classically beautiful watch.

    Since I know so little, all I go on are aesthetics and perceived quality (I used to think Armani and Gucci were the best you could buy, like many people, and as a result own way too much of it which could have gone towards more tasteful brands).

    So please, what are the advantages of Cartier and Tiffany (jewlerers) vs a true watch maker?

    Thanks guys.
     
  5. prinseugen

    prinseugen Well-Known Member

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  6. rsp1

    rsp1 Senior member

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    I would say the difference between cartier/tiffany and jaegar/VC/IWC/PP/etc is the difference between gucci/prada shoes and santoni/lobb/greene ones. The first group is more well known (because of marketing), but the connoseurs know where the real quality lies. To use shoes again, omega/tag are the equivalent of allen edmonds (good values, but not handmade and relatively high volume) and I would compare Rolex to Ferragamo.

    Watchingmaking is a mix of art as well as engineering, which is what makes most collectors so enamored with them. The key to a good watch is the movement. While there are hundreds of watch brands, there are VERY few makers of movements. The biggest maker - ETA (which is owned by swatch group, who also owns Omega) supplies movements to an overwhelming majority of "top-shelf" watchmakers (Valjoux, Citizen and Seiko also participate in this market).

    The upper eschelon of watchmakers includes those who make all of their watch components in-house, in Europe (switzerland typically, but also germany and italy). These companies include Patek Philip (but not IWC), Jaegar Lecoutre, Vacheron, Audemar Piguet, A Lange, Zenith, Omega (but only because its parent also owns ETA) and Rolex (but only recently - Zenith used to make the movements used in the Daytona). Some companies (like Breitling) purchase generic movements, but in fairness heavily modify them before use.

    Most people would be surprised to learn that Rolex is actually a volume leader in watches, making more than 100,000 units per year (I tried to find the site where I picked up this stat, but can't find it). Other companies above make only a fraction of that volume.

    Please note, I am by no means an expert and picked up watches as a hobby very recently.

    Regards.

    EDIT: I don't think that Jaeger looks nearly as good in SS as it would with a leather bracelet
     
  7. Ranjeev

    Ranjeev Senior member

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    What's the word on Baume et Mercier and Oris watches? Couple of nice models of each out there that I am thinking about purchasing in the summer. I like the looks but I have no idea of the quality.
     
  8. rsp1

    rsp1 Senior member

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    I can't really comment on those 2 brands other than to say I believe that Oris is the higher quality of them and that neither makes their own movements (Oris uses ETA for sure; however, that in and of itself doesn't make it a poor watch, naturally). I do like the look of the tonneau shaped Oris. Here are 2 interesting articles and a watch forum link http://www.timezone.com/library/wwat...68591017665598 http://www.timezone.com/library....9062500 (this is the one i was looking for on watch makes / volume / etc). Rolex' volume will shock you. http://forums.timezone.com/?forumId=tzclassic Forum lists.
     
  9. VMan

    VMan Senior member

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    I've heard that Oris watches are very good for the money. Nice, quality watch, and not as 'showy' as some of the other brands in that price bracket.

    Also, some of the sport watch designs are very classic. I recall some field watches in particular.
     
  10. Ranjeev

    Ranjeev Senior member

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  11. PHV

    PHV Senior member

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    I'm assuming that watch only has one face? That is a beautiful watch. I will definately consider it. However, I'd like to know how much something like movement really matters. With the hand stiching in high end suit you can feel the difference, but a watch to me is mostly looks, and I value solid construction. What's the big deal with superior movement? I've worn my dad's Patek a few times, a very exclusive watch, and it doesn't invoke any different feelings of quality than my cartier, which cost far less, and based on what I'm hearing here, is of much lesser quality. So, what really is the difference if you aren't a collector or watch enthusiast?
     
  12. rsp1

    rsp1 Senior member

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    I don't think there are hard and fast rules regarding matching watch face/band colors to suits like there are with belts/shoes. However, I think that a white face is definitely more common in business. I like the look of white face/stainless steel body/brown leather band together - this is my daily work wear watch. If you go with a black face, you should consider a black band. If you're considering a gold bezel, I think that a black band is much more formal looking than gold and brown, which seems more casual to me. Regarding the movement, how much you care is a matter of personal preference - just like people in this forum value clothes highly, watch collectors value certain mechanical aspects and intricacies of their craft. Where movements really begin to matter is when complications are added. A complication is the technical term for such features as chronographs, day/date/calendar, moon phase, etc. To get an idea of what I'm talking about, flip through some of the Ulysse Nardin watches (esp. Michelangelo, Skeleton, San Marco, Hourstriker). http://www.pacifictime.com/ulysse-....hes.htm
     
  13. kidkim2

    kidkim2 Senior member

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    What's the difference between Bach and Telemann? Johnny Hartman and Vaughn Monroe? St. Emilion and Vino di Tavola?
     
  14. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

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    I believe Breitling uses ETA movements which are heavily modified, but I think the quality is more or less the same as the higher end watches such as IWC, etc... I've owned some Zenith, IWC, etc... watches as well as several Breitlings, and at least in terms of the accuracy they seem very comparable. Durability I'm not sure about, as I've owned them for only about 5-7 years but all of them are running great as of right now.
     
  15. PHV

    PHV Senior member

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    Simple... people care about Bach and not Telemann .
     

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