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Waistcoats

32-20

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I'm thinking of getting a three piece suit made, but I know very little about waistcoats.
Do they have their own canvas? Are lapels associated with a particular style; are they ever functional, or are they purely vestigial?
And more generally speaking, what should I look out for?
 

add911_11

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In a nutshell, waistcoat can be either double breasted or single breasted.

A waistcoat can have hair canvass when they are with or without lapel. A canvassed lapel waistcoat will have a nicer roll, a canvassed simple waistcoat has a little benefit.

Most often you have to ask the cutter to put canvass into the waistcoat, dont assume they will automatically (even at top end level).
 

GBR

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Interesting AD911, did one of your suits have a canvassed waist coat, can't remember. Have you had any more suits made of late, your illustrated histories were very interesting both in your approach and to see the tailors at work.
 

Farhad19620

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Interesting that I found this topic, I love waistcoats and I have about a dozen waistcoats in different Tweeds and fabrics, I wear the mostly casually with any jacket on top, I have a question for the experts, do I have to leave the last bottom button undone on the waistcoat or is it permissible to button all the way down?
 

Lord Mulberry

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They can look good but I would never wear one being a bit portly; I'd look like the station master seeing off the trains. A few of my frinds wear them but they are generally made of the same material their suits are made from. The biggest advice I can give is to stay away from the novelty ones.
 

marcodalondra

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In a nutshell, waistcoat can be either double breasted or single breasted.

A waistcoat can have hair canvass when they are with or without lapel. A canvassed lapel waistcoat will have a nicer roll, a canvassed simple waistcoat has a little benefit.

Most often you have to ask the cutter to put canvass into the waistcoat, dont assume they will automatically (even at top end level).


Interesting observation as all the waistcoat with lapels I have seen in pictures and in person, from Historical Hawes & Curtis to Scholte's, have the lapels as separate pieces, sew on flat, and to me this always made sense: You would not want extra lapel roll bulk under the jacket.
 

add911_11

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Interesting observation as all the waistcoat with lapels I have seen in pictures and in person, from Historical Hawes & Curtis to Scholte's, have the lapels as separate pieces, sew on flat, and to me this always made sense: You would not want extra lapel roll bulk under the jacket.


Actually the roll has lots to do with the Ironing, a little roll on the waistcoat adds a nice touch. I personally will ask my local tailor to canvass the lapel waistcoat.


Interesting that I found this topic, I love waistcoats and I have about a dozen waistcoats in different Tweeds and fabrics, I wear the mostly casually with any jacket on top, I have a question for the experts, do I have to leave the last bottom button undone on the waistcoat or is it permissible to button all the way down?


Check the recent article in Gentleman 's Gazette on waistcoat.

I personally close all buttons except when the last buttonhole is sew on the waist tip.

All buttons on the front for me.
 
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marcodalondra

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Actually the roll has lots to do with the Ironing, a little roll on the waistcoat adds a nice touch. I personally will ask my local tailor to canvass the lapel waistcoat.
Check the recent article in Gentleman 's Gazette on waistcoat.

I personally close all buttons except when the last buttonhole is sew on the waist tip.

All buttons on the front for me.


The examples I am talking about do not allow ironing a roll: the lapel is attached flat to the waistcoat quarters
 

add911_11

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The examples I am talking about do not allow ironing a roll: the lapel is attached flat to the waistcoat quarters


I have one made with SR tailors in that way. I personally prefer the lapel and the waistcoat to be cut as one piece.

I see in the maintenance aspect it will be easier to just have the roll attached as a flat piece.

You ever tried a canvassed lapel waistcoat?
 

Farhad19620

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Actually the roll has lots to do with the Ironing, a little roll on the waistcoat adds a nice touch. I personally will ask my local tailor to canvass the lapel waistcoat.
Check the recent article in Gentleman 's Gazette on waistcoat.

I personally close all buttons except when the last buttonhole is sew on the waist tip.

All buttons on the front for me.


Thank you sir that is what I like to hear! from now on all the way buttoned for me too! It also looks better.
I will have a read later as my server at work does not allow me to access this site!
 

marcodalondra

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You ever tried a canvassed lapel waistcoat?


The examples I am talking about and that are part of my orders with my tailor, has a linen canvassed lapel flat attached, to give it a minimum of rigidity.

As I said, I would not like a rolling waistcoat lapel, cut as one piece as for jackets, because of the extra volume under the jacket
 

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